14 Jan Scuba Knit Redeemed – Vogue 9047
If you think I made the same dress twice I can understand why…….
My first dress for the 2018 RTW Fast is the same fabric as my last dress – the Christmas dress blogged here. I knew from the moment I finished it, there was room for improvement, so much so, that I ordered more fabric and made another dress with another pattern using my old favorite ~ Vogue 9047.
I adore the vivid color and texture of the Oscar de la Renta scuba knit and was determined to get it right on my second try, but I needed to pinpoint what went wrong the first time.
Dress #1 (below) is a fitted shift. As easy as it was to sew, I find fitting a shift can be tricky and I hurriedly finished the dress to wear it for Christmas.
- The fit of the front was OK, but I always tugged it in place whenever I stood up.
- The scuba knit was too heavy for the ruffled sleeve embellishment.
- The fit features negative ease in the bust and no ease in the hips ~ there is slack through the waist and in the back.
4. I added darts to the back which helped with the fit, but due to the weight of the fabric and its solid color, they are extremely noticeable.
Vogue 9047 is a favorite pattern of mine. It is designed for my shape, and I’ve sewn the pattern several times.I removed the bust darts following the excellent Maria Denmark tutorial to achieve a smooth upper bodice.
The division of upper and lower bodices provides several opportunities to gain a flattering fit. Tweaking the side seams before attaching the upper and lower bodices allowed me to eliminate the slack in the waist and fit my hips.
The back is a 100% improvement over Dress #1, and no darts.
Since all knits behave differently, I always baste before sewing to get the fit just so. While the scuba has ample stretch, its weight affected the overall look and fit. A small wrinkle or fold in a lightweight knit is hardly noticeable, but on a solid color scuba it becomes the main attraction.
I sewed the garment with the stretchable Eloflex thread. While this is unconventional, I used a jeans needle. I don’t know why but the needle worked beautifully with the thread and fabric. I also sewed using a 2.5 and 3 stitch length. Eloflex provides a beautiful stretch result without requiring a zigzag stitch.
I followed a favorite knit neckline technique by folding the neckline and trimming close to the stitching.
Use sharp scissors and don’t be afraid!
Dress #1 also made me realize it was time for a new iron.
There is a first time for everything, and this is the first time I’ve reordered the same fabric to sew another similar garment due to a mediocre result. However I’m glad I did so I could not only redeem myself, but wear this lovely color. The fabric is an Oscar de la Renta scuba knit from Mood Fabrics. I bought the last of the green, but it is still available in Waterfall Blue.
…… quite the ordeal but a happy ending alas 😊
Next Up ~ a giveaway from Craftsy