13 Apr Garment #9 McCall’s 6885
I was briefly tempted to spend $326 on a shirtdress I saw online before walking into a shop and seeing it on a hanger. I snapped to my senses upon feeling the paper thin silk on the shapeless garment. Since I returned to sewing, I have watched many ready-to-wear lines continue on a downward spiral, but wouldn’t you think $326 would buy a decent shirtdress?
In November, my friend Ruth gave me three beautiful pieces of Korean silk from her mother’s collection.
After the shirtdress incident I knew what to do with the middle fabric; an exquisite silk twill with a kaleidoscope design 😉
There are many fantastic shirtdress patterns out now. McCall’s 6885 was a great choice for my fabric and my style, in addition to being the exact pattern as the $326 dress.
I made View D and although I added two gentle shaping darts to the back out of personal preference, I was pleased to find no adjustments other than my usual adjustment of removing 2″ of length from the bodice were required to get the look.
I appreciated the absence of bust darts, but there were many design details to sew which required precision including the collar, a buttoned placket and sleeve tabs.
I sewed the entire dress with French seams. The exposed sleeve seams were the original incentive to use French seams, but I was ready to take the dress to a level much higher than the ready -to-wear dress.
To add an element of subtle visual interest, I sewed the underside of the placket pieces in a contrasting crepe de chine.
I did this by joining strips of fashion fabric and contrast fabric on the selvedge and folding on the seam before placing the pattern piece and cutting.
Rather than sew the tie ends into the side seams as instructed, I made a separate tie to provide styling options.
One discovery I made in this project was that running the buttonhole through the buttonhole attachment twice resulted in a very strong buttonhole for the large gold ball-type buttons I selected. I gave the method a try on a scrap piece of fabric and then applied it to my garment.
Check out the video:
IMG_1091-2
This was a most worthwhile project for me as I love the result! It is also quite empowering not only to rival but to exceed the quality of popular ready-to-wear garments 🙂
Enough amazement and gushing from me! Have fun with your sewing, dear Readers, and please share your favorite shirt dress pattern with me. I’m ready to sew another one!
Until soon 🙂
Marysia Paling
Posted at 07:01h, 13 AprilClever idea about the buttonholes, so thank you very much for sharing this tip.
Love the fabric of your shirtdress, perfect colours for you. As always the fit is beautiful.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 05:47h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Marysia! Read on………lots of great tips regarding buttonholes have been offered from readers 🙂
Cindy Aymes
Posted at 07:04h, 13 AprilI love love love your shirt dress! The fabric, the colours and the fit are all just perfect! Have you tried McCalls 6696 for a very cute shirtdress with buttons down the full length? That’s my suggestion for your next shirtdress. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 05:55h, 14 AprilMany thanks for your nice comment, Cindy! I have a friend who is getting ready to make this dress in off white out of a gorgeous fabric from EmmaOneSock. It’s a lovely pattern 😉
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 05:56h, 14 AprilI should have been more specific – she is making McCalls 6696 !
Myra
Posted at 07:08h, 13 AprilWhat a beautiful dress! I’ve never owned a shirt dress and I think it’s high time I did! Thank you so much for your awesome review (a great tip too!) I think I’ll be adding one to my summer wardrobe is well! Great work and Sarah!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 05:58h, 14 AprilLOL – I believe I have owned two shirtdresses over 20 years ago and neither were silk 😉
I hope you’ll make one for yourself, Myra and many thanks for your comment!
Karen
Posted at 07:18h, 13 AprilLove reading your blog and you have become such an accomplished seamstress. I too, love having the power over RTW and not spending the outrageous sums some of money the high end designers are asking! Your work is truly spectacular. After watching your video, looks like we have the same machine!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:01h, 14 AprilThank you Karen! What gets me is that high end is not necessarily high end anymore 😉
I received a Brother machine for Christmas which I wanted just for the buttonholer.
Marilyn
Posted at 07:25h, 13 AprilAbsolutely gorgeous! !!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:01h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Marilyn!
Sarah Jo
Posted at 07:26h, 13 AprilBeautiful!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:02h, 14 AprilMany thanks, Sarah Jo 🙂
Manju
Posted at 07:29h, 13 AprilThis pattern (along with a couple of other shirt dress patterns from simolicity) are on my summer sewing list. LOVE your version Sarah.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:05h, 14 AprilThank you, Manju! I’m considering a denim shirtdress after seeing yours – don’t know if I can handle all of the topstitching 😉
Emily
Posted at 07:37h, 13 AprilBetter than a $300+ dress! Priceless and beautiful!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:13h, 14 AprilThank you, Emily!
mandy cantarella
Posted at 07:43h, 13 AprilThis shirt dress is amazing. You look absolutely fantastic. I love the pattern and the fabric is beautiful. Truly inspiring.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:14h, 14 AprilMany thanks, Mandy! Some projects, but certainly not all, come together just like one imagines 🙂
RTrittel
Posted at 07:43h, 13 AprilWhat a lovely dress – you are ready for summer! I am currently working on a shirtdress as well – McCalls 7084 in a cotton sateen. I actually have already tagged McCalls 6885 as my next shirtdress – this is the summer of shirt dresses for me! Is that your Brother machine in the video? I had no idea it would automatically repeat the buttonhole again – thanks for the info.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:17h, 14 AprilThank you so much and I really like the pattern you are making! Correct – it is my Brother machine, and I had no idea it would repeat the buttonhole either – wonder what else this little machine can do ? 😉
Rachel Seed
Posted at 07:50h, 13 AprilWow – looks stunning. I’ve got my second Grainline Alder cut out ready to sew. I prefer a more streamlined shape so I might be tempted to give this pattern a go after seeing your version.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:18h, 14 AprilThank you, Rachel! I really liked the lines of this dress and it was perfect for silk 😉
Becky Bagwell
Posted at 07:52h, 13 AprilLooks great and the colors are perfect for you! Love your button choice!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:18h, 14 AprilThank you, Becky!
Sew Jean Margaret
Posted at 08:26h, 13 AprilBeautiful fabric which you have now transformed into a gorgeous shirt dress. So much better than RTW,
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:20h, 14 AprilMany thanks, Jean 🙂 Just goes to show what we can do when we try, huh?
Joyce Love
Posted at 08:37h, 13 AprilBeautiful dress, & I totally agree with your comments about the declining quality of ready to wear!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:22h, 14 AprilThank you, Joyce! I can hardly believe the decline in some of the lines. I don’t know if it is due to trying to expand the companies to global proportions or just cutting costs, but it is disheartening ;(
Julie Starr
Posted at 08:49h, 13 AprilProof positive that we home sewists can sew circles around overpriced RTW any day! A glorious dress you’ve sewn, Sarah! The fabric, special touches and gold buttons are all superb. Great tip on the reinforced buttonholes. Mine always look so skimpy on the thread so I’m definitely trying this next time.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:24h, 14 AprilThank you, Julie! The advantage RTW has over home sewers is customized fabric and trim for their lines. Just imagine if we had access to all of their resources 🙂
Karen Mulkey
Posted at 08:58h, 13 AprilBeautiful shirtdress and think you picked the right fabric. Thanks for the buttonhole tip!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:25h, 14 AprilMany thanks, Karen! Read on for more buttonhole tips from readers!
Brenda Everett
Posted at 08:59h, 13 AprilLove this style for spring!! I have Simplicity 2246 which is a Lisette pattern and have sewn it twice. Once view C for my daughter and then view B for myself just recently in plaid flannel. It’s a great little dress.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:28h, 14 AprilThank you, Brenda! What an adorable pattern – love both views you have made 🙂
Deborah Penner
Posted at 09:02h, 13 AprilWhat a lovely shirt dress! Yes, RTW has really gotten worse in the last 5 years or so. They skimp on quality and fabric, even in some of the most expensive brands. You would think that they have learned that consumers have moved away from the idea of “throw way” fashion.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:30h, 14 AprilYou would certainly think that in the more exclusive lines, but I suppose bottom line surpasses everything else 🙁
Many thanks for the comment, Deborah!
Patricia Brown
Posted at 09:15h, 13 AprilWhat a beautiful shirt dress! I love the colors and the style. You have inspired me to sew one for the Spring and Summer seasons. Aren’t you glad that you were able to resist the temptation of buying a shirt dress for over $300?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:31h, 14 AprilThank you, Patricia! I’m glad that I not only resisted the temptation, but that I had a choice to sew my own 🙂 🙂
Amanda S.
Posted at 09:22h, 13 AprilGreat minds think alike! I am currently working on a shirtdress with a shaped hemline. It’s such a fun look! Lovely fabric and I like how you used the contrast fabric on the inside bits.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:34h, 14 AprilHi Amanda! This is definitely one fun dress – if I had to make it over again, I would redesign the hem to have less difference from the lower edge to the side, but that’s just me. Look forward to seeing your dress!
MaryEllen
Posted at 09:46h, 13 AprilYour version is stunning ! You have such a knack for matching fabric & pattern . I’m adding a shirt dress to my sewing list – great job !!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:35h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Maryellen!
Caroline Gilham
Posted at 09:59h, 13 AprilWhat a great dress and sooo much better than the ready-to-wear option. You are to be commended on a fabulous piece of work.
Caroline, Hampshire, England
Art Attack
Posted at 10:24h, 13 AprilSarah,
What an adorable shirtdress! All of your choices are so perfect and that silk! It’s just beautiful!
xo,
😀
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:35h, 14 AprilThank you, Dorcas!
Marina Villalobos
Posted at 10:46h, 13 AprilCongratulations on another beautiful and well-fitted garment. I love shirtwaists and have made quite a few. The wearer always looks “put together” and they can be dressed up or down, depending on the accessories. I’m always trying out different patterns, so I don’t have a favorite. The one you made is in my stash, so I think I’ll give it a whirl. I hope mine turns out as well as yours.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:38h, 14 AprilMany thanks, Marina! I agree with you regarding the versatile looks a shirtdress provides. I hope to see your upcoming dress soon 🙂
Margene Yeaton
Posted at 10:50h, 13 AprilBeautiful! Bet Ruth is thrilled to see this silk worked into a wonderful shirt dress, one that is way above RTW. Great tip to sew the buttonhole twice! Looking forward to #10!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:38h, 14 AprilThank you, Margene! Read on for more buttonhole tips from readers 🙂
Anne Beecroft
Posted at 11:04h, 13 AprilFabulous and inspiring shirtdress! The double sewn buttonholes were made using your Brother sewing machine?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:39h, 14 AprilThank you, Anne! Yes, I used my Brother machine – read on for more buttonhole tips from readers 🙂
Cissie Wellons
Posted at 11:44h, 13 AprilWow! You have managed to create a beautiful dress that you could never find in RTW — at any price. That pop of green is icing on the cake!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:41h, 14 AprilThank you, Cissie! For some strange reason I ordered 1/2 yard of chartruese crepe de chine a couple of years ago…….. not sure what I had in mind, but was happy to put it to good use 🙂
Lisa Watson
Posted at 11:44h, 13 AprilYou have every right to gush and be excited! Your shirtdress looks fantastic on you. There is something so soul satisfying in creating a piece that is uniquely yours and is better than the overpriced shoddy garments in the store. Congratulations on a real success!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:42h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Lisa 🙂 You hit the nail on the head – soul satisfying!
Carolyn
Posted at 11:44h, 13 AprilWhat a wonderful garment. I remember as a teenager (many moons ago) a friend of my mothers returned from a trip to the East with a shirt dress made from a sari…I still remember the wonderful colors. Your choice of pattern embraces the beautiful fabric and the fit is perfect..
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:44h, 14 AprilI’d love to see the sari shirtdress, Carolyn! Funny how some things make lasting impressions on us 🙂
Many thanks for your comment!
Melanie
Posted at 11:57h, 13 AprilLove it! I have been sifting through my shirt dress patterns lately, and like others have said, I think this is my summer of the shirt dress — I have McCalls 6696 and Simplicity 2246 in my sights.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:46h, 14 AprilThank you, Melanie! Other readers have mentioned these patterns, both of which are really cute – good luck!
Marnie Keith
Posted at 12:19h, 13 AprilDarling and it looks so good on you! When double stitching buttonholes, if you can adjust the width of your stitch – stitch the first go around in a narrower zig-zag then adjust the stitch width back to your regular setting and stitch over the narrow zig-zag with the wider zig-zag. Smooth, strong, and very pretty! Many a shirt-dress in my Spring sewing stack!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:47h, 14 AprilMany thanks for this most helpful comment, Marine! I’ll definitely give it a try 🙂
Barbara Christensen
Posted at 13:27h, 13 AprilI remember my high school home ec teacher telling us any buttonhole had to be done at least twice. A third time sometimes necessary too. We had Singer slant needle machines. She said once around was not strong enough and would never look nice. She was a great teacher. This was in the 60’s.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:48h, 14 AprilAha! I knew I didn’t originate this technique. Thanks for passing along your teacher’s advice, Barbara!
Maggie Edger
Posted at 16:01h, 13 AprilGreat dress and fabric is wonderful!!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:49h, 14 AprilThank you, Maggie!!
Cheryl Scott
Posted at 16:04h, 13 AprilGreat tip about the buttonholes and a gorgeous shirt dress!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:49h, 14 AprilMany thanks, Cheryl!
Margo
Posted at 16:09h, 13 AprilLove this Sarah! Gorgeous fabric! I like your idea of a separate tie…
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:50h, 14 AprilMany thanks, Margo 🙂 May I say I absolutely Adore your colorblocked dress which I just saw this morning – can’t wait to read your post!
Rose Britton
Posted at 17:00h, 13 AprilBeautiful fabric and superb workmanship certainly exceed value for the RTW!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:52h, 14 AprilLOL – more like beautiful fabric and blood, sweat and tears 😉
Many thanks, Rose!
Gerhild
Posted at 17:02h, 13 AprilLove it, love it, love it. And I especially love the idea of using a different fabric for the underside of the placket. Very stylish.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:52h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Gerhild!
Lucy
Posted at 17:04h, 13 AprilBeautiful shirtdress Sarah! As someone said “Sew your own clothes, save thousands of dollars”.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:53h, 14 AprilWho on earth would say something like that?
Judith Cortelloni
Posted at 19:42h, 13 AprilYour execution of the design is remarkable. The dress is very eye catching. Great look!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:53h, 14 AprilMany thanks for your nice comment, Judith!
Jennifer Shaw
Posted at 20:03h, 13 AprilUndoubtedly, you have created another gorgeous dress!! The best part was that your dear friend Ruth gave you the sublime fabrics. With your talent, I bet that it was easy to make this beauty of a dress. Any thoughts on what your plans are for the other fabrics? I love your shoes!! Is there any chance that you can tell where your found your fabulous shoes?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:57h, 14 AprilThank you, Jennifer! I might make a jacket with the black and cream but am undecided about the fabric on the left.
My shoes are Stuart Weitzman. I bought these in 2014 and it has taken TWO YEARS to break in these shoes! You might see more of them now that I can actually wear them 🙂
Tomasa
Posted at 20:35h, 13 AprilBeautiful dress. I love the lively colors of the fabric.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:58h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Tomasa! Not only are the colors lively, but the design is very forgiving – a perfect combination 🙂
Mary Russell
Posted at 20:44h, 13 AprilI sometimes do buttonholes that way but I’ve found a way that I might like better. I use two spools of thread and do the buttonhole once.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:59h, 14 AprilWhat a great piece of advice, Mary! Thank you 🙂
Autumn
Posted at 21:38h, 13 AprilWow – I love this on you! I would have never guessed looking at the fabric first -but these colors look so pretty on you – I think it is my favorite thing you have ever made!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:00h, 14 AprilFunny – when Ruth gave me the fabric, she suggested lining a jacket with the silk 😉
I’m glad I made the dress and it is one of my favorites too.
Many thanks for your comment, Autumn!
Sana Bharani
Posted at 00:53h, 14 AprilLove that dress. I admire the way you pick a design and find the suitable material and go ahead and make it. Very focused. I usually leaving my dress making to the last minute, pick some material and make something in a hurry. Seeing your results, i am inspired to change my habits.
Thanks so much.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:02h, 14 AprilThank you so much,, Sana! I am not always organized but I have learned that being in a hurry and sewing are not compatible 🙂
Beverly
Posted at 03:24h, 14 AprilI have signed up for a beginner’s sewing class which starts next week (in another language to boot — I am an expat living in Sweden) — exciting but a little scary!! I have gotten lots of great inspiration from your blog, including this beautiful dress. Many thanks for sharing all of the sewing tips and adventures!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:04h, 14 AprilThank you so much for your comment, Beverly! I think that would be most exciting and wish you the best of luck in your class. You’ll definitely learn more than how to sew 🙂
Carolyn
Posted at 06:21h, 14 AprilI love your new shirtdress especially how you added the solid color to the buttonhole placket! Great work!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:05h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Carolyn. Sometimes those random pieces of fabric come in handy!
Laura Casey
Posted at 08:45h, 14 AprilOh Sara, a beautiful make indeed….and that’s the next dress I plan on making as well! Same pattern, so happy to see “it in person” I love the version with the wide band around the bottom too., mine will be from a linen and something, charcoal-sleeveless for a River cruise in Europe this summer….your addition of darts in the back of the dress was brilliant….I wasn’t into that little tie thingie they showed.
Yes, I’ll have a pic on RTW once I finish this turquoise shirt that I’m in the middle of……Have a good day, Sarah….LAURA
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:37h, 14 AprilThank you, Laura! A European river cruise sounds fabulous! Can’t wait to see your dress 🙂
Kathie Bennett
Posted at 09:51h, 14 AprilLove this dress! I wish I could shop in your closet!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:37h, 14 AprilAnytime, Kathie!!
Kathleen
Posted at 18:29h, 14 AprilI just love that you made a shirt dress in silk! Gorgeous 🙂 I’ve never made one and to be honest it still feels above my grade – I think I’d better sew a shirt first although I guess it doesn’t really matter 🙂 Great idea about the back darts – I prefer that shaping to a tie around the waist. Beautiful fit and it hangs so nicely. I remember wearing so many shirt dresses back in the late sixties and seventies and just loved them. You’ve inspired me!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:40h, 14 AprilThank you so much, Kathleen for your nice comment. In my opinion, shirts aren’t the easiest to make, but the difficulty in sewing skills vary and I’m sure you can find an easier one to start with Good luck 🙂
Susan Fogel
Posted at 08:29h, 15 AprilBaja Susana said… (4/15/16 at 8:25 AM) Reply
I love a shirt dress especially in hot weather.myour fabric is reminiscent of early Pucci designs. I have always gone around twice on buttonholes when Imused my old Singer. I just tried this with my Janome that has the same kind of foot as yours, and it worked perfectly. I only just tried this a few weeks ago,many there you are doing it as well. I also,like to use details like a contrasting sleeve placket, and nicely sewn sleeve tabs.These are fine details not readily noticeable by others, but give me pleasure. A lovely dress, and well accessorized. Well done.
I appreciate it that you add details to your blog post that are not on PR. So that there is different info . The effort is appreciated.
I did shudder when Inheard you say “… A RTW dress that I almost bought…”
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 10:35h, 15 AprilThank you so much Susan for your comment! I almost bought the RTW dress because I just loved the fabric! Seeing the real thing was a blessing.
funny about those buttonholes…… I’ve received several comments about buttonhole techniques with variations on what I did – can’t wait to try them! 🙂
Sharon
Posted at 09:38h, 15 AprilBeautiful garment and the fabric is gorgeous. I’m sure your friend is delighted to see what you’ve done with it. I like the style of the pattern too. Good tip to double stitch the button holes. I’ve also heard using a heavier thread can add stability to a button hole.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 10:36h, 15 AprilMany thanks Sharon for your comment! I’ve heard the tip to use a heavier thread, but the heavier threads seem to be available in limited colors 😉
Elaine
Posted at 09:48h, 15 AprilLove this shirtdress. I have the pattern as I usually stock up when they are $0.99 or $1.99 and am considering giving it a try.
Are you only doing buttonholes on your new machine? Am I correct in thinking that your PR profile says that you have a Bernina 1230 as you main machine. I have an earlier version, the 1130, and I do love it, but as I age the newer machines seem to have features that I would really like — e.g. brighter light, automatic threading, and probably many more that I don’t even realize.. Your thoughts? I did some online machine shopping after you posted that you had a new machine. Except for some brands, it is almost impossible to compare prices without going to stores or calling for prices and that gets confusing.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:20h, 19 AprilHi Elaine and thank your for your comment!
I do have a Bernina 1230. When I received the machine it was state of the art and fully computerized. I still use it and it is a great machine.
My new machine is a Brother PC420 which I wanted due to its buttonhole capabilities – and you are right – auto threading, brighter lights etc…. are fantastic. The machine is not particularly expensive and is a fabulous supplement to the Bernina. Good luck 🙂
TracyK
Posted at 22:08h, 15 AprilI love your silk shirtdess! I made the same view in lightweight denim a while back and it is so comfortable. I skipped the tie completely and wear mine with a leather belt. I might have to make another one in silk. Thanks for the lovely inspiration!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:16h, 19 AprilMany thanks, Tracy! I’m considering a denim dress too 🙂
Susan Balcirak
Posted at 18:49h, 17 AprilHi! I love following your blog! I’m trying my first shirt with plackets at sleeves and neck and trying to figure out how to sew those with you tube so I was eyeing the beautifully done details on your shirt dress! Also was wondering if you could recommend any adjustable dress forms that you have liked? Are you allowed to do that here? Thanks!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:15h, 19 AprilThank you, Susan and good luck with your shirt! I’ve just ordered a Singer adjustable dress form. It arrived last week and so far so good. I like it because it has more dials than others I’ve seen and was on sale on the Singer website for $89!
Previously I used a dress form that was 30 years old and did not represent my shape any longer. I replaced it with a Dritz which was a disaster. I ordered a Petite and it came with NO shoulders and NO bust.
After you get your dress form adjusted to your shape be sure and cover it with a dress form cover. 🙂
Pam
Posted at 03:03h, 18 AprilAbsolutely love this and the fabric is beautiful
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 07:10h, 19 AprilThank you so much, Pam!
Aminat P
Posted at 14:53h, 19 AprilThis is absolutely beautiful…. I have this pattern in my stash and will be making one pretty soon..
Love the fabric choice and your blog is so full of inspiring projects.
Thanks for sharing.
Rebecca Elwell
Posted at 16:19h, 09 SeptemberI really like this pattern! Nice dress and I like your improvements. I would like your opinion on whether it’s possible to change the bottom skirt wider more swirly.