11 Feb French Jacket Sewing in Palm Beach
Greetings from Palm Beach, an ideal location to “winter” 😊
I’m thrilled to be one of twelve students participating in Helen Haughey and Mary Funt’s debut French Jacket Class. Both Helen and Mary are experienced couture teachers, but this is the first class they have offered together.
While working on my second French Jacket in January, I became smitten with the project, but knew I had much to learn, so here I am, and am I fortunate.
In Day 1 of this very cordial and relaxed atmosphere, our objective was fitting. I know the importance of a good fit and it’s one of the reasons I love creating my clothes, but learning what’s behind the proper fit was enlightening.
Before Helen and Mary fitted our muslins, we looked at an adjusted pattern flat. Though the pattern had been adjusted for fit, the seams had not been trued, and the pattern did not work.
Mary explained the importance of symmetry in seams and pointed out the lack of symmetry in the seams in the above photo.
I thought about several occasions I had altered a muslin but had difficulty making the pieces fit together. While I adjusted the pattern to keep the grain straight, I’m not so sure I trued the seams.
Next we compared the armscyes of popular French Jacket patterns along with a Chanel armscye including Vogue 7975, Susan Khalje’s French Jacket pattern and Vogue 8804.  I found this fascinating. The armscye should be curved towards the back and resemble the inside of a  horseshoe.
Armscye Comparison
The  Vogue 7975 and the Susan Khalje patterns were similar in shape and size .
Below is Susan Khalje’s armscye compared to the Chanel armscye.
All of this information came into play when we tried on our muslins. Below, this student is making Vogue8804 which features a much larger armscye. The armscye required significant adjusting.
Below, the armscye has been fitted and the sleeve was redrafted to fit the new armscye.
Here I am being fitted by Mary. I made a new muslin based on the one I used for my last two jackets.. Fortunately it only needed a few small tweaks. My pattern is Vogue 7975.
You might think it’s time to cut and sew, right?
It’s not. After taking the muslin apart, we trace the muslin onto paper creating paper flats to check and true the seams, leading us back to the opening of class and my first technical photo.
This is not the sexy part of French Jacket Sewing, but it is the type of information that very few discover on their own or take the time to learn. Â Thank goodness for inspiring teachers!
Many thanks also to A Stylish Guide to Classic Sewing Gallery Member Andrea Birkan for making a box of Chanel inspired cookies for each of us!  Follow her gorgeous creations on Instagram.
Now, I think it’s time to celebrate a small victory 😊
Until soon!
Anne Stoye
Posted at 07:28h, 11 FebruaryThank you for this post. Fascinating to see the different armscye shapes. I’d love to see how you altered the sleeve to suit (similar before and after diagram would be perfect if possible) – or just a general explanation if photographs and diagrams aren’t possible..
Fabulous cookies too (what fun – and what a lot of work,- and it must seem a shame to eat them).
I look forward to hearing more about the rest of the course.
Anne
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:36h, 11 FebruaryThank you, Anne! I’ll try to post a diagram of the student’s before and after. Good suggestion.
I’ve eaten one cookie and other than the calories, I did not feel guilty😂
Cynthia Gilbreth
Posted at 07:49h, 11 FebruaryThis is so timely for me! I laid out the pattern pieces for Susan Khalje’s French Jacket yesterday but haven’t marked them yet. It would be good to show the pattern jacket fronts so we could see the difference between the two Vogue patterns. I know I have one of them but not sure which.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 08:31h, 11 FebruaryCynthia,
The fronts are similar but the backs are quite different. Vogue 7975 features a back with princess seams, while 8804 has a center back seams and small side inserts.
Two students are using the 8804 while the rest are sewing from 7975 or Susan Khalje’s pattern.
Julie Starr
Posted at 08:21h, 11 FebruaryThe technical part is absolutely fascinating – I’m thrilled for you that you’re there and can’t imagine how much you’ll have learned by the time you get to Shanel #5!! Enjoy your week and the camaraderie of all those wonderful ladies.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 08:27h, 11 FebruaryThank you, Julie! Can’t wait to share what we will learn today 😊 Shaping with ironwork. Mary demonstrated yesterday and I hope to video today.
MaryEllen Pendleton
Posted at 09:26h, 12 FebruaryI’m soooo interested in her ironwork
Terry Kretzmer
Posted at 08:42h, 11 FebruaryThanks for posting all this information. Sleeves, armseyes and their affect has interested me. Do you gals find that one works better than another to increase your mobility in the garment? I steer aware from making blouses with woven fabric because I like to have the fit looking great but I also don’t wish to feel restricted in my mobiltity. Do you feel the top is tight if you go to hug yourself?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 05:50h, 12 FebruaryHi Terry and thank you for your comment. The fit of these jackets should be snug but not tight 😉 Loose, droopy armscyes are unflattering and baggy sleeves add weight to the arm, but comfort is part of the fitting objective as well.
All of us checked for freedom of movement before proceeding to the next step, and by the time fitting was completed it didn’t matter which pattern was used!
LinB
Posted at 09:58h, 12 FebruaryIt is completely counterintuitive that, the closer/tighter/ higher an armsceye, the greater the mobility. You’d think that a great ol’ big batwing sleeve would give you complete range of motion — but it is very limiting.
Susan
Posted at 10:49h, 11 FebruaryReally fascinating information; how wonderful to be able to take part in the class. ( I think you might have circled the wrong comparison in the symmetry in seams photo – shouldn’t it be the seam to the left??)
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 05:53h, 12 FebruaryBoth are lacking symmetry, Susan! I circled only one to identify the problem but should have circled both😉
Gergana
Posted at 11:20h, 11 FebruaryWhy do you write “Chanel” with “s”? I can see that you have added correct tags for the article, so I am sure this is not a typo..
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:00h, 12 FebruaryGergana,
It’s intentional since Chanel is Very Very Protective of it’s name, and let’s face it…… my jacket isn’t a “Chanel” 😊
Meg McKinney
Posted at 11:27h, 11 FebruaryThis is amazing information. Thank you for sharing, and I am looking forward to more learning about these jackets.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:02h, 12 FebruaryMany thanks, Meg! I look forward to sharing more. Yesterday’s shaping and ironwork session were unbelievable – more soon😉
Melody Srygley
Posted at 11:33h, 11 FebruarySo interesting!
What are your toiles made of? (It looks like pre-marked grids, and strong/flexible.)
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:05h, 12 FebruaryMelody,
The toiles are made of muslin. In the featured photo, the student marked horizontal and vertical graininess on her pieces.
In my photos you see the thread traced stitching lines. It’s a process but worth the effort!
susanne reynolds
Posted at 13:03h, 11 FebruaryWhat does it mean to true a seam? Does it mean to cut the two pieces with the same curve measurements?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:09h, 12 FebruaryHi Susanne!
Truing a seam is the process of ensuring all of the seamlines match and work together after alterations. This link perfectly describes the process https://www.clothingpatterns101.com/making-sewing-patterns.html
Karen Helm
Posted at 13:09h, 11 FebruaryThanks for this great post, Sarah. Looking forward to following your progress through this class – and definitely thinking this class should be in my future agenda. Enjoy! (And aren’t those cookies the best?!)
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:12h, 12 FebruaryHave your ears been burning, Karen? We’ve mentioned your beautiful French jackets throughout class 😊 Mary and Helen bring a fresh perspective to couture sewing and though I’ve only been in two days of classes, I can highly recommend it!
Judy Pineda
Posted at 14:05h, 11 FebruaryThank you for sharing your discoveries from this class with us!! I really appreciate it!! That cookie reminds me of the jacket turned vest that Dorca made in January!😄
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:14h, 12 FebruaryHi Judy!
Andrea is known for her designer cookies and often shares them with classes. She loves pinks, but I agree that it resembles Dorcas’ vest 😊
Angela Marmaduke
Posted at 14:11h, 11 FebruaryYou are indeed fortunate! I would love to attend such a class, but it is simply not possible at this time in my life. Any classes I “attend” are online – but I have learned so much from them! Your post today was educational, thank you for the visuals about the armscye shape of different patterns. Keep up the posts – you have many envious readers!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:16h, 12 FebruaryAngela,
Online classes are certainly the next best thing, and I have learned so much from video classes.
I consider this class to be an investment and a luxury and know how lucky I am.
Jacqeline Fechner
Posted at 14:48h, 11 FebruaryThank you for sharing your experience ,delighted to learn all the info you’ve passed on .
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:17h, 12 FebruaryMy pleasure, Jacqeline ! More soon 😊
Rebecca Bagwell
Posted at 15:35h, 11 FebruaryLove the cookie!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:18h, 12 FebruaryHer cookies are really lovely, Becky! Wish you were here!
Vanessa
Posted at 15:37h, 11 FebruaryYour jacket is coming along great!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:19h, 12 FebruaryThank you Vanessa! Looking forward to sharing more 😊
Molly Hayden
Posted at 17:25h, 11 FebruaryFabulous information and pictures. Thank you so much for taking the time to share this with us. I must get on more mailing lists so I can attend a class (or 10) myself. Learning more vicariously through you every time I read one of your posts. Thank you!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:21h, 12 FebruaryMolly ~ So nice to hear from you. It’s all so worthwhile I must share! Many thanks 😊
MaryEllen Pendleton
Posted at 08:17h, 12 FebruarySarah – I so wish I had been able to join this class. But I’m so happy you are blogging about it .. Your descriptions make me feel I am sewing right next to you . Say hi to all the ladies . I had a great time there last week with Helen & Mary making my dressform ,moulage & sloper . Have a great time & enjoy ( especially Andreas cookies )
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 21:45h, 12 FebruaryI’d love to take the dress form class, Mary Ellen! Andrea’s cookies have put a couple of inches around my hips 😬
Jane Glenn
Posted at 16:15h, 12 FebruarySo grateful for your blogs – I’m learning a lot! And I have eaten Andrea’s cookies – you all are very lucky, indeed!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 21:47h, 12 FebruarySo nice to hear from you, Jane! Those cookies…………………….
Wanda Stephen
Posted at 00:20h, 13 FebruaryIt was a pleasure to read this communique of yours. Chanel-like jackets , particularly their construction has s high degree of interest for me. This article is the first I’ve seen that gives specific attention to the jacket’s armsyce.
Thank you. I look forward to your relevant articles.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:42h, 13 FebruaryThank you, Wanda! It was the first time anyone in the class, including experienced jacket makers had seen the armscye comparison as well.
The more knowledge one has,, the better decisions one makes…..😉
Linda L
Posted at 09:45h, 13 FebruaryThanks for sharing the information about the class. I can see that one can learn a lot about sewing a Chanel like jacket. Enjoy the rest of the time in class. Those cookies were adorable!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:05h, 16 FebruaryMy pleasure, Linda! The learning is non stop but quite enjoyable 😉
Janee Connor
Posted at 09:07h, 14 FebruaryHaving taken LoveCoutureSewing’s Inspired by Chanel class in Palm Springs last month, I’m really thrilled to hear about your experience with this class. Helen is one of my favorite people. The information on the shape of the armhole is very interesting. I own both of those Vogue patterns, have made one jacket for myself using 7975. We used 8804 in class – in my case just for the instructions, as my pattern came from the moulage done by Barbie McCormick for me at the start of the class. But I didn’t really look at the shape of the armhole, and that’s one of my chief fitting challenges. While in Palm Springs, I was delayed by a fall that resulted in two broken fingers – so I’m just now resuming work on the second half of my jacket. I will be sharing your journey vicariously as I finish it!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:10h, 16 FebruarySo sorry about those fingers, Janee – what an ordeal! . I think you’ll find it fascinating.to compare the pattern armscyes to your fitted muslin. I look forward to seeing your finished jacket – good luck!
Tee Xavier
Posted at 12:27h, 17 FebruaryThank you for posting about this class. Today I went back and re-read this post after reading Part 2. Could you give more detail on how you went about truing the seams? What did you have to do so that the side front and center front seams fit together without affecting the circumference of the jacket. Do you have any other photos of those changes?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:43h, 18 FebruaryHi Tee~
This was an example paper flat and not my pattern or anyone’s in the class. My muslin required little adjusting since it had been fitted in a previous class. We did not correct this flat in class, and since Mary & Helen fitted everyone individually I do not have photos. I’m sorry I cannot be more helpful! 😞
Mary Funt
Posted at 07:34h, 18 FebruarySarah forwarded your question to me. Truing the seams means to check that the length of seam lines on adjoining pattern pieces are the same so all will fit together properly. On the muslin fitting Sarah shows for Vogue 8804, the shoulders were too wide. I repositioned the shoulder seam for a more flattering look and also removed the extra width. In the case of the shoulders I wanted to make the jacket shoulder smaller. If you want to reposition the seam, without changing the circumference, whatever is taken off one seam gets added to the corresponding seam. Hope this helps. I can’t post diagrams in this reply but let me know if you need additional info. Thanks for your question.
Tee
Posted at 10:21h, 18 FebruaryHi Mary,
Thanks so much for your reply. I was curious about the seams in the body of the garment. Sarah had circled an area on the side front piece that is very curved under the bust and the center front that showed a much straighter seam. How should those seams be trued so the two pieces fit together? It is the second picture in Sarah’s post with the area circled in red.
Your class looked amazing. Will you offer any others this year?
Ramona Putnam
Posted at 14:10h, 06 MarchMany, many thanks for sharing your experience with us. It is so much fun to share in this from afar. A friend, Cari, was in that workshop as well. It’s a goal of mine, but sadly not this year. Your jacket turned out beautifully! Just lovely on you.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:15h, 06 MarchRamona ~ I loved meeting Cari! She is such a lovely person, not to mention talented 🙂
Andrea Charles
Posted at 03:52h, 11 MarchThe French jacket suits you. It is well designed and the armscye was a different treatment. Perfectly fitted jacket and great fabric. An equally designer cookies. It is fun sew and bake or the other way round. Whatever. It is two different world and you have perfectly mastered each skill.