Butterick 5917 – The Un-Preppy Version

28 Aug Butterick 5917 – The Un-Preppy Version

After all of my carrying on about colorful clothes, I’m back in black.

 I enjoyed sewing Butterick 5917 so much I had my second version planned before finishing the madras patchwork version (blogged here), and I’m tempted to make it again!

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 I envisioned this pattern as a black dress from the beginning and used a black textured French polyester/cotton taffeta from Tessuti. The fabric certainly highlights the dressier details of the pattern and gives the dress a more structured appearance.  I believe this is the fabric featured in the most recent Tessuti contest for a knee-length formal dress, but I think the dobby-spotted texture brings about the versatility to dress it up or down.

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However the fabric is viewed, I’ve got a new transitional dress on two levels….

 Summer into Fall   —  and —  Smart-casual to dressy depending the accessories.

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 This time around I made some changes which affected the construction process.

  • added an invisible zipper
  • lined the entire dress
  • reduced the shoulder width by an inch.

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I found the pattern ran slightly large, particularly in the upper bodice  – I crossed my fingers and cut a size smaller hoping to achieve a fitted garment.

It fits as long as I don’t eat too much while wearing 😉

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Indeed, I’m very pleased with the result and am saving it for a special occasion in September. But now I’m thinking about version Number 3 and I’m going to go all out with this Marc Jacobs silk brocade.

Upon seeing the madras patchwork dress, one reader suggested I change the design to eliminate the neckline ruffle and add a ruffle across the front tab. I’m intrigued with this idea which would be feminine but would also diminish some of the fru-fru. What do you think?

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Regardless of my decision for dress number 3, I’m truly thrilled to have found an uncomplicated pattern that speaks to my taste and style. It’s definitely calling my name ONE MORE TIME!

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goodbyevalentino
goodbyevalentino@gmail.com
108 Comments
  • karen
    Posted at 18:57h, 28 August Reply

    This such a pretty dress. No one would ever thought you made it. I can see why you would want a third.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 17:19h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Karen! I would want a fourth too but I must show some restraint 🙂 🙂

  • Anne Rhodes
    Posted at 19:08h, 28 August Reply

    This pattern definetly has your name on it! Both #1 and #2 look fantastic! Bring on #3 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 17:20h, 29 August Reply

      Many thanks, Anne! Number three is a few weeks away but coming…….. 🙂 🙂

  • Joan
    Posted at 19:18h, 28 August Reply

    Great dress! I just passed on this pattern at Joanne’s two days ago (even though I saw you in your madras version), and now feel that I made a mistake. It is so interesting how seeing a design on paper vs. on the figure alters one’s perception of the design. On paper, the “frou frou” aspect weighs more heavily on me, but it really is flattering (sexy yet not revealing, which I really like), and the ruffled neckline seems much more flattering than a flat neckline band would be (too hard and linear). I like the idea of the ruffle across the tab — please try it for us!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:38h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Joan! I believe the reader with the suggestion saw an Anne Klein dress in this style without the ruffle. Trying one on would certainly help the decision making process! 😉

  • wanda ll
    Posted at 19:20h, 28 August Reply

    This is the cutest dress.. You did a wonderful job on the plaid and the black one. I can’t wait to see the next one. You look really, really nice in it too. The length is just right too.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:40h, 29 August Reply

      Hi Wanda! Thank you sooo much for such a nice comment. The dress was 1/2″ shorter and I thought it was too short….. amazing what a difference a half an inch can make 😉

  • Mrs K
    Posted at 19:41h, 28 August Reply

    Such a beautiful dress and you wear it so well! May I ask who plays the piano behind you?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:41h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Mrs. K! That would be me and both of my daughters who play the piano. I majored in music in college and they studied piano through high school 🙂 🙂

  • Mrs K
    Posted at 19:43h, 28 August Reply

    Such a pretty dress and you wear it so well! May I ask who plays the piano behind you? This is my second try at a post – first one didn’t “take” ?

  • carolinascallin
    Posted at 19:48h, 28 August Reply

    Sarah, this is wonderful! Isn’t it fun how much the ‘look’ changes depending on what fabric you choose. The two dresses you’ve made from this pattern are miles apart – yet made from the same pattern! Love the way you can dress this one up or down. I almost picked this up, but my arms aren’t in as good a shape as yours – yet! Might be a good incentive 😉

    Can’t wait to see what you do with #3!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:44h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Cheryl! You would look great in this dress so I hope you’ll consider the pattern 😉 I am constantly amazed by how much a small change of any type affects the end result!

  • Susan Green
    Posted at 20:01h, 28 August Reply

    I am most definantly not a fru-fru person and wear so much black that I’ve been accused of still holding wakes for Johnny Cash, so when I tell you I love the black “version” of your dress and don’t think the ruffles are too “fru-fru” I mean it. Just stunning!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:45h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you so much, Susan! Black ruffles are different than say……. pink ruffles 😉

  • lisa g
    Posted at 20:14h, 28 August Reply

    gorgeous! this makes a great black dress!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:45h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Lisa G – you need to sew this pattern for yourself!

  • Cissie Wellons
    Posted at 20:24h, 28 August Reply

    Love, love, love this dress! I am a true sucker for classic LBD’s and this is one! I think the ruffles keep it from looking like so many LBD’s and take it up a notch. The fabric is great, too. I also think that the fit on this is even better than on the preppy version. Of course, this is what I call a “stand up” dress — as in, don’t even think about sitting down and scarfing down a big plate of fried chicken! Can’t wait to see your brocade version.

    Another pattern in my ever-growing wish list!

  • Reader
    Posted at 20:25h, 28 August Reply

    It’s very handsome and versatile. I enjoy seeing the different variations. I think the neckline ruffle adds to the dress’s charm and is not overly twee.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:47h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Reader! You just taught me a new word — twee 😉 I like the neckline ruffle too for many reasons – it frames the face and chest nicely and is perfect for wearing jewelry 😉

  • gingermakes
    Posted at 21:01h, 28 August Reply

    This is so lovely! It’s such a fun spin on the LBD! I loooove that brocade– your next version is going to be fabulous! I love the idea of changing it up and doing a ruffle (or a flattened pleat detail even, ooh!) across the tab to have a different look!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:54h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Ginger! Just seeing your name makes me want that crepe de chine you last sewed. Oooohhhh……… awwhhhh…….. I like it , I like it 🙂

  • myrosesindecember
    Posted at 21:04h, 28 August Reply

    Another success. I loved the Madras one and I love this one and I think this dress will also be exquisite in the silk brocade. This pattern has just gone onto my wish list as I think this is a dress which is very versatile, as you have shown us. I cannot wear black but I am already seeing this maybe in gray, or hunter green. I think the ruffle, as it is, is what sets this dress apart, and I, for one, would not change it at all. I can hardly wait to see version #3. Great job.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:55h, 29 August Reply

      Myrosesindecember – I think this dress would be stunning in any color and I hope you will give it a try 😉 Many thanks for your comment!

  • Cheryl Scott
    Posted at 21:28h, 28 August Reply

    I’m really glad I found this blog. You prove that we can express our creativity via dressmaking without sacrificing style or quality! Love this dress. I shared it on FB, the consensus seems to be ‘classy.’ Thanks for sharing!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:56h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you so much, Cheryl for your comment and for sharing the dress with others! Two years ago I was absolutely determined to sew stylish clothes. Hopefully I’m getting there!

  • Gjeometry
    Posted at 21:32h, 28 August Reply

    Oh, this is definitely not preppy, but very sexy! Looks great, I loved this pattern when you sewed and blogged it the first time, as well.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:57h, 29 August Reply

      Many thanks, Gjeometry! It would look good on you, too!

  • Alethia
    Posted at 21:41h, 28 August Reply

    This is such a great looking dress, and the fit is beautiful! I love the Marc Jacobs fabric that you are going to work with next…GORGEOUS! And, NO, leave the ruffles…very flattering. I love that pattern just the way it is! 😉

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:59h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Alethia! I value the comments I receive especially when I’m asking for an opinion 😉

  • Judie
    Posted at 21:51h, 28 August Reply

    Love this version of the dress. It’s definitely a perfect pattern for you. For the brocade version, what about a pleated “ruffle” made from silk organza across the tab?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 18:59h, 29 August Reply

      Hi Judie – I love the idea of a pleated ruffle! Thank you 🙂 🙂

  • Sarah Ioannides
    Posted at 22:07h, 28 August Reply

    Love this!!!!!

    “Engage, protect and sustain our musical heritage; the return is invaluable” – Sarah Ioannides http://www.sarahioannides.net Connect with Sarah on Facebook and Twitter!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:00h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Sarah! You would be beautiful in this pattern!

  • Julie Starr
    Posted at 22:24h, 28 August Reply

    Bravo, Sarah! I didn’t think this could look any better than your madras version but look how perfectly it lends itself to cocktail attire. What a versatile personality his pattern has. The brocade looks dreamy and will make a truly luxe dress.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:01h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Julie! I believe the possibilities of this pattern surpass my imagination ! 😉

  • Lori
    Posted at 22:27h, 28 August Reply

    This is such a pretty dress, Sarah and it looks so stunning on you.

  • Dilliander
    Posted at 23:13h, 28 August Reply

    This pattern really does look great on you, as do ruffles, and the Tessuti fabric is perfect for this style. I like the option of eliminating the neckline ruffle and adding a ruffle across the front tab for another version too. A lovely dress!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:02h, 29 August Reply

      Many thanks, Dilliander! Your garments always turn out so very nicely – I’m certainly going to sleep on your opinion 😉 🙂 🙂

  • Sarah Liz
    Posted at 23:33h, 28 August Reply

    This looks really lovely on you – it is important to wear the style that is “you”. I love this on you as well – colour, shape, feminine ruffle – it suits you, as you have remarked. I fell in love with this pattern too.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:05h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Sarah Liz! Might you consider this pattern for yourself? You’d look fab in it!

      • Sarah Liz
        Posted at 01:33h, 31 August Reply

        Yes, I have, and am waiting for it to arrive here! Yours looks so nice…

  • Mary Kay Reynolds
    Posted at 00:12h, 29 August Reply

    I like the ruffle. What about making it a bit narrower? Someone also suggested a pleated one (for more of a tailored look). The dress fits you really well and I love your choice of black fabric.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:06h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Mary Kay! I do like the idea of a narrower ruffle…… and I had not considered that idea at all – many thanks for the suggestion!

      • Joan
        Posted at 19:12h, 29 August Reply

        Sarah, I’m sure you will work this through when you proceed with the lovely yellow/cream brocade, but the heaviness of that fabric likely will encourage you to change the ruffle detail in some way: a contrasting, lighter fabric, across the tab only, pleated rather than gathered, etc. It seems to me that the brocade simply will require a different treatment (and then will look unlike the other two ;-} )

  • Cindy
    Posted at 00:56h, 29 August Reply

    Oh, this is a STUNNING dress! Using a business suit looking fabric and then ruffling it is just outrageously sexy. Men love that. And the fabric’s texture provides great visual interest and makes this a real standout. This pattern or a similar one would also look stunning in a pure blood red linen — a true, blue-toned lipstick red.

    Once again, you’ve made a beautifully fitted, one-of-a-kind beauty. Congratulations!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:07h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Cindy! Per your suggestion, a fourth dress might be coming 😉

      • Cindy
        Posted at 05:32h, 30 August Reply

        That was a double-dog dare! ;=D

  • Pauline (pdiddly)
    Posted at 02:53h, 29 August Reply

    beautiful dress and I am so tempted to buy this pattern.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:07h, 29 August Reply

      Buy it, Pauline! You would look so pretty in this dress 🙂

  • Sandra (Sewist-Stitch)
    Posted at 04:45h, 29 August Reply

    You just made this dress move up my sewing list, now that spring is on the way. Great dress – I love the black version.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:56h, 29 August Reply

      Ah, to live in New Zealand! Spring and Summer are my favorite sewing seasons – you’re going to have fun! Many thanks for the comment, Sandra 🙂

  • AllisonC
    Posted at 06:50h, 29 August Reply

    I’m sure you are helping to shift a lot of this pattern! Personally I really like the “fru fru”, i don’t think it’s too much at all, both versions are lovely and still quite different to each other. Plenty of room in your wardrobe for a 3rd version!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 19:58h, 29 August Reply

      Many thanks, Allison for your valuable opinion! I like fru fur too….. just don’t want to overdo it!

  • Sharon
    Posted at 07:30h, 29 August Reply

    Gorgeous dress love both versions and the 3rd will be just as stunning.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:02h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Sharon! Fingers are crossed for version number 3 🙂

  • Beth
    Posted at 07:48h, 29 August Reply

    Love the LBD. You look great in it. Keep the full neck ruffle, it just makes the dress. I am afraid a ruffle just across the inset would look like a baby bib. IMO

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:03h, 29 August Reply

      Many thanks for your helpful comment, Beth! The beauty of this dress is that i can try it both ways before making a decision 🙂 🙂

  • Donna
    Posted at 08:10h, 29 August Reply

    Gorgeous……both you and your dress! 🙂 I may have to give that pattern a try.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:03h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you so much Beth for your nice comment! I hope you give the pattern a try – definitely a keeper 😉

  • Jean
    Posted at 08:44h, 29 August Reply

    This is a stunning LBD, so classy. Quite different from your first version, but I love it just as much. Looking forward to the third one. This style suits you so well.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:11h, 29 August Reply

      Many thanks, Jean! I do love this pattern and can only hope another will come along to replace it before I overuse it 😉

  • Lana
    Posted at 09:21h, 29 August Reply

    Really cute dress. I love it. I need to purchase this pattern.

  • Catty
    Posted at 09:25h, 29 August Reply

    I know for sure this pattern will be flying off the shelves after your two beautiful dresses! I can’t tell you how much I enjoy and look forward to your posts! Thank you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:12h, 29 August Reply

      Catty – Thank you so much for your nice comment! I’ve really loved sewing again not to mention blogging 🙂 🙂

  • missmarys
    Posted at 09:31h, 29 August Reply

    The new fabric is STUNNING.

  • missmarys
    Posted at 09:34h, 29 August Reply

    The elegance of the new fabric doesn’t need ruffles. I just bet it would look lovely in a Kay Unger Vogue http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1182-products-11090.php?page_id=1261

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:13h, 29 August Reply

      You know what? I have this pattern and will certainly consider it. Many thanks!

  • Jackie
    Posted at 09:58h, 29 August Reply

    Another beautiful dress and looks outstanding on you! This is such a nice selection for early fall.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:14h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Jackie! I plan to wear it a lot this fall 😉

  • Marjorie Devlin
    Posted at 10:43h, 29 August Reply

    The dresses are beautiful! I just tried on the exact same style at Dillard’s the other day. I wish I could remember the brand. It was made out of a light blue and white pinstripe. I just love it when I see clothing that look like RTW! You did a wonderful job and they look fabulous on you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:16h, 29 August Reply

      Thank you, Marjorie! Lilly Pulitzer also feature a line of dresses in this pattern as did Vineyard Vines 🙂 I too LOVE sewing a pattern that I see in RTW ……. the same seaon!

  • Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
    Posted at 11:15h, 29 August Reply

    I agree, super cute and a pattern you could modify to get different looks.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:17h, 29 August Reply

      Thanks, Beth! I think the dress has infinite possibilities 🙂 🙂

  • Janine Whisler
    Posted at 11:49h, 29 August Reply

    I love this style of dress/top on you, the ruffle is so you. How about pleating the ruffle around the neck, instead of gathering it? Or, instead of a ruffle you could add a band in the same width, perhaps in a contrast fabric?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:18h, 29 August Reply

      Hi Janinie! I love the idea of a pleated ruffle! Many thanks for the comment 🙂

  • Joanie
    Posted at 12:02h, 29 August Reply

    jUST BEAUTIFUL AS ALWAYS. LOOK THE WAY YOU LOOK IN THIS (THESE) DRESS (DRESSES). GRANDDAUGHTERS HAVE RETURNED TO SCHOOL, SO PLEASE KEEP INSPIRING ME TO RE-ENTER MY SEWING ADDICTION.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 20:19h, 29 August Reply

      Hi Joanie! You’re right…… it’s the perfect time to return to sewing….. regardless on addictions 😉

  • Martin Partlan (@martinpartlan)
    Posted at 13:37h, 29 August Reply

    It fits you perfectly. Beautiful work.

  • Kay
    Posted at 18:28h, 29 August Reply

    It is beautiful!!

  • Corinne
    Posted at 21:46h, 29 August Reply

    Great dress! I loved the madras patchwork version too but the black gives it a whole different look. And I say DO IT! for the silk brocade – it’s gorgeous! As for the ruffles, I personally like them. Looking forward to seeing version 3! 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:43h, 30 August Reply

      Thank you, Corrine! I feel the same way – I can wear the madras with flip-flops, but this fabric takes it to another level. I’ll try to raise the bar one more time 🙂 🙂

  • CarolO
    Posted at 11:50h, 30 August Reply

    I don’t know how I stumbled upon your blog yesterday but I wasn’t able to stop viewing until I got back to August 2011. I used to sew cloths for myself, but living with 3 men (2 sons and a DH), my attention turned to Halloween costumes, indoor tents, and occasional home decor, and most recently my love of quilting. The youngest started college last week and you have inspired me to turn the attention back to my wardrobe. Thanks gbv!

  • boonetowneseamsta
    Posted at 21:30h, 30 August Reply

    Love this dress!!!! You have inspired me! I bought the pattern yesterday and plan to give it a go this weekend! Thanks for such a wonderful blog!!

  • Wendy Karnish
    Posted at 09:50h, 31 August Reply

    Hi Sarah,
    I’m new to your blog, and have been enjoying reading about and seeing you in all your lovely creations. I am a designer, and more recently a sewing and patternmaking teacher. While I think you look wonderful in this little black dress, I have some picky-picky comments that I would make if you were in my class, or my client. The smaller size bodice does fit better, but then the under-bust gathers add a fullness that you don’t need, creating a second bust area. From one side view, it looks like you have droopy boobs, which you certainly DO NOT!!! When you make this pattern again, I wonder if you might turn the gathers into a series of darts. Also, you are slimmer thru the hips and thighs than the dress shows, and might be taken in a bit.
    Keep up the good work! It’s a pleasure to see your smiling face with your beautiful clothes!!
    Thank you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:16h, 31 August Reply

      Thanks Wendy – I appreciate the comments from a trained eye. I won’t make another one until I consult with you 🙂

  • Pam
    Posted at 09:31h, 01 September Reply

    I am crazy about this pattern. I bought it after seeing your madras version and thought it woul also be perfect in a dressier material- and now here you are with just that! It’s beautiful.

  • Cindy
    Posted at 10:54h, 02 September Reply

    Here’s another ruffle variation to try on one of your delicious creations someday:

    http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/08/31/queen-rania-style-photos_n_3848524.html?utm_hp_ref=style&ir=Style

    Apparently there is no end to creative ways to ruffle up a garment!

    • Cindy
      Posted at 19:37h, 02 September Reply

      Oh, sorry, it’s slide #15.

  • Sue Lansberry
    Posted at 19:29h, 02 September Reply

    I couldn’t fingure out how to comment. I wanta try for an aprpm ….Sue Lansberry

  • scotti69
    Posted at 19:31h, 02 September Reply

    I want to put my name in the hat for an apron

  • olynda52
    Posted at 08:24h, 04 September Reply

    Love this pattern!! Cut it out last night. hope to make it soon.

  • AnaJan Stepalica
    Posted at 04:12h, 21 September Reply

    I’ve just discovered your blog, and I really like what I’ve seen so far! This dress is just gorgeous, and it fits you like a glove. Usually I’m not a big fan of ruffles, but the ones on your neckline (they’re knife pleats, right?) look sophisticated and not overwhelming for my liking. Really pretty.
    I’ve also noticed you use the colors that really suit your complexion (I’ve been obsessed with seasonal coloring lately), so well done for that as well.

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    Posted at 20:19h, 24 April Reply

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