Lilly Pulitzer Inspired Pants

22 Apr Lilly Pulitzer Inspired Pants

There’s no time like Springtime to channel my inner Lilly Pulitzer, and Mood Fabrics’ lime green and white cotton stretch sateen was just what I needed to get in the groove.

Stretch cotton sateen climbed to the top of my preferred fabrics for everyday dressing the first time I used it. It’s comfortable, durable, available in different weights, and my stretch sateen stash continues to grow. Check out Mood’s stash here.

Sewing pants has never been my favorite. They’re easy to sew but I never know about the fit. Last summer I sewed a pair of shorts using McCall’s 6930. (blogged here) which fit so nicely, I vowed to make more.

The shaped waistband, pockets, back zip, flat front fit and fit through the hips passed muster, and the pattern miraculously required NO fitting adjustments. However, to get the look I wanted with these pants I made three pattern alterations.

1. WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTION

The first change was in the waistband band construction. I made this same alteration the first time around as well. By eliminating the waistband tab, I could place the zipper at the top of the waistband, and zip to the top of the waistband rather than using a hook and eye.  For more information, I detailed the steps in last year’s post on the pattern (here).

   2. ADDITIONAL LENGTH TO PANT LEG

The pant length in the pattern is more of a Capri Length, leading me to add four inches to the bottom of the front and back leg pattern pieces to get the ankle length.

3.  TAPERING THE LEG

This alteration was a little tricker but worth the several fittings it took to get the fit just right. Although the pattern description is a tapered pant, the fit is relaxed.  I wanted a slimmer fit and gained the result through process of elimination.

In the photo below the right leg is basted along the outer seam with a red thread. The back leg is substantially wider than the front. Since my fabric is a stretch fabric, I did not need the extra width in the back and completely eliminated it.

The tapering began just above the lower edge of the pocket, and I tapered the fit down to the ankle until I had a 12″ width (6″ width on front, 6″ width on back).

Turning the pants right side out, you can compare the difference.

I concluded there is no scientific method to achieve the fit since it really depends on the stretch of the fabric, but I’m pleased with the result from every angle.

The combination of fabric and fit give the pants a versatile style perfect for daytime, nighttime or beach time 😉

I wholeheartedly agree that the pattern is just the starting point and the customization is up to the sewist, but a well-drafted pattern makes all the difference in the result.

Many thanks to Mood Fabrics for the cheerful fabric – I’m feeling brighter by the minute!

Until soon 😊