Petal Skirts

23 Jun Petal Skirts

There’s nothing better than a spontaneous afternoon of shopping and tea with friends. Several weeks ago I had the pleasure to do just that in Charleston with my dear friend and literary publicist Kathie, and my partner in crime, Julie.

Kathie wanted to shop which gave Julie and me a legitimate reason to be in the retail stores on King Street. In our presentations, Julie and I often discuss the etiquette of  Snoop Shopping which in polite society should be referred to as Inspiration Shopping.

I draw much of my sewing inspiration from Ready-to-Wear clothing and have become quite adept at sneaking a quick photo of garments that catch my eye. (Always silence your telephone.) Upon seeing the tiered, scalloped skirt at J McLaughlin, I knew I must make one. I quickly took a photo and scribbled a note that the skirt appeared to be sewn in a lightweight stretch pique.

I’ve now made three:  one double and two triple-tiered skirts.

I made the two-tiered skirt first trying to comprehend the construction method based on my one photo and the website images. I’ve got it figured out now 😊

Several online tutorials exist on adding a scalloped edge to a hem.  This is done by adding a facing. All you need to create the facing are elementary math skills, marking tools, and a compass or glass.

DESIGNING THE TEMPLATE

• Measure the finished width of your skirt. My skirt is 35”
• Decide how many scallops you’d like. I have chosen 10 – five in front and five in back.
• Divide the finished width of by the number of scallops and draw accordingly.
• 10 into 35 = a 3.5 inch scallop.

MAKING THE TEMPLATE:

• Cut a 3” piece of interfacing slightly longer than needed to make your template. I made a template for one side of the skirt which can be used on both the front and back.
• First  mark the seam allowances, then measure at 3 ½” intervals.
• Next  mark the midpoint of each scallop
• With a compass or a round object, draw in the scallop.

MAKING THE FACING:

1. Place the template on the fold of the fabric and cut the facing.
2. Interface with a very lightweight interfacing.
3. Transfer the markings.
4. Finish the upper edge with a serger or by turning under.

ATTACH THE FACING:

1. Your skirt length should be predetermined and finished with the exception of the facing.
2. Stitch the side seams of the facing together.
3. Attach right sides together  placing the side seam of the facing to the side seam with the zipper on the skirt.
4. Stitch along markings.
5. Cut along stitching.

   5. Turn and hem.

SKIRT NUMBER 1:

For the pink and white seersucker skirt I  underlined the seersucker with batiste, cut and sewed two layers of fabric, and attached the facing, then lined the skirt.

It was a little bulky and I could not comfortably add a third layer. I thought back to a Susan Khalje class I took where I made a tiered ruffled dress and took a different approach for the next two.

SKIRTS TWO AND THREE:

For the three-tiered skirts, I created a skirt base using the skirt pattern pieces. Next I attached lined scalloped layers to the skirt base cut from my fashion fabric.

You can use the facing technique but lined tiers do not reveal a hem stitch and they lie nice and flat against the skirt.

 

1. Cut the pattern back and front pieces.
2. Determine where to place your layers and mark the cutting points for your layers. It’s important for the top of each layer to be covered by the bottom of another layer. I added an extra two inches to the top of each tier to overlap the tiers.
3. Once marked, cut separate pattern pieces for each tier and place on the fold of your fashion fabric and lining.

The tiers on both skirts are lined with a lightweight batiste.

AFTER CUTTING:

1. Stitch the skirt base and the tiers and the lining together on one side. (side without the zipper)
2. Pin lining and fashion fabric right sides together.
3. Lay template along lower edge and mark the scallop.
4. Stitch along stitching line.

5.  Trim and turn6.  Stitch top together and finish seam ( shown above ).   I use a serger.

PLACING TIERS ON SKIRT:

1. Match  the notches for accurate placement.
2. Starting with the bottom tier, pin the tiers to the skirt base and stitch on top of the skirt.
3. After placing all of the tiers, starting at the top, stitch the sides of the skirt piece to secure the tiers.
4. You will now treat your tiered fabric as  as a single piece of fabric. Finish the skirt following the pattern manufacturer’s instructions.

TIPS:

• This technique can be applied to nearly any classic straight, A-line or pencil skirt pattern.
• Use an invisible zipper as not to detract from the lovely petals you’ve just created.
• I place the first row of scallops at the lower hip which is where the silhouette straightens. This way I only needed one template for all of the tiers.
• Since the skirts are fitted I line them with a polyester, silk or rayon lining.
• If you prefer to wear tops on the outside of the skirt, you may prefer only two rows of scallops.
  

The floral skirt, is sewn in Jennifer Paganelli’s ‘Abby in Citrine’ from the St. John collection

and the navy skirt is sewn in stretch cotton from Mood Fabrics. (Top is the Nettie Bodysuit by Closet Case Patterns)

By attaching lined tiers to the skirt base, there are never more that two layers of fabric stitched together no matter how many tiers you choose.

I’m glad I took the time for this one! I’ll also be filming this technique in Cleveland for It’s Sew Easy next month. My explanation may have not come across as easy, but it is!

Until soon. 🙂