Scuba Knit – McCall’s 7539

25 Jan Scuba Knit – McCall’s 7539

Same black boots, same black tights, but a brand new dress…………. it’s Winter in the South!

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I rarely begin Winter sewing in earnest until January due to South Carolina’s milder climate coupled with holiday madness.
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Back in my RTW days, I wore way too much black, resulting in a cautious approach to sewing too many dark, somber colors…………… but a black scuba knit fabric overflowing with metallic winter blooms? Bring it on!

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McCall’s 7539 is a pattern I overlooked, and although the pattern has recently gone out of print, it is still available on McCall’s website and possibly at JoAnn’s etc..

M7539_aI loved the sheath silhouette, along with the topstitching and neckline options.

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Scuba knit was the first recommended fabric on the pattern envelope, leading me to order this lovely fabric from Promenade Fine Fabrics specifically for this pattern.

I’m at a loss of words to describe the layout of the fabric’s floral design, but I quickly realized careful pattern placement was crucial. Each pattern piece was not only cut individually but rotated in the opposite lengthwise direction to achieve a mirrored image.

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While it looks like I wasted huge amounts of fabric, I did not. 😉 The painstaking pattern placement worked, although the design was impossible to match exactly.

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After cutting out the pattern I was home free and the construction was fun 😊

For the topstitched seams I trimmed the seam allowance close to the stitching. In the photo below, the left side has been trimmed. (Technique explained here.)

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The side seam allowances were finished with the serger. Due to the bold fabric I substituted an exposed zipper for the invisible zipper.

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I also shortened the sleeves and added black cuffs using the back side of the fabric.

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Other than shortening the bodice by 1″, I made no alterations to the pattern. The bodice and skirt darts met perfectly creating the nipped in waist, so characteristic of the classic sheath silhouette.

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There’s nothing more fun than a hassle free sewing project, and this one gets two thumbs up!

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PS……. just for fun, I’m including some photos from a book club trunkshow and presentation Julie and I did two days ago .

We thoroughly enjoy sharing our love of fashion sewing with others. This group included sewists and non-sewists!
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Scooby dooby do! These scubas are not companion fabrics, and we were surprised by how well they worked together! The dress on the left is Julie’s.
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Winter dressing……….
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Have a good one!

goodbyevalentino
goodbyevalentino@gmail.com
58 Comments
  • Marijane Smith
    Posted at 11:14h, 25 January Reply

    Fabulous dress! Love that fabric!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 11:34h, 25 January Reply

      Thank you, Marijane!!

  • Nova
    Posted at 11:41h, 25 January Reply

    I am impressed that you saw a quasi-mirrorable pattern in the fabric; the end result is surely lovely. But how did you know how much fabric to order?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 11:48h, 25 January Reply

      Nova,
      I ordered the suggested yardage +1/2 yard, but I was completely surprised by the layout once I received the fabric 😳 Fortunately it all worked out.

  • terrie w
    Posted at 11:46h, 25 January Reply

    So excited to see the choices that you made to take this floral fabric up a notch! The mirrored result is fantastic and looks really sleek and elegant on you. Thanks for the inspiration, again! Love the blog. Terrie

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 11:53h, 25 January Reply

      Many thanks, Terrie! Since cutting the fabric was over half the battle, I wanted to share. I’ve never had such a head scratching experience before in pattern placement 😉

  • Jeff Laskowski
    Posted at 11:47h, 25 January Reply

    Very nice. I love the dress!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 11:53h, 25 January Reply

      Thank you, Jeff!

  • Janice P
    Posted at 12:26h, 25 January Reply

    Great pattern placement. Incredible dress.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:51h, 25 January Reply

      Many thanks, Janice ☺️

  • Rebecca Bagwell
    Posted at 12:58h, 25 January Reply

    Love how you placed the fabric! Love the detail! Love the dress! Love you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:08h, 25 January Reply

      ❤️❤️❤️❤️🤗 Ahh… thanks, Becky!

  • Patricia Pfeiffer
    Posted at 13:08h, 25 January Reply

    Wow! That took some genius layout skills, and it worked out beautifully. The dress is really cute on you. The pattern, with a waist seam was perfect for the way you had to place the pattern pieces. If it had been a style that was cut top to bottom in one piece I doubt it would have worked out so well. The “seamstress brain” is part artist, and part engineer! Success!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:25h, 25 January Reply

      Thank you so much, Patricia! I was clueless about the pattern placement at first – had the pattern been one piece from top to bottom I would have cut it much differently! I so agree with you about the ‘seamstress brain’ 😊

  • Barbara Speer
    Posted at 13:42h, 25 January Reply

    Wonderful dress! I would have never imagined the mirrored layout. Can’t wait to try it on a project of my own. Your posts are such an inspiration

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:26h, 25 January Reply

      Many thanks, Barbara! I did not imagine a mirrored layout either when I saw the fabric 😉 Thankfully it all worked out.

  • Barbara Williams
    Posted at 13:49h, 25 January Reply

    You look so very pretty in this dress! It is a really nice look. Your expertise in pattern placement and putting all of that together shines. 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:27h, 25 January Reply

      Thank you so much, Barbara, and thankfully it all came together 😉

  • Rosalind Clayton
    Posted at 13:54h, 25 January Reply

    BEAUTIFUL as always Sarah!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:28h, 25 January Reply

      Ahhh……. thank you, Rosalind 🤗

  • Anna A
    Posted at 15:54h, 25 January Reply

    I always get excited when I see a new blog post from you in my email because I know inspiration awaits! This one certainly did not disappoint! I would I have never thought to mirror that fabric and I will now try to look at my stash through your eyes! Thank you for taking the time to share!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 16:37h, 25 January Reply

      Thank you for your nice comment, Anna! I had not planned to mirror the fabric originally, but flexibility is crucial when sewing! 😉

  • Liselotte Johansson
    Posted at 15:59h, 25 January Reply

    Beautiful dress

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 16:38h, 25 January Reply

      Many thanks, Liselotte 😊

  • Gayle
    Posted at 16:26h, 25 January Reply

    You are so clever! I never would have thought of mirroring that fabric and it turned out so well! I envy your sewing expertise. Thank you for sharing the pictures of your trunk show also

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 16:39h, 25 January Reply

      Gayle ~ Mirroring the fabric was not my original intention but – make it work – right?
      Many thanks for your comment – I’m always happy to share pictures 😉

  • LB
    Posted at 16:53h, 25 January Reply

    It turned out great!
    Did you put a backing on your pattern, it looks white on one side?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 16:54h, 25 January Reply

      Thank you, LB! I did not put a backing on my pattern and am not sure what you’re referring to.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 16:57h, 25 January Reply

      Oh – LOL! What you see is the table after I cut out the pattern piece 😂

      • LB
        Posted at 17:23h, 25 January Reply

        Oh! You’re right is is the table! Some of my patterns are so worn, I’d hoped you had an option for me!

  • karen
    Posted at 18:33h, 25 January Reply

    I really like this pattern with the center front seam – hey anything to create lovely vertical lines! Your front neckline looks lower than the line drawing. Did you lower it?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:37h, 25 January Reply

      Agree, Karen!
      I sewed the View A neckline without an alteration ~ I originally planned to sew View B, but with so much was going on with the fabric I changed my mind.😉
      Many thanks for the comment!

  • Karey Harrison
    Posted at 20:04h, 25 January Reply

    Love the pattern marching. So worth the extra fabric. I’m short so tend to scrimp on yardage. You had to recognise the possibility for careful layout before buying. That takes a great eye and lots of experience. Inspiring.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:09h, 26 January Reply

      Thank you, Karey! With a large design , I always order a little more, but I never dreamed the pattern placement would be so complicated 😉

  • Laura Casey
    Posted at 20:27h, 25 January Reply

    Truly brilliant-the layout, mirrored image I never would have seen…it elevates this make, Sarah…..Great make….stay warm, it’s very cold in the Mts. Here. Laura

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:11h, 26 January Reply

      Many thanks, Laura! Cold, cold, cold…… and I’m off for an outdoor girl’s trip today 😬 Should have made some long underwear!

  • Lisa Lacy
    Posted at 08:27h, 26 January Reply

    This is one of my favorites!!! Can’t wait to see your 2019 Makes.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:32h, 27 January Reply

      Thank you, Lisa!

  • Karen Mulkey
    Posted at 09:01h, 26 January Reply

    How very clever of you to fussy cut the bold print to have a mirror imagine down the dress front – genius and so on trend!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:34h, 27 January Reply

      After the fabric arrived I knew it needed to be mirrored – determination over genius however!
      Many thanks to you and Ann Briggs for teaching me a new term – fussy cut😊

  • Daisy Dianne Bromlow
    Posted at 09:39h, 26 January Reply

    ABSOLUTELY LOVE the fabric and the pattern choice was perfect !

    • JS
      Posted at 19:08h, 26 January Reply

      The fabric is gorgeous.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:35h, 27 January Reply

      Many thanks, Daisy! So thankful it all came together 😊

  • Ann Boyd Briggs
    Posted at 12:28h, 26 January Reply

    Love the dress! Beautiful fabric
    I think it was worth your effort to fussy cut the pattern.

    I want to know what sewing scuba knit is like? I’ve seen some gorgeous scuba knit fabric online but haven’t been willing to purchase since I have no knowledge of this fabric.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:31h, 27 January Reply

      Thank you, Ann ~ for the comment and introducing a new term….. fussy cut 😊
      I like sewing scuba knit. It’s a stable knit which sews very easily. This knit has a good bit of stretch so I sewed larger seams to get just the right fit. Scuba knit is available in different weights. My preference is the lightweight scuba.

  • JS
    Posted at 19:08h, 26 January Reply

    Beautiful dress. Terrific handling of the print.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:36h, 27 January Reply

      Thank you so much, JS!

  • Mary Anne Chambers
    Posted at 09:00h, 27 January Reply

    Wow, I am so impressed by how you worked out that layout. It was well worth all the head scratching because you nailed it!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:36h, 27 January Reply

      Many thanks, Mary Anne! There was definitely some head scratching involved 😉

  • Melanie Brewster
    Posted at 11:41h, 27 January Reply

    Beautiful! Do you ever do any presentations in the Boston area??

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:00h, 27 January Reply

      Melanie,
      I will be in the Boston area in early August. More soon…… 😊

  • Maryellensews
    Posted at 09:14h, 28 January Reply

    Another wonderful post ! I just bought some scuba from Promenade ❤️ – so I your tips are timely & very helpful

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:35h, 28 January Reply

      Many thanks, Mary Ellen! Look forward to seeing your Promendade scuba garment😊😊

  • Maryellensews
    Posted at 09:16h, 28 January Reply

    👍👍👍

  • AllisonC
    Posted at 19:13h, 28 January Reply

    Gorgeous dress and I love the way you used the fabric, even if it makes my head hurt a bit thinking about how to do it!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:41h, 29 January Reply

      Thank you, Allison! It was such a puzzle in the beginning…… I could see pattern similarities but couldn’t wrap my brain around how to make the pattern pieces work with the fabric until I looked at it from the opposite direction – Viola´!

  • Barbara Showell
    Posted at 06:08h, 06 February Reply

    That pattern placement was crazy good. It looks better than it did flat. It is what quilters call fussy cut” in the whole other dimension of fashion sewing. Boggles my mind.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:31h, 11 June Reply

      This one definitely boggled my mind, Barbara! Many thanks for the comment 😊

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