01 Mar The French Jacket Experience: Julie Starr
QUESTION: What’s effortlessly chic, always appropriate and lasts forever?
ANSWER: The French Jacket: It’s a Classic.
I’ve made one French Jacket six years and as stated in the last post, it’s time for another. My friend Julie Starr has made six and they are all stunning. Julie, Dorcas and other dedicated sewists have mastered creating these couture garments requiring 100+hours to assemble. I’ve watched several of Julie’s jackets come together and though I can’t say she makes it look easy, I will say the process is intriguing.
Over the next several months, I’ll be sharing French Jacket posts created by my sewing friends and I’m beginning with Julie’s latest. Enjoy!
Each January, Dorcas Ross from Lonestar Couture and I enjoy a long distance sew-along to make Classic French jackets together. One of the most highly anticipated aspects of our projects is selecting the materials each of us will use. Sometimes I start with a particular boucle and some years I’ve stashed away a beautiful lining and take my design inspiration from the silk’s colors and pattern.
This year’s jacket began in a new way; it started with the trim. The luxurious cranberry braid was sent to me from Poland by Maja Żróbecka, whom I “met” last year on Instagram through our shared love of the classic French jacket style. Maja had recently founded her custom-made RTW company, MiaGiacca Tweed Jackets and I had admired her lovely work.
A military style trim layout was one I’d always wanted to try and since Maja’s generous gift included nine yards of braid, this was the perfect opportunity. Complementary fancy ribbon boucle was sourced from trusty Linton Tweeds and coordinating impressionistic floral silk and fancy buttons were purchased from Etsy shops.
One new feature on this year’s jacket is a custom Riri two-way zipper closure. After wearing it a few times I’ve decided I may never go back to hooks! Installing it was no more time consuming than stitching on ten or twelve little hooks and the wearing flexibility it provides is one of my favorite parts of this jacket. The only additional precaution advised when inserting a zipper into loosely woven fabric is reinforcing the center front edges with strips of silk organza selvedge. This is a wonderful couture tip to use any time you are working with edges that could stand a little extra support. The zipper was inserted by hand using a backstitch for extra security, sandwiching it between the boucle and the lining.
After pinning on a few different trim arrangements for consideration I settled on three evenly spaced horizontal rows. Folding each double row to a point at the outer tip provided a logical place to feature pearl buttons, with four additional on each sleeve vent. Center front raw edges were covered by perimeter trim.
Stitching chain at the hem to balance the weighty trim and buttons and adding my personalized label always makes for a satisfying ending to this lengthy project.
As fate would have it, I stitched the last button onto my jacket the day we learned of the death of Karl Lagerfeld, the enigmatic and iconic genius who brilliantly revived the Chanel brand after the passing of Coco Chanel. Anna
Wintour described him as a one-man superbrand, as distinctive as the Chanel suit he imbued with a second life.
So this one’s for you, Karl. Thank you for the decades of beauty and inspiration you’ve brought into our world.
Don’t miss Julie’s French Jacket article in the ASG Newsletter HERE.
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In closing, Julie and I express our deepest gratitude for your overwhelming response to our new book, A Stylish Guide to Classic Sewing! It became an Amazon best-seller on the day of it’s announcement and remains the #1 New Release in category.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Karen Helm
Posted at 07:29h, 01 MarchGreat post, Sarah and Julie! So appreciate seeing the details and hearing your thought process on this gorgeous jacket, Julie.
Julie Starr
Posted at 13:36h, 01 MarchThank you, Karen. This one had been brewing in my head for a long time!
Shannon Patrick
Posted at 08:09h, 01 MarchIn so many ways, a fantastic piece!
Julie Starr
Posted at 13:37h, 01 MarchA new French jacket is always the highlight of my sewing year! Thanks, Shannon.
Bernadette Dizzine
Posted at 08:28h, 01 MarchBeautiful Jacket! Is there ANY way to make this in less than 100 hours???
Julie Starr
Posted at 13:46h, 01 MarchThreads Magazine published an article back in 2006 called “Shortcuts to a Designer Jacket”. Machine stitching replaced hand stitching wherever possible. Not sure if you can track it down but I hope that helps. Thank you, Bernadette.
Bonnie Wheaton
Posted at 14:22h, 05 MarchThe article is in Threads #128, Dec ’06/Jan.’07. The blurb says 15 hours, but that must be after the many hours of creating a muslin!
Julie Starr
Posted at 21:58h, 06 MarchI’m sure you’re right about that, Bonnie! Thanks very much for tracking it down and sharing the issue number.
Ellen Sherman
Posted at 08:34h, 01 MarchBeautiful jacket, looks perfect. I must disagree about Langerfeld though. An example of a superior talent who degrades others with harmful comments. He is part of the reason why women who aren’t model size feel inferior.
Julie Starr
Posted at 13:50h, 01 MarchThanks, Ellen. I am of the mind that hurtful opinions should always be kept to oneself, however I do respect him for his brilliant contributions to the design world.
Beth Kauffman
Posted at 08:48h, 01 MarchI love looking at French Jackets but for someone with my body shape, I can only imagine dumpy/lumpy.
I WANT to do that work because I find those construction techniques fascinating BUT I don’t want to waste 70-100 hours and then have a wadder to throw into the pile.
Do you have any pattern suggestions for someone who is not rail thin that I could consider to produce a jacket appropriate for someone who is not 120 lbs?
BARBARA WILLIAMS
Posted at 10:17h, 01 MarchHi Beth, I am in the same boat as you. 68 years old, 170 lbs. I can no longer wear the trim fitting, shorter jackets. because I carry most of my extra weight around the middle. I have gone to a longer, more simplified jacket, usually without a collar and usually straight without princess seams. You have just caused me to think a little more about how to incorporate some of the French jacket techniques into a more plain, longer jacket. Julie’s jacket is fabulous, but no way could I wear it with the trim that seems to look more bulky. So a more streamlined trim for me. I have seen some lovely braid made from threads pulled from the fabric, or the selvedge that has been fringed. The buttons on Julie’s jacket are wonderful and don’t think they would be an issue for us fluffy girls. For a longer jacket, I think I would eliminate the channel stitching of the lining to the jacket pieces and even the chain at the hem. So to sum up my thoughts, (sorry I am not Sarah) I would go with a longer, simple jacket that came to the bottom of the bum, or longer, no channel stitching lining to boucle, a more streamlined trim, and the chain and buttons are personal preference. This would allow the use of lovely fabrics, trims, buttons, but do away with the short, unflattering look that a true French jacket might bring to fluffy girls. This is just my opinion, could not resist, hope you don’t mind. Barb
Elizabeth Kauffman
Posted at 13:25h, 01 MarchThanks, Barbara. I’ve never thought myself fluffy but it sounds so much nicer than lumpy! Haha.
I will look for a longer design with no lapels and see if I can incorporate some tricks into that new design.
Laura Casey
Posted at 15:57h, 03 MarchTo Beth and Barb…I’m also in the same boat….I’m 70 almost 71…and sew all my clothing…..I believe we can all wear a chanel styled jacket….It IS about proportion and fit….I’m not sure either of you (and I don’t even know you) need a jacket below your bum….especially if you’re short. Take a deep breath and think about your best attributes…for me it’s my shoulders, height (5’7″) and dimples….so I try to emphasize the top of any outfit…no collar (don’t want to emphasize my cute double chin) but princess seams are terrific on me…because I have more seams to get the fit just right. Every side seam flips out a bit just at the waist so it gives me the illusion of a waist……a boxy fit is not for me. And if I ever get around to making this tour de force….my trim will run right up the front on both sides of the jacket. for a more slimming look. The article that Jullie Starr was talking about is terrific, note the curved out side seams in the article along with where the trim is placed…it’s made for us! Remember we were all young once ……good luck, LAURA
Diane M
Posted at 14:53h, 07 MarchI have the same figure attributes you do, but find a short jacket properly fitted makes me look slimmer than a long one trying to cover everything up. The important words in that sentence are properly fitted. Princess seams are so helpful with that. We each have our preferences though, and isn’t it great that we can pursue them.
Julie Starr
Posted at 13:58h, 01 MarchBeth, I think it’s less about the specific pattern and more about proper fitting and proportion of the pattern you choose. If you take a look at Susan Khalje‘s Instagram account you’ll see workshop photos of this style jacket on women of every size, shape, weight and age. Each one is customized to enhance the woman’s best attributes and downplay the rest and every one of them looks stunning. That’s the beauty of couture sewing!
Elizabeth Kauffman
Posted at 15:07h, 01 MarchThanks, Julie. I will checkout Susan’s blog for inspiration.
Beth
April Bailey
Posted at 09:16h, 01 MarchThat jacket is everything I could ever hope to create. It’s perfect. Thank you for sharing your process.
Julie Starr
Posted at 14:00h, 01 MarchThank you , April!
Laura Casey
Posted at 09:31h, 01 MarchI’ve admired Julie’s jacket originally for the color…..but when the trim was added I fell in love with it! The level of detail is fascinating to me…..it inspires me for all my sewing. No probably not going to make one but gorgeous to see and read about the process…..both you and Julie are sparks to all my sewing…..and yes, can hardly wait for your new book…..Have ordered 2 one for me and my sister!
Julie Starr
Posted at 14:01h, 01 MarchYou are a gem in our sewing community, Laura! Thank you always for your support of our sewing adventures!
BARBARA WILLIAMS
Posted at 10:20h, 01 MarchWhat a lovely jacket. I am looking forward to these posts and the photos are great.
Julie Starr
Posted at 14:02h, 01 MarchThank you, Barbara. The photography part is more challenging to me than the sewing!
Patricia Pfeiffer
Posted at 10:41h, 01 MarchAny more hints or tips on the French style jacket in your new book? Where could I find more complete directions to make this style jacket? I bought a lovely blue wool blend boucle fabric a couple years ago with a coat in mind, but I think just a jacket is all I really need, and I have loved the idea of a Channel jacket forever. But I would like more detailed information on construction of this jacket.
Julie Starr
Posted at 14:03h, 01 MarchPatricia, if you follow the link in Sarah’s blog post to the ASG website you will find a detailed step-by-step article on making this style jacket.
Alania Sheeley
Posted at 12:07h, 01 MarchAbsolutely gorgeous. I have been gathering the items I need to make a Chanel-inspired suit. Last thing to do, decide on the trim. I have purchased yarns from Linton Tweed that coordinate with my fabric. Need to start experimenting with various ideas.
Julie Starr
Posted at 14:07h, 01 MarchThank you Alaina. Trim is always the hardest part for me, as it is really the make or break feature of the jacket. Crocheting, knitting or weaving braid from coordinating yarns is the optimal way to a designer look. I keep a Pinterest board full of Chanel jacket inspiration for trim and styling ideas but other than fringe, have not tackled making my own trim from yarns yet.
Julie Starr
Posted at 14:14h, 01 March(Sorry Alania! – auto correct!)
Mary Helen Crowe
Posted at 12:18h, 01 MarchWhat an absolutely lovely jacket! I love the idea of a 2-way zipper. I looked up Riri zippers and they come in 4,6,8. I guess these are different size teeth. Which one would you choose? I am planning my jacket and am not considering the zipper option.
Julie Starr
Posted at 14:12h, 01 MarchThank you, Mary Helen. I’m going to guess it is size 4 – here is the notation on my order from Pacific Trimming – RIRI M4 Two Way Zipper – Brass Teeth. I have found the two way zipper to be one of my favorite things about this jacket. It’s so nice and comfortable to be able to keep it zipped for several inches in the center but open at the neck and hem.
Lone Star Couture
Posted at 13:06h, 01 MarchGreat post, Sarah! Julie’s jacket is almost indescribable but you have broken it down into each beautiful element. My latest jacket, or actually coat, is having its inaugural debut today because we’re having a bit of a cold snap and I think it will be perfect. And I think you’ve committed yourself to making a #januaryjacket2020!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 08:06h, 02 MarchThank you, Dorcas! Your gorgeous jacket will be a hit no doubt😊 I am most definitely committing to a jacket and hopefully before January 2020!
Sharon
Posted at 14:24h, 01 MarchAs a young twenty-something in the early 70’s, go-go boots, hot pants and flower power, I was mesmorized by the Chanel Jacket. To me, it exuded class, confidence, intelligence, success and power. And it still dos to this day. Always and forever a classic. I noticed the zipper closure on Julie’s jacket and look forward to reading all about the entire process. Thanks for an exciting post.
Sharon
Julie Starr
Posted at 08:35h, 02 MarchHaha! Sounds like we had the same Chanel fascination back in the 70s, Sharon! The zipper is definitely one of the most exciting features of this jacket. Small change – big impact! Thanks for your comment.
Margaret edger
Posted at 19:00h, 01 MarchBeautiful Jacket
Julie Starr
Posted at 08:35h, 02 MarchThank you, Margaret!
Ember Flack
Posted at 19:30h, 01 MarchJulie,
I follow you on Instagram, always impressed. You are beautifully slim, and your fit on this jacket showcases your trim midriff. May I know how you arrived at this particular pattern and fit? Well done!
Julie Starr
Posted at 08:43h, 02 MarchEmber, Vogue 7975 is the jacket pattern Susan Khalje was using when I took my first workshop with her in 2014. I have used that same muslin for each of my jackets, since it was fit on me by Susan herself. I’ve adjusted the length a bit on a few and I switched out the Vogue sleeve for the one from Susan’s own classic French jacket pattern, which she released a few years ago, but the body of the jacket has remained the same. Thanks for your kind comment!
Lori
Posted at 22:19h, 01 MarchI am just so blown away with this stunning jacket, I love every bit of it and the fabric just really is gorgeous. Where did you get this lovely fabric? Amazing job.
Julie Starr
Posted at 08:45h, 02 MarchThank you very much, Lori. The fabric is from Linton Tweeds in the UK. Their website is user-friendly, the samples swatches are generously sized and inexpensive, and they ship quickly at a reasonable cost.
Maryellensews
Posted at 09:13h, 02 MarchThis jacket is just gorgeous Julie . I love the details & tips . I’ve gathered most of my supplies for my first attempt at a jacket .
Connie Murphy & I bought matching g fabric , I’m hoping to start this year 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yours is a great inspiration! Hope it’s chilly enough for you to bring to Tampa 😍
Julie Starr
Posted at 22:04h, 06 MarchThanks, MaryEllen. If you are referring to that exquisite blue boucle from Florence, lucky you! I’ll be sure and bring my jacket to Florida 👌🏻😊
Daisy Dianne Bromlow
Posted at 09:29h, 02 MarchABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS !!!
Julie Starr
Posted at 22:00h, 06 MarchThank you, Daisy!
Mary Lynn Cheely
Posted at 21:17h, 02 MarchYour jacket is exquisite and we’ve had some good weather for showing it off! Maybe I’ll see it passing In HT one day!
Julie Starr
Posted at 22:00h, 06 MarchHi Mary Lynn – you very well might. I always put on a jacket before I go in HT because they keep it so freezing cold!
Rebecca Evans
Posted at 21:41h, 07 MarchLove the Jacket and the buttons! Where did you obtain the buttons from?
Liselotte Johansson
Posted at 17:18h, 12 MarchThe jacket is beautiful. I was in Paris the summer of 2017. I bought a Chanel fabric. I have an idea to sew a jacket of the fabric but I havn´t got the time to do it yet.
Cheryl
Posted at 00:14h, 27 MarchCongratulations on such a beautiful jacket. I love the colours and the military look. Just one question could you advise the source for the Riri custom zipper please. I would love to try this, but my local website only has black available when my fabric is pink😕