Party Time! Vogue 8997

10 Oct Party Time! Vogue 8997

Raise your hand if you’re an Oscar de la Renta fan.IMG_0029

That would be me!

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Frankly I should raise both hands. I think Oscar de la Renta makes the best party dresses on earth! I’m drawn to the gorgeous fabric, clear colors and flattering fits, especially in the bodice.


One of these days I might just break down and buy one, but until that time comes, I’ll keep sewing O D L R inspired dresses.

Mood Fabric’s Red and Black 3-D Floral Brocade has party dress written all over it, and I placed an order for 3 1/2 yards of this mid-weight brocade. Little did I know I would cut out three patterns before finding one to showcase the beauty and dimension of this fabric! The fabric features a diagonal design which I realized needed to be treated like a stripe.


I settled on Vogue 8997, View B.


The 16- piece pattern allowed for strategic fabric placement letting me take advantage of the diagonal design, and I was able to create a mirrored effect with the pattern.IMG_0004 IMG_0006 3 IMG_0002


I’m fond of the dress silhouette although I don’t wear it often.


Being intent on a snugly fit bodice, I cut the back out in a smaller size, then sewed 1″ seams. Anything other than a snug fit would have resulted in slipping shoulders and gapes in the back-V.


Unless I’m sewing a decorative or separating zipper, my favorite zipper method is using the invisible zipper, and I used a Coats and Clark 14″ invisible zipper for this dress. I’ve tried every technique from hand inserted pic-stitched zippers to lapped zippers. I find inserting an invisible zipper with an invisible zipper foot always produces a nice clean finish with only the zipper pull in sight. (click on photo above or below for close-up look)


3 & 1/2 yards of brocade makes for a heavy dress, so I decided to line only the bodice. I know this decision knocks the dress out of the Oscar de la Renta echelon, but I did not want to wear a 10 pound dress!  This brocade features a non-scratchy backing, and I finished each edge on the serger before stitching the pieces together.


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I’m happy with the decision! The brocade has unbelievable body, does not wrinkle, and the skirt portion did not need to be lined. (PS – the skirt circumference is 144″ !)


Mood Fabrics stocks an abundance of beautiful brocades! Other than a tendency to ravel, I find brocade easy to handle, and the result is almost always festive – a definite win-win scenario.

I encourage you to give this delightful fabric a try for you holiday sewing, and now…..let the party begin!

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  • Becky Thompson
    Posted at 06:29h, 10 October Reply

    Absolutely stunning! Your pattern matching is spot on, especially with the zipper and that’s a feat considering the seam allowance fold. I only use Steam-a-Seam now to place my zippers. Have you tried that? Changes the game completely from pins. And you are right about the hand of brocade being the ultimate party dress. That is so, so pretty on you. Nicely done! Question, will you wear a black half slip underneath? I recently looked for one and ended up having to make my own because I couldn’t find one anywhere. That particular foundation piece seems to have gone by the wayside. I think one in this case would definitely cause the skirt to glide around the body and encourage the fabric to hang gracefully.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:05h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Becky! I cut out each piece separately to ensure pattern matching – very long process!
      I have used Steam-a-Seam and am almost addicted to it. Recently, I’ve been using an online tutorial that I’ve referred to on many occasions which has never let me down! I’m going with the ‘don’t change if it ain’t broken’ philosophy for now 😉
      Regarding slips – I never wear them! The skirt doesn’t need it so I guess I’m good!

  • Sharon S. Kane
    Posted at 06:40h, 10 October Reply

    Oh yeah – always in the mood for a party and with a fun dress like yours, I think the party has already begun! Beautiful fabric, fit and workmanship. Have a great time!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:12h, 10 October Reply

      I was ready to celebrate the moment I finished the dress so you’re right – the party has begun!
      Many thanks for the comment, Sharon 🙂

  • Jane Cartwright
    Posted at 07:20h, 10 October Reply

    GORGEOUS! Clever to cut the back a size smaller..

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:13h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Jane! That just seemed like the answer after making the muslin – it fit nicely everywhere else 😉

  • Rosalind Clayton
    Posted at 08:00h, 10 October Reply

    I really enjoy all of your posts & this is no exception! The dress is gorgeous & fits you perfectly, and as always you sew impeccably!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:14h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Rosalind! It was a rewarding sew :). 🙂

  • Sandy
    Posted at 08:18h, 10 October Reply

    I love the dress and the fabric. I am quite others are going to think it is an expensive designer dress. It fits beautifully!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:15h, 10 October Reply

      Many thanks, Sandy! I am very pleased with the result all the way around 😉

  • Christine Taylor
    Posted at 08:35h, 10 October Reply

    Just superb

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:16h, 10 October Reply

      Many thanks, Christine 😉

  • Julie Starr
    Posted at 08:42h, 10 October Reply

    Well you may have said goodbye to Valentino but you and Oscar definitely have a thing going here! I’ve also been hesitant to wear full skirted party dresses, thinking them not quite right for women “our age” but you’ve proven me completely wrong. I’ve had this pattern since it was released and now I can’t wait to sew it! You look utterly sophisticated and completely amazing.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:26h, 10 October Reply

      Goodbye Oscar de la Renta just doesn’t have the same ring, does it ?😜 Browse the web and you’ll find women of all ages wearing his clothes with full skirts.
      I think it’s all about proportion, don’t you?
      Many thanks for your nice comment, Julie!

  • Jane M
    Posted at 08:50h, 10 October Reply

    Love the dress and love this wonderful pattern, too.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:26h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you so much, Jane!

  • Kimberly Thomason
    Posted at 09:14h, 10 October Reply

    So beautiful! This pattern is going next on my list.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:27h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Kimberly! I’ve had this pattern for at least two years and it was well worth the wait to sew it 😉

  • Charlotte Aziz
    Posted at 09:19h, 10 October Reply

    Stunning! You and your dress look gorgeous!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:28h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Charlotte!!

  • Eleanor Pollack
    Posted at 09:44h, 10 October Reply

    Stunning dress. The fabric does take this pattern anywhere. I did a lace bodice with silk crepe decline for my sister’s June MOG several years ago. Then 4 months after that a heavily beaded, sequined and crystal studded bodice over a charmeuse skirt for her MOB that November.itsa pattern that flatters a range of sizes. Meanwhile, your red& black brocade will be dancing in my head!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:30h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Eleanor! Did you make both of the dresses from this pattern? Are they on PR? I must check them out!

  • Gerhild Turner
    Posted at 09:51h, 10 October Reply

    Wow, what a beautiful dress with perfect piecing of the fabric pattern. I love it. Great job!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:33h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you so much, Gerhild!!

  • Peggy Richards-Pattie
    Posted at 09:53h, 10 October Reply

    That is so beautiful!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:34h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Peggy! I’m quite pleased 😉

  • Margo Bergman
    Posted at 09:55h, 10 October Reply

    Gorgeous dress Sarah!! I have this pattern in my stash but of course,have yet to make it.I agree with you….invisible zippers are my favorite too.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:36h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Margo! I”m excited about your news – so happy for you 🙂

  • Jacqueline Harris
    Posted at 10:04h, 10 October Reply

    Isn’t it so true how you must take into account the wearable weight factor of a garment… some fabrics are pretty heavy to wear,
    Your dress look fabulous, and you look fabulous in it! I also really like how the dress looks on the inside – very fine work there.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:38h, 10 October Reply

      Many thanks, Jacqueline :). I questioned whether I would line the entire dress from the beginning due to the weight. Although it’s a mid-weight brocade, there is just so much of it!

  • MaryEllen
    Posted at 10:19h, 10 October Reply

    Another huge win Sarah ! You continually inspire to take sewing to the next level .

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:39h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you so much Mary Ellen! I’m going to l o v e this dress 😉

  • kathleen wallen
    Posted at 10:30h, 10 October Reply

    The dress looks beautiful. I have that pattern in my stash and need to look for the right fabric. I love all your posts, they are inspirational.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:42h, 10 October Reply

      Many thanks, Kathleen! I’ve had the pattern for at least two years and am delighted to finally put it to good use 😉

  • Paula LH
    Posted at 11:00h, 10 October Reply

    I love the dress, and it looks wonderful on you. I was delighted to find that I have the pattern, though I rarely have occasion for a serious party dress. Still, who knows?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:43h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you for the comment, Paula! I also think this dress would be lovely made in a cotton lawn for an afternoon get together. It is really a great pattern 🙂

  • Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
    Posted at 11:07h, 10 October Reply

    what a great look, you are ready for a holiday party. Love the color and fabric.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:44h, 10 October Reply

      I’m ready for a change! Often I find myself hemming a dress on the way out the door 😉 Thank you for the comment, Beth!!

  • Margene
    Posted at 11:12h, 10 October Reply

    STUNNING! Superb fit. What a beauty and ODLR would be proud.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:45h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you for the comment, Margene! ODLR would like everything except the unlined skirt but like I said – I didn’t want it to be too heavy!

  • Mary Rames
    Posted at 11:24h, 10 October Reply

    Just STUNNING Sarah! Yes, I love sewing with these brocades too! This dress is perfect on you in proportion, fit and color! Brava! Well done!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:49h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Mary! I’m truly happy with the result 😉

  • Vanessa
    Posted at 11:41h, 10 October Reply

    This dress is just gorgeous on you–a stunning work indeed! 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:50h, 10 October Reply

      Many thanks, Vanessa! It was one of those labors of love 😉

  • Pamela Elaine Smith
    Posted at 12:06h, 10 October Reply

    Wow what a sophisticated petite lady! The length and fit is perfect and you carry off the full skirt with easy elegance, just gorgeous.? Carolina and Oscar have got their work cut out on this one.Now that I have seen the full length photo and as I mentioned before I too am 5ft 2ins and this is the length for me as well.I am in awe of your sewing skills Sarah what a creative gift you have.Also your pal Julie’s comment was bang on too and she is a clever lady also with her creations, I look forward to seeing the dress she will make from this lovely pattern..
    For some reason another dress you made a few years ago the Burda 7081 when you wore a straw boater sticks in my mind as being a dress which suited you so much, the simple fabric was lovely. The white blouse with black embroidered sleeves is a favourite too. Love Pamela from Wales UK x

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:52h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you for your lovely comment, Pamela! I too, look forward to seeing Julie’s dress 😉
      That Burda was a great dress and excellent pattern! I must make it again!

  • Jennifer Shaw
    Posted at 12:14h, 10 October Reply

    You look marvelous in your beauty of a dress! I agree with you about ODLR and Carolina Herrera. They create the most gorgeous and elegant evening gowns!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:54h, 10 October Reply

      OMWord – I love these designers! Just imagine if they designed everyday clothes ;)….. of course their everyday life differs significantly than mine…..
      Many thanks for your nice comment, Jennifer!

  • Yanina Kern
    Posted at 13:01h, 10 October Reply

    Stunning !! Did you use all 3,5 yards of this fabric? I ordered same fabric yesterday and ordered only 2,5 yards, Also did you pre washed it and what size did you cut ? Thank you

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:56h, 10 October Reply

      Yanina – I used all of the fabric! I did not pre-wash it and will dry-clean the garment. I cut an 8 in the front and a 6 in the back 🙂
      Thank you fro the comment!

  • Judy Pineda
    Posted at 13:26h, 10 October Reply

    Beautiful, and your pattern matching fantastic! The fit, as always, is perfect = what a good idea to use a size smaller for the back bodice.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:57h, 10 October Reply

      Hi Judy!
      From the muslin – the pattern fit nice everywhere except in the back. Cutting a smaller size made a huge difference 😉 Many thanks for your comment!

  • Joan
    Posted at 13:52h, 10 October Reply

    LOVELY dress on you, Sarah! The fit and proportions are perfect.
    Holidays, here you come!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:58h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Joan! It’s nice to get ready early for a change 😉

  • Jeanne Walker
    Posted at 14:23h, 10 October Reply

    Sarah, What a beautiful party dress and you look amazing in it. I have sewn with Vogue – Oscar de la Renta many years ago and have always love how his patterns turn out. I still sew with Vogue and love how the patterns are design. I tired other patterns but always go back to Vogue. After visiting the Garment District last year I was surprise that all the patterns our made at McCall’s, so it’s hard to realize that Vogue still is the top in my book. Anyway, as always you’ve done an excellent job. Jeanne
    PS Love Mood Fabrics, great shop!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:07h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you for your nice comment. I visited The McCall Pattern Company a few years ago and learned that each company has its own designer and aesthetic to fulfill. I’m delighted Vogue Patterns are still around as I too, love them!
      I also agree with you on Mood – I wouldn’t sew without it 😉

  • Jill
    Posted at 14:41h, 10 October Reply

    Beautiful dress! Almost makes me happy that the winter season is approaching, thinking about holiday party dresses.

    I’ve reached the same conclusion you have as far as zippers. I particularly dislike the “exposed zipper” look that is so trendy now. To me, it just looks sloppy – like the maker doesn’t know how to properly set in a zipper. Invisible all the way, for me!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:10h, 10 October Reply

      Many thanks, Jill! I too, am almost happy winter season is here 😉
      As far as zippers, I think the exposed zippers have their place and have sewn several, but if I am sewing a zipper for function only – it’s gotta be invisible!!

  • joyjc
    Posted at 17:01h, 10 October Reply

    What a beautiful dress! The fit is perfect and your selection of fabric was point on. You look absolutely lovely 😊

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:11h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you so much, Joy – I’m pleased all the way around 🙂

  • AllisonC
    Posted at 20:01h, 10 October Reply

    How funny, I am in the middle of making a formal dress in that exact fabric (I found mine in China). It is a gorgeous fabric and you have certainly done it justice here. Hopefully I can do the same!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:08h, 10 October Reply

      That is funny, Allison! I look forward to seeing yours – please send a pic!

  • Lisa G
    Posted at 20:40h, 10 October Reply

    Sarah, this is absolutely stunning! I don’t think you’ve ever posted something that I haven’t loved! I have this pattern, but haven’t made anything with it just yet. Your brocade dress takes to an amazing level!! Do you always sew a muslin first? Also, how did you hem this dress? Thank you for your inspiring blog, and for being one of “those” bloggers who answers the questions in comments!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:10h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you so much, Allison!
      I almost always make a muslin and I did with this dress which told me the back needed attention. I put a 1 and 1/2″ inch hem in the dress and hemmed with the blind hem stitch on the machine.

      I too had this pattern in the stash – for at least 2 years! 😉

  • Karen Helm
    Posted at 21:19h, 10 October Reply

    The full skirt on this pattern, in that fabric, is so flattering and feminine. Just lovely – and so festive! You look wonderful and very much “party ready”!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:25h, 10 October Reply

      Thank you, Karen! It’s always fun to sew a party dress 🙂

  • Sheri Lewis
    Posted at 00:11h, 11 October Reply

    Another job well done, very inspiring!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:08h, 11 October Reply

      Thank you, Sheri! It was an undertaking with a pleasing result 🙂

  • Debi
    Posted at 00:50h, 11 October Reply

    Stunningly beautiful! Love seeing all your creations!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:08h, 11 October Reply

      Thank you so much, Debi :). 🙂

  • Manju
    Posted at 01:18h, 11 October Reply

    Absolutely beautiful sarah. Stunning fabric, fit and shape.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:09h, 11 October Reply

      Many thanks, Manju! You’ve made so many festive garments 😉

  • Thelma Ferris
    Posted at 07:40h, 11 October Reply

    Congratulations on all counts, – it’s a stunning pattern, the fabric is wonderfully dramatic and your look fabulous. Happy celebrating.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:10h, 11 October Reply

      Thank you so much, Thelma! It is always exciting when a project exceeds one’s expectations 😉

  • Wednesday Weekly #105 – Helen's Closet
    Posted at 11:14h, 11 October Reply

    […] Goodbye Valentino has done it again with this Vogue 8997! […]

  • Maggie ecger
    Posted at 18:25h, 11 October Reply

    It’s a winner. I borrowed your mother’s Oscar dress and felt and looked like a million. A long time ago but I remember. Beautiful dress! A Maggie

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:06h, 11 October Reply

      Thank you, Maggie! She has an Oscar dress????????? I must see it 🙂

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 19:01h, 11 October Reply

    LOVE IT!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:06h, 11 October Reply

      Thank you, Alice!!

  • Stephanie
    Posted at 12:35h, 14 October Reply

    Beautiful all around! Enjoy!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:40h, 15 October Reply

      Thank you, Stephanie!

  • Sew Jean Margaret
    Posted at 23:31h, 17 October Reply

    Absolutely gorgeous party dress. I love the silhouette and the fit is perfect. Beautiful!!!

  • Tomasa
    Posted at 16:11h, 18 October Reply

    This is such a beautiful dress. You will be turning heads when you wear this one!

  • Sheila Ternovacz
    Posted at 14:54h, 19 October Reply

    Absolutely gorgeous! I love, love, love this dress! Thank you for inspiring me to sew again! Love your blog!

  • Renee
    Posted at 08:35h, 24 October Reply

    Well. That’s stunning. That’s all. Stunning.

  • Brenda Zedella
    Posted at 09:37h, 29 October Reply

    I’ve had this pattern for a few years and now feel justified in using that much fabric, your dress is breathtaking!!! I also like the idea of cutting the back a smaller size, which I will undoubtedly need to do AND your fabric choice is divine. I would have never considered a brocade. You make it look good Sarah!!! Btw, it sounds like the pattern runs big overall, I am correct on that???

  • Brenda Zedella
    Posted at 09:41h, 29 October Reply

    Also, did you need to shorten the pattern beyond what it called for??? I’m 5’2″ 1/2ish and don’t want to be overwhelmed by too much fabric. That’s another reason why I kept hesitating to make this dress….

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