03 Feb A Wearable Muslin – the Granville Shirt
While patience is a virtue, and a quality I attempt to pursue, I would not consider it to be my best attribute.
Many sewists truly enjoy using the PDF patterns. I too love the instant gratification of downloading a pattern, but assembling 30-page patterns is an event in and of itself. I wanted Sewaholic’s Granville Shirt enough to download the pattern late one evening. Online access to sewing patterns is certainly advantageous, especially for re-printing purposes, but printing and assembling a pattern adds additional responsibility and time. It takes patience for sure!
After assembling and cutting my pattern, I chose to skip out on the muslin process. I opted to sew a wearable muslin before cutting into the piece of silk I’ve envisioned from the Granville Shirt pattern.
The pinstripe fabric is a stretch woven shirting from my stash. I sewed contrasting front bands, the inner collar stand, under collar and inner cuffs with an Amy Butler remnant from the wedding party robes.
Wonderful reviews have surfaced since the Granville shirt was released and they are well deserved. The shaping is very flattering and the pattern is well-drafted, but patterns rarely fit me out of the envelope!
To quote Susan Khalje, a pattern is just the starting point. I made my typical adjustments by shortening the bodice and sleeve length, but I wish I had taken the time to make a true muslin.
Let’s look:
The top is a little tight in the bust. The length is a little short. The arms are a little long despite my initial alteration. I suppose I can turn up the cuff 🙂
There is bunching in the back,
and excess in the shoulder back area.
I like it regardless, but changes are in order before I cut the silk!
I don’t know if the lesson lies in knowing my level of patience or developing more patience. Either would have paid off with this project, but would it have led to the perfection I’m seeking? That’s an entirely different sewing issue ………..
Until soon 🙂
Ramona Walter
Posted at 23:45h, 03 FebruaryLove the contrast fabric on the shirt. Would like to see the silk when you get it done.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 23:54h, 04 FebruaryThank you, Ramona! There may be one more attempt before i cut the silk 🙂
Renee Gibson
Posted at 00:12h, 04 FebruaryYou have more patience than I do! Putting together a pattern download is a monumental task. The shirt looks good and the colors are great for you. Sometimes our satisfaction comes from the positive comments of others. The perfectionist in us says “Maybe it could be a little better!” Two thumbs up on this one!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 23:56h, 04 FebruaryMany thanks, Renee! Positive comments will carry me through many uncertanties, but it doesn’t feel quite right 😉
Renee Gibson
Posted at 01:24h, 05 FebruaryI am also working on a wearable muslin this week – so I can relate to your experience! I’m looking forward to seeing the follow up garments. Your descriptions of your “works in progress” are very helpful. I look forward to reading about future projects. Keep up the good work!
Andrea Birkan
Posted at 00:13h, 04 FebruaryI love the fabrics you have used. I am sure the silk version will be perfect. I am going to download the pattern and make it up.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 23:57h, 04 FebruaryThank you so much, Andrea! I too love the fabric combination – am more pleased with it than all else 🙂
Ally - Design Rewind Fashions
Posted at 00:16h, 04 FebruaryI don’t think I’ve mastered the art of patience for the level of PDF patterns. I tried a couple over the summer and got frustrated with the taping….and for some the skimpiness in directions. I must be an old fashion pattern kinda gal.
I do like the use of floral fabric for under the collar – what a fun surprise! Can’t wait to see the silk you have picked out for this project!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 23:58h, 04 FebruaryHi Ally! There may be one more blouse before I cute the silk 🙂 Many thanks for your comment.
justine
Posted at 00:24h, 04 FebruaryPrecisely the reason I don’t make PDF’S anymore. It is SO MUCH work just assembling that I’m exhausted before I even start the fitting process. But your top is definitely passable and very cute. Most people won’t notice those issues when you wear it. That said, the shoulders do seem a bit wide. I only notice because that is always my fitting problem, having narrow shoulders.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:00h, 05 FebruaryHi Justine,
I took over one inch off of the shoulders, but I have more work to do. The shirt is passable but I’m striving for more 😉
Julie Starr
Posted at 00:34h, 04 FebruaryFirst off, Lilly herself might have mistaken this for one of her own. What a wonderful way to use some of the robe trimmings. Your “muslin” looks infinitely wearable to my eyes, even if only worn unbuttoned as an overshirt. You’ll have worked out all the kinks for the silk, I’m sure. I guess I am one of that small minority who actually enjoys putting PDFs together. The only part I find tedious is trimming the borders and for that I use the paper cutter at the office. I do agree that Granville is drafted very small through the bust and shoulders and the sleeves are disproportionately long. I lucked out and only had to do a sway back adjustment and shorten the sleeves.
Virginia
Posted at 13:52h, 04 FebruaryJulie, I, too, enjoy putting the PDF patterns together! It is fun to see the pieces take form.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:02h, 05 FebruaryAh…… a paper cutter! Good advice 🙂
I don’t know if Lilly would mistake this for one of hers but I am pleased with the fabric combo. Many thanks for your comment!
Susan Konkin
Posted at 00:49h, 04 FebruaryLove your blog! I really enjoy it!! You inspire me to sew more..
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:03h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Susan!
Lori
Posted at 00:59h, 04 FebruaryI love your colors and pink looks so beautiful on you. I think it is a great starting point and really is so much better than most RTW shirts you would buy. Good luck on the changes.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:04h, 05 FebruaryThank you so much, Lori! I am pleased with the result of the color combo and you are right – the fit is no worse than RTW 😉
Sue Stoney
Posted at 01:04h, 04 FebruaryI am waiting for some cooler weather to make this shirt and had also planned a wearable muslin. In spite of the imperfections that you can see, the rest of us see a very cool shirt indeed!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:05h, 05 FebruaryThank you so much for your nice comment, ue!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:06h, 05 February…. and of course my comment should have said SUE!!
CarolinasCallin
Posted at 01:09h, 04 FebruaryWell, girlfriend…I don’t know about the fit issues, but that shirt is SO stinkin’ cute!!! I would SO order that right now! LOVE what you’ve done with the accent fabric, and your stripe is divine! Now if you could just make one a little larger – and you know I’m a bit taller than you, so longer…;)
Seriously, though…it’s a wonderful shirt! I know you’ll be happier once you’ve gotten the fit just right…but what an excellent start!
Well done!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:07h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Cheryl! Surely this top will fti s o m e b o d y!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:07h, 05 Februarywill FIT s o m e b o d y…….
Kathryn Kastama
Posted at 01:14h, 04 FebruaryWhether perfection or patience, the blouse is very appealing and fits better than any RTW might. Your pictures reveal a great teachable moment for fitting. The wrinkles point to the problem. Obviously the bust needs more room. The side seam shows wrinkle toward the hip which may mean give more room or shorten at the back center waist a tad. Unless you like a closer shoulder fit, I think it gives more movement room, putting less strain on your silk. I love the “robe” fabrics.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:10h, 05 FebruaryKathyryn,
Thank you for your helpful comment. Wrinkles tell the story, huh? The hips however are too flaired and I plan to reduce the finished measurement. I believe one more top is needed before I cut the silk 🙂
Deborah Penner
Posted at 01:22h, 04 FebruaryLove the color and the print under collar.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:10h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Deborah!
Art Attack
Posted at 01:32h, 04 FebruaryAdorable! Love the fabric combo. I know! Small in the bust for sure. And I had to do a swayback adjustment for that blousing above the waist but it was so worth the effort. Can’t wait to see the silk your using on your “real” one!
😀
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:11h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Dorcas! You would know as your top is perfect 😉 I may need to sew one more before cutting the silk!
Carolyn
Posted at 01:45h, 04 FebruarySo how did it wear all day? Did you notice any other changes you would make after wearing it? Love the fabric combo!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:14h, 05 FebruaryCarolyn, It was a little uncomfortable – a little work is needed for sure 🙂 I too am pleased with the fabric combo. Many thanks for your comment.
Marguerite
Posted at 02:07h, 04 FebruaryI can really relate to both the stress of piecing together a PDF pattern and making a muslin. It gets to a point where you say to yourself is either really necessary? I must have 50 shirt/blouse patterns in my stash. Some have been made up and others not. I think sometimes all I make are wearable muslins actually until like you there is a serious piece of fabric waiting in the wings. That being said, I think your shirt looks fine. The only fit issues that would bother me upon wearing would be some minor tightness around the bust and the longer sleeves. But, wait….you’re being too hard on yourself…RTW is 100 times worse isn’t it? Bottom line.its a beautiful flattering shirt that looks great on you!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:23h, 05 FebruaryLOL – it’s about like a RTW shirt for sure! Many thanks for your comment, Marguerite 🙂
Myra
Posted at 02:12h, 04 FebruaryBeautiful top Sarah! And I love a great share! Can’t wait to see what you do with the silk.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:23h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Myra. ‘m beginning to question whether it’s the right pattern for the silk ;(
chris Johnson
Posted at 02:38h, 04 FebruarySarah, I love your fabric choices for this pattern., and the shirt looks wonderful on you. Even when I tissue fit a pattern, I add an extra inch to the side seams, beginning in the underarm area. I think of myself as a triangle shape, so sometimes the extra is important, other times it’s not. Also, as I sew with a wider variety of fabrics since last years RTW Fast, I find different fabrics can simply fit differently and require either more or less fabric than a prior make.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:25h, 05 FebruaryThank you for your comment, Chris! I’m sure I’ll get the fit right and may try one more time before using the silk. You’re right about different fabrics affecting the fit 🙂
Diane A
Posted at 02:49h, 04 FebruarySarah, I think the shirt looks great overall. Your workmanship is so high quality as usual.
I, like you, am are real nut about fit. I would like to suggest that your bust dart be lowered a bit and shortened or possibly just shortened. It appears to come too far over the bust in the photos. The fit is a lot better than I have ever achieved on a first sew. I must say I am tempted to try this pattern after seeing your post. Thanks for sharing.
Diane
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:25h, 05 FebruaryThank you Diane and I plan to take your suggestion!
Linda
Posted at 03:18h, 04 FebruaryWell I am so sold on the stripes and the contrasting flowers I would overlook everything else!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:26h, 05 FebruaryMany thanks, linda! Everyone should have a friend like you 😉
arlene franks
Posted at 03:54h, 04 FebruaryI love her patterns …. I like the option of choosing from printed or pdf downloadable patterns.
OOOOOhh! I love the fabrics you have chosen and where you have used them!
BEAUTIFUL!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:27h, 05 FebruaryHi Arlene,
I was a little tongue in cheek on the PDFs. There is certainly a place for downloadable patterns. Many thanks for your nice comment!
Kate McIvor
Posted at 03:55h, 04 FebruaryThe shirt is lovely, but I agree with you about PDF patterns!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:28h, 05 FebruaryKate,
I was a little tongue in cheek on the PDFs. There is certainly a place for downloadable patterns. I just need to allow more time if I use one again 🙂
Ro
Posted at 04:13h, 04 FebruaryI love this just the way it is. ! It looks great lol
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:28h, 05 FebruaryEveryone needs a friend like you Ro! (and Linda :)) Thank you.
Barbara
Posted at 06:33h, 04 FebruaryA lovely shirt, very very wearable. Love the Amy Butler touches too.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 19:29h, 05 FebruaryThank you so much, Barbara!
Digs
Posted at 07:21h, 04 FebruaryVery nice result for a pattern’s first dry run. Your personal fabric choices and the colour combos are what makes this shirt such a pleasure to see. Re. pattern adjustments, I think the bust dart ends are a bit high and a bit long towards CF. And perhaps the upper back (below yoke & above the waist) needs shortening?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:02h, 05 FebruaryMany thanks, Digs! I agree with everything you say about the fit 😉
Teresa Davey
Posted at 11:01h, 04 FebruaryLooks fab to me! I’m still pleased if my projects ‘generally’ fit, probably why I’m enjoying sewing with knits so much at the moment 🙂 Will look forward to seeing your perfect-fit version.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:03h, 05 FebruaryI adore the forgiving nature of knits 🙂 🙂
Many thanks for your comment, Teresa!
Sew, Jean Margaret
Posted at 11:36h, 04 FebruaryLove your fabric combination. This is a great result only requiring a few minor changes to perfect the fit. I think I might have to purchase this pattern. Looking forward to the silk version.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:03h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Jean! I’ll probably make one more test shirt before using the silk 😉
Natalie
Posted at 14:10h, 04 FebruaryI love your wearable muslin and I too can’t wait to see your silk version. Would also love to know how you adjust the back sleeve area. It is a problem I have with all patterns and have yet to perfect it. Usually I take 1″ away from the shoulder seam and add that amount to the bottom on the body portion. You have great experience with fitting patterns so would be wonderful to learn the process.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:06h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Natalie! Actually I am very inexperienced in shirt making but I’ll keep you posted on what alteration I make 🙂
Laura Casey
Posted at 14:17h, 04 FebruaryJust love the shirt…and the trim pieces make it over the top…..pointing out the changes I can see….but wear this one with cofidence, it’s still a wonderfully made shirt….
I’m at my 4-day sewing retreat……but just had to peek at email…glad I did.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:07h, 05 FebruaryA four day sewing retreat sounds divine!! Thanks for taking time out to comment, Laura 😉
Kristin Thurber
Posted at 14:40h, 04 FebruaryI always make my muslins out of fabric that I just might wear. One of the last ones was out of a curtain panel I got from goodwill for $5. I get lots of compliments when I wear it.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:08h, 05 FebruaryLOL! Scarlett O’Hara would be proud 😉 !!
MaryEllen
Posted at 14:54h, 04 FebruaryI would agree with the others – great job on this pattern . I love the use of the contrast fabric & color combination . I don’t mind PDFs , it’s making a muslin that seems a waste of time for me. I do know it’s necessary but always hope my wearable is truly wearable !
I always love your honesty & tips . Your shirt looks great .
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:09h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Mary Ellen 🙂 My PDF comment was somewhat tongue and cheek – the process was just a little long this time.
Barbara Hewitt
Posted at 14:57h, 04 FebruaryI have enjoyed your web site. Because my shape is the opposite of yours, being 5’11 and in young adulthood very slender but with age many things have dropped and made my middle larger. I have enjoyed your creative ideas. This shirt is an example of so many of us when we don’t sew a muslin first. So, your example is a real encouragement to me. I sometimes think I know the process of fitting well enough to skip the muslin. Your beautiful pictures and encouragement will help me to not skip the muslin process.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:11h, 05 FebruaryBarbara – I’m delighted to you have benefitted from my post 🙂 I’ve never regretted making a muslin – must remind myself of this!
Many thanks.
Cissie Wellons
Posted at 16:35h, 04 FebruaryI am with you on putting those PDF together. I read a review of one recently that mentioned 80 printed pages. No thank you, and I’m one who likes some instant gratification. I think your “wearable muslin” will get lots of wear! I love your fabric combinations. I am finishing up my “wearable muslin” of this pattern and found it quite small in the bust (not something that happens often). I guess that’s what they mean by designed for pear shaped bodies!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:14h, 05 February…….. an 80 page PDF would be the end of me! While writing my PR review I noticed Tasia said ” Sizing is proportioned for a pear-shaped figure: smaller bust and waist, larger hips.’ That’s not me – what was I thinking?
Can’t wait to see yours, Cissie and many thanks for the comment 🙂
Jereena
Posted at 17:59h, 04 FebruaryYour shirt looks cute. i would not have noticed the flaws if it was not pointed out. The pinstripe fabric is very lovely. You give me the courage to try a jacket pattern I bought few years back. May be I’ll do a wearable muslin with basting stitches before cutting into the expensive fabric.
I am putting off buying pdf patterns just for the reasons mentioned in your post.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:16h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Jereena! My PDF comment was somewhat tongue in cheek – they certainly have a place on the sewing scene these days!
Good luck with your jacket 🙂
Alex in California
Posted at 21:59h, 04 FebruaryVery nice, very wearable.. Turn back the sleeves and add a wide brim hat makes me think of gardening with glamour.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:17h, 05 FebruaryGardening with glamour – I like that and will follow your suggestions 🙂
Many thanks for the comment.
Sarah Wilson
Posted at 11:32h, 05 FebruaryI love the candy pink stripe you have chosen for this shirt and it does contrast effectively with the print fabric.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:17h, 05 FebruaryThank you, Sarah!
mrsmole
Posted at 11:34h, 05 FebruaryThe bust darts look like they end too high and too close to the apex. They could be dropped 1 inch and shortened at least an inch which may give a tad more room in the area. Drag lines point to areas of stress and the need for more pattern/fabric ease. Nice fabric choice but this pattern was drafted flat while most women have curves both front, back and sides.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:18h, 05 FebruaryTotally agree, Mrs.Mole! Many thanks for the suggestions.
Cindy Aymes
Posted at 12:26h, 05 FebruaryI love the fabric choices, colours, everything!! Until I saw your version I had no desire to make this shirt, but now, I must!! Thanks for the inspiration!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:18h, 05 FebruaryAh…. how sweet 🙂 The shirt has many good qualities – good luck with yours, Cindy!
boutis
Posted at 12:31h, 05 FebruaryWith the costs of printer ink, miles of tape, and quality paper, not to mention time and aggravation, it is cheaper to just buy a pattern. EXCEPT for patterns like this one. I guess I will have to give PDF’s a try again. Sarah even your sewing boo-boos look good. Crisp shirting requires really exact fitting since it has so little drape.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 22:19h, 05 FebruaryLOL! I think you’re right about the paper pattern being cheaper! Many thanks for your nice comment, Boutis!
Pamela Bowman
Posted at 03:35h, 06 FebruaryYou always achieve a beautiful fit. Did the Craftsy class help greatly? or Susan K.’s classes? or certain books or lots of practice? I have not learned to custom fit myself. I used to get away with size 8 or 10 Vogue patterns when I weighed 104 to 108 pounds (I’m 5-feet 8-inches tall). I had surgery for severe IBD and have taken massive quantities of steroids and weigh 50 pounds more now. I no longer look like a runway model and I have purchased 100’s of vintage patterns, many that are for a 34 inch bust and I am 38 inches. What is the best method for enlarging vintage patterns?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 11:35h, 06 FebruaryThank you, Pamela! All of the classes I have taken have been very helpful but I’m no expert. You may want to buy the Craftsy class on fitting the bust. Here is the link http://www.craftsy.com/class/adjust-the-bust-the-complete-guide/375?_ct=sbqii-sqjuweho-dum&_ctp=5&rceId=1423222414384~gpgckqdi
Good luck 🙂
Laurraine Barrington
Posted at 12:12h, 06 FebruaryThank you for posting the pictures and comments on this pattern. I love the fabrics you have chosen and am tempted to download this very useful pattern myself to try. Your comments on the wearable muslin have made me think hard about ‘fit’ and how sometimes I am too easily satisfied with ‘near enough . . .’. I’ve vowed to try harder to take more time to get a better fit and more professional finish. Keep on sewing . . . Laurraine
Véronique Vidal
Posted at 18:50h, 06 FebruaryThe trick with PDF is knowing your patience limits! I never ever cut any fabric, be it destined for a muslin or the wearable garment right after piecing and tracing (or cutting) the pdf. It’s just too much work. I prefer splurging on pre-printed, but sometimes it’s just not an option. Always love your fabric choices, they suit you so well – good job.
Helen McCleneghen
Posted at 20:50h, 06 FebruaryI cannot wait to see the silk version! Great job.
Wrenaissance Art
Posted at 13:02h, 10 FebruaryI just love the pink stripe with the flashy contrast fabric at cuffs and collar! It really makes that classic shirt design stand out.
As others have mentioned, most of the “fit errors” are of the type other people would never notice if you didn’t point them out.
Good luck with the next version.
Kelly
Posted at 18:00h, 11 FebruaryPDF patterns annoy me to no end. The instant gratification of receiving the pattern is the ONLY good thing about them. Regardless, the shirt you made is adorable, even with the fitting problems. The average person who only buys RTW clothing will not notice them more than likely.
I am new to your blog and am enjoying my visit so far!
Joen
Posted at 16:39h, 15 FebruaryI love your fabric combination! Can’t wait to see your silk version. I know with the adjustments you plan to make you will feel more comfortable in your next version, however, your wearable muslin looks great too!
Reah Barton
Posted at 12:34h, 10 MarchNice choice of fabric, as usual. It looks professional anyway. I hope to try that pattern soon.