Saint James Dress

03 Apr Saint James Dress

Knowing I can sew a garment for a tiny fraction of the retail price of a simply thrills me, and is one of the reasons I continue to sew.


I knew I could make the $200 Saint James Toledo striped dress I saw in a boutique in Charlotte,Screen Shot 2017-03-30 at 2.43.22 PMbut I didn’t know that Mood Fabrics stocked Saint James knits ~ the very same fabrics!

Upon finding Burda 6722, I knew it was meant to be.


Described as a ponte, Mood offers the Saint James knits in several colors, and I chose the white background with black stripes.

Saint James-001

I rarely sew Burda patterns (no reason in particular) but that needs to change for their fit is always spot on! I made no pattern alterations other than shortening the bodice along the adjustment lines.

IMG_0017Loaded with body and a terrific drape, the fabric works well for a shapely garment and has great recovery.

IMG_0013 2Stripes are so much fun to work with! I couldn’t end this project without a little play on stripes, and echoed the vertical stripes in the shoulder with a small vertical striped border on the hem.IMG_0011For the 1″ border, I wanted to encase the lower edge and cut a 3″ strip of fabric which was folded in half.

IMG_5132After turning  and pressing in 1/2″ on each side, I found the placement line on the outside of the dress and basted in place along the foldline before stitching, and then folding to the inside.


I ultimately decided to finish the border by handstitching rather than topstitching since the only topstitching featured is on the sleeve hem, and is barely visible.


Since I was unable to make a muslin for this dress, all seams were first basted before stitching and finished in the serger.

The pattern would have been an instant gratification project had I not added the border, but I’m loving the finished look!

A big thumbs up to Mood Fabrics for finding this great knit and a very Happy Monday to all 🙂

Lulu and saint james-001

  • Mary Stein
    Posted at 10:08h, 03 April Reply

    Better by far than the original!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:25h, 03 April Reply

      Ah….. that’s so nice, Mary! Many thanks 🙂

  • Joy
    Posted at 10:09h, 03 April Reply

    Sarah, your dress is beautiful! I have the same fabric and was going to make another Burda T-shirt pattern, but after seeing your dress, will order this pattern today!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:26h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Joy! Good luck with the dress 😉

  • Kathy T
    Posted at 10:15h, 03 April Reply

    Very nice summer dress and the addition of the hem detail is truly fun. Thank you for the information about Mood Fabrics offering St. James knits. Who knew?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:27h, 03 April Reply

      Many thanks, Kathy! I also recommend visiting the Saint James website 😉

  • Jeff Laskowski
    Posted at 10:18h, 03 April Reply

    Very nice dress. I like the perpendicular lines at the hemline!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:27h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you so much, Jeff (?) !

  • MaryEllen
    Posted at 10:18h, 03 April Reply

    I have this fabric in the navy/green . Your dress is so much better than the original . You have such a great knack for matching fabric & pattern . LOVE IT

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:28h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Mary Ellen!After putting the vertical band on, I actually like it better than the Saint James dress too. 😉

  • Connie Griffin
    Posted at 10:28h, 03 April Reply

    You look beautiful, as always, in your creation. Very inspiring!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:29h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you so much, Connie!

  • Sandy
    Posted at 10:34h, 03 April Reply

    Interesting that for $200 you don’t get sleeve stripes that match the bodice, which means your dress must be worth far more than that! I especially like the border hem.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:29h, 03 April Reply

      I like the way you think, Sandy! Many thanks 🙂

  • Sarah Stubbs
    Posted at 10:34h, 03 April Reply

    Beautiful – your version surpasses the original.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:30h, 03 April Reply

      Hi Sarah! Thank you for the comment 😉

  • Susan
    Posted at 10:35h, 03 April Reply

    Sarah, you’ve made another fabulous dress which looks stunning on you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:30h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Susan! I’m loving this dress 😉

  • Tina Spear
    Posted at 10:36h, 03 April Reply

    I have the exact same fabric as yours that I purchased a couple of years ago and have been wondering what I would use it for. Now I know. And I love the bottom hem detail….which I will copy!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:31h, 03 April Reply

      Please copy away, Tina! Look forward to seeing your dress 🙂

  • Ellen Miller
    Posted at 10:38h, 03 April Reply

    I love your version this dress, especially the vertically striped hem piece. It’s always better when you can change up someone else’s design making it your own– and you own this look! Love it!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:35h, 03 April Reply

      That’s part of the fun of sewing for me. So often my sewing projects are moving targets until the last stitch 😉
      Many thanks for your comment, Ellen!

  • Margene Yeaton
    Posted at 10:56h, 03 April Reply

    Spectacular! Going to NY soon and will visit Mood for sure and check out the Saint James fabric. THANK YOU!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:37h, 03 April Reply

      I’m jealous, Margene – Would love to have some time in Mood! Have fun and thanks for the comment 🙂

  • Donna Strawser
    Posted at 11:07h, 03 April Reply

    I love your version, especially the hem and the shoulders!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:37h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Donna! I was thrilled to find this pattern 🙂

  • Fern
    Posted at 11:21h, 03 April Reply

    Perfection! Stripes can be tricky to match, but you have done an excellent job.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:38h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Fern! Stripes can be busy – another reason for basting 🙂

  • Suzanne
    Posted at 11:22h, 03 April Reply

    Love that dress on you! I don’t comment much, but it was such a hit that I had to write something. You did a fantastic job recreating that, that Burda pattern was so spot on in the shoulders.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:47h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Suzanne for your comment! It was an easy recreation after finding the Burda pattern – one of those ‘fun’ sewing projects for sure 🙂

  • Heather Zinck
    Posted at 11:37h, 03 April Reply

    As always, a lovely result. I particularly like the hem treatment.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:47h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you so much, Heather!

  • Ardy Wolynec
    Posted at 11:52h, 03 April Reply

    I can only write as others have. What a great dress and the detail of the vertical stripe at hem completes the look!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:50h, 03 April Reply

      Thanks so much, Ardy! It was an easy and fun make 😉

  • Julia
    Posted at 12:15h, 03 April Reply

    Ditto the above… love love LOVE your take on the hem!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:51h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Julia! I thought I was finished until I tried it on to place the hem 😉 Gotta stay flexible 😉

  • Cathryn Harjung
    Posted at 12:30h, 03 April Reply


    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:51h, 03 April Reply

      Many thanks, Cathryn!

  • Cissie Wellons
    Posted at 12:37h, 03 April Reply

    Love this on you. Your version is better than the original. Hem is great!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:54h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Cissie! I really love it when a project surpasses my expectations 😉

  • Jennifer Shaw
    Posted at 12:45h, 03 April Reply

    Truly loving this dress on you! It is fantastic the way you made the border hem. I so enjoy reading your reviews.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:56h, 03 April Reply

      Many thanks, Jennifer! I didn’t plan on the hem until I tried the dress on for the final fitting 😉

  • Paulla Maxey
    Posted at 13:09h, 03 April Reply

    Love this! I don’t normally comment, but could not help myself on this one. The finishing detail at the hem and all the perfectly matched stripes make this exceptional.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:57h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Paulla for your nice comment! Baste and stay flexible 😉

  • Lynne Harris
    Posted at 13:24h, 03 April Reply

    I would be really interested to know how much your finished dress cost. I know fabric is not cheap and woud be interested in the difference between homemade and retail.
    Thank you for another great post.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:00h, 03 April Reply

      Hi Lynne!
      Many thanks for your comment. Mood Fabrics gave this fabric to me so I did not pay for it, however it is $17.99 a yard and I ordered two yards for my dress. The pattern was approximately $6 and I don’t remember the cost of the thread, but there were no other expenses. Had I bought the fabric the total cost would be approximately $45 and certainly under $50 😉

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 13:51h, 03 April Reply

    Great looking dress! The hem was an inspiration. I love knocking off designer clothes.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:01h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you so much, Alice! I too, absolutely love pulling off a designer garment 🙂 🙂

  • Trudy Anderson
    Posted at 14:08h, 03 April Reply

    It looks stunning especially on your petite figure. I love the hem detail. thanks for inspiring. I have always sewn since I am less than 5′ tall and had and ample bust.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:08h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Trudy! I wasn’t sure if the border would work at my height, but keeping it to a 1″ band was a good proportion. 😉

  • Becky Bagwell
    Posted at 14:15h, 03 April Reply

    Love the dress! Sew much fun!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:08h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Becky!!

  • Jeannie
    Posted at 14:22h, 03 April Reply

    Simply perfect! Seeing stripes for summer all over Paris—including the Saint James store down the street. Why is the Burda classified as a Junior? Is that a Petite for them?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:10h, 03 April Reply

      Oh to be in Paris!
      I don’t have the answer but after checking the measurements I thought the fit would work and it did, thank goodness 🙂
      Many thanks for the comment, Jeannie!

  • Andrea Houlihan
    Posted at 15:17h, 03 April Reply

    Absolutely Stunning! I have been following your blog for a while now and I enjoy every single post, this dress whilst it looks like it was a quick sew looks sew expensive and the fit is perfect on you. Congrats on a lovely dress

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:14h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you so much, Andrea! It’s the best of sewing – an easy make and an expensive look!!

  • Barbara Anderson
    Posted at 15:40h, 03 April Reply

    Gorgeous, gorgeous , gorgeous , Sarah . Will this become the new McCalls 6886 .?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:15h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Barbara! I really like this bodice better than McCalls 6886 since no darts are needed!

  • Melissa
    Posted at 15:47h, 03 April Reply

    Absolutely gorgeous!!! You are inspiring me to start sewing clothes again. I mostly sew baby gifts, etc. Your dog is ADORABLE!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:22h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Melissa! Our dog, Lulu is an English Cocker and just had her first birthday. I hope you do give garment sewing another try soon 😉

  • Joyce Love
    Posted at 15:54h, 03 April Reply

    Another knockout! The proportion, fit, and detail of your dress are so much better than the original!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:23h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Joyce! It all came together for a successful result – Hooray!

  • Anne
    Posted at 16:04h, 03 April Reply

    I don’t know St James but this is lovely and a better fit than that on the model. I love the hem detail.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:30h, 03 April Reply

      Hi Anne ~ Saint James is a French company that originally designed nautical clothing. Now the line is somewhat expanded with many stores in the US.. I was really pleased with the result of the dress too 😉

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:30h, 03 April Reply

      …. and many thanks for your nice comment!

  • BrittanyE
    Posted at 16:10h, 03 April Reply

    Love this! And this is EXACTLY why I sew clothes. You can copy so many high end pieces for a fraction of the price. Also that St. James knit is to die for. I’ve bought it in every color!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:31h, 03 April Reply

      Every color?? I can see why of course! It is a wonderful fabric – would love to see what you do with the fabrics too! Many thanks for your comment, Brittany!

  • Karen Helm
    Posted at 16:30h, 03 April Reply

    I like yours better than the “original” – the hem detail adds so much! What a fabulous dress and you look lovely in it!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:32h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you so much, Karen and lovely to hear from you!

  • Pat Leonardi
    Posted at 16:33h, 03 April Reply

    I also like yours better than the original. Beautiful!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:33h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Pat!

  • Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
    Posted at 17:14h, 03 April Reply

    super cute – I’m on a stripe kick lately too. The hem detail looks great.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:33h, 03 April Reply

      Thanks, Beth!
      I’m always on a stripe kick and am happy they are on trend this year 😉

  • cat golden
    Posted at 17:39h, 03 April Reply

    Wonderful! I was worried about the pattern fitting a woman since it says “young”

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:34h, 03 April Reply

      You and me both, Cat 😉

  • Wendy M
    Posted at 17:59h, 03 April Reply

    Great pattern and fabric choice. Looks beautiful on you! I too, happen to have this fabric in my stash from mood. Mine is in the reverse colors and feels great. Can you tell me what size you made for yourself. I’m curious how the pattern runs. Did you use the sleeve pattern and just shorten it? THX and it looks beautiful on you. Love the necklace too.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:37h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you, Wendy!
      I made a size 10 and the pattern ran true to size. I did use the sleeve pattern and shortened it by several inches. The fit was a pleasant surprise as I made no adjustments other than shortening the bodice on the pattern adjustment lines 😉

  • Kristina
    Posted at 20:24h, 03 April Reply

    Utterly stunning. What a great knock off, I agree with one of the comments above, it looks better than the original, the hemband makes it extra special!

  • Amy jamieson
    Posted at 20:43h, 03 April Reply

    Oh Sara, I just love your version. And being a tall sewer, I love Burda patterns for their great fit. But it’s great to know that their drafting is spot-on for petite sewers as well. I love that hem band!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:39h, 03 April Reply

      I know tall women have as many fitting issues as short women and its nice to hear Burda serves all sizes! Many thanks for your comment, Amy!

  • Sandy
    Posted at 20:45h, 03 April Reply

    Outstanding. I love your knockoff. I would say that the only way to insure stripes matching is to make it yourself. Love it!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:39h, 03 April Reply

      LOL – I so agree, Sandy! Many thanks 🙂

  • Bernice
    Posted at 21:20h, 03 April Reply

    Really terrific dress! The hem band was a great idea – lovely!
    Enjoy your dress.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:42h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you Bernice! The hem band wasn’t planned but I’m usually open for extras when sewing 😉

  • Tomasa
    Posted at 21:23h, 03 April Reply

    Your dress is much better than the inspiration photo. It is so on trend in the stripe fabric. And wow, your cute doggie sure has grown up fast! He is so big now!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:43h, 03 April Reply

      Thank you so much for the nice comment, Tomasa! Lulu just turned one and is full grown. We went to a birthday party for the litter and she was one of the smaller dogs 😉

  • Sheri Lewis
    Posted at 21:35h, 03 April Reply

    Nicely done! Your garments and the fit are very inspiring.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:44h, 03 April Reply

      Many thanks, Sheri!

  • Maggie ecger
    Posted at 22:45h, 03 April Reply

    Great look!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:58h, 04 April Reply

      Thank you, Maggie!!

  • Cindy Symes
    Posted at 07:02h, 04 April Reply

    Your hem band MAKES this dress! The original is just a tshirt dress. This is fashion!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:34h, 04 April Reply

      Thank you, Cindy! I agree with you that the hem band transforms the pattern 😉

  • Sew Jean Margaret
    Posted at 07:13h, 04 April Reply

    I love this dress. The shape of the neckline is very flattering on you, and the addition of the vertical stripes at the hemline looks fantastic.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:24h, 04 April Reply

      Thank you Jean! If only all sewing projects were this easy and successful 😉

  • Lisa Gossett
    Posted at 08:00h, 04 April Reply

    Just stunning! It looks great on you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:24h, 04 April Reply

      Many thanks, Lisa!

  • Toocutedobs
    Posted at 09:22h, 04 April Reply

    I know. Do you really need another “atta girl” ? But come on! You succeeded and exceeded the original dress. FABULOUS DARLING 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:26h, 04 April Reply

      LOL – One can never have too many ‘atta girls’ 🙂 😉
      Many thanks!

  • Roberta Fahrni
    Posted at 11:35h, 04 April Reply

    Awesome – love it!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:26h, 04 April Reply

      Thank you, Roberta!

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 15:05h, 04 April Reply

    Wow! More comments than I’ve ever seen on this one dress!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:04h, 05 April Reply

      How true, Alice!

  • Linda Fisher
    Posted at 20:45h, 04 April Reply

    Love your dress! You’ve done really well with it. I don’t often find dresses that I like, but this one will fit me and I think that I will give it a go. I appreciate your sharing of it. thanks, Linda

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:06h, 05 April Reply

      Thank you so much, Linda! I am such a dress person and through sewing have found many dress profiles that work for me 🙂 🙂

  • Rianna Brown
    Posted at 04:35h, 05 April Reply

    So all the way across the ocean here in South Africa, I also have a lovely piece of striped navy and white ponte in my stash…..Sarah your dress is so gorgeous that I just had to have this pattern and rushed off to my local fabric store after work. My initial intention of just a plain t-shirt dress has been superseded by this far more interesting style for striped fabric!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:12h, 05 April Reply

      A good dress pattern can find its way across the globe in a heartbeat! Have fun sewing your stripes and many thanks for the comment, Rianna 🙂

  • Laureen Larrison
    Posted at 07:05h, 05 April Reply

    Love This! and love the hem detail! I had wanted to do something similar but wasn’t sure, now I am! Thanks, I am soooo making this!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:01h, 05 April Reply

      Thank you, Laureen! You won’t regret it 😉

  • Kathy
    Posted at 10:48h, 06 April Reply

    I love the drape in that fabric. I am looking for something like that…does this fabric wash well and does it need any ironing at all? I chatted with the Mood Fabric chatline yesterday and asked about washing this specific viscose. The representative couldn’t give me any information except what is on the website (which wasn’t very encouraging). Since you have first-hand experience with it, how do you find this particular fabric holds up to washing and wearing (without much wrinkling)? I really don’t want to dry-clean.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:38h, 07 April Reply

      I pre-washed the fabric in the machine but haven’t washed it since. The pre-washing went just fine, but I plan to hand wash the garment in cold water. 😉

  • Brenda Everett
    Posted at 23:25h, 08 April Reply

    I made a dress out of the saint James stripe from which I think is the same fabric and it washes beautifully with no wrinkling. Great dress Sarah!

    • Kathy
      Posted at 23:02h, 09 April Reply

      Thank you both, Sarah and Brenda, for your replies.

  • Jan Wright
    Posted at 07:41h, 27 April Reply

    Your version is so much cuter!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:32h, 16 May Reply

      Thank you, Jan!

  • Sanni
    Posted at 22:55h, 14 May Reply

    Really nice, especially with the hem detail.

    I’m surprised how well the pattern fits without a FBA. That’s what makes me hesitate to sew nautical stripes in jersey, even though I really love St James style stripes. Maybe I’ll give it a try now!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:32h, 16 May Reply

      Thank you, Sanni! I was impressed with the fit – it’s not always this easy 😉

  • Alice Meyers
    Posted at 15:01h, 29 May Reply

    Wow – this is so nice I bought the pattern and the fabric from Mood in navy/ecru. Did you pre-wash the fabric? The washing recommends dry cleaning but also suggests test washing a swatch in cold/dry flat. Can you give me any tips on pre-washing this gorgeous fabric? Many thanks, Alice

  • Peggy Leutheuser
    Posted at 18:52h, 03 June Reply

    I just finished making this thanks to you! I used the white and navy stripe, what a fabulous fabric. Came out beautiful just like yours. Love spending $40 instead of $200, keep them coming!

  • Barbara Cooper
    Posted at 08:58h, 08 June Reply

    I’ve been following your blog and I’m always inspired by your style and talent. I’m also a huge Saint James fan. I just bought some striped ponte at my local fabric store, Stone Mountain Fabrics, and was thinking about what pattern to use for a dress. Then I remembered this wonderful dress you made. Thanks so much for again inspiring me, Sarah!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:36h, 10 June Reply

      Thank you, Barbara and good luck with your dress!

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