Butterick 5526

25 Mar Butterick 5526

I’m very pleased to take part in Style Maker Fabrics‘ Spring Blog Tour! Michelle’s latest fabrics represent the best of Spring with fresh palettes and designs in many fabric types.

The Pretty in Pink Gingham Check Cotton Shirting caught my eye and my love of classics kicked in.


As much as I love sewing specialty garments, I wholeheartedly believe the key to sewing a successful wardrobe is constructing pieces one will wear over and over again, which begins with the classics. Classic garments are designed to flatter everyone when properly fitted, and of course that’s one of my chief reasons for sewing.

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During my heavy duty RTW days, I was convinced that I could not wear button down shirts, but I was wrong.

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Not only can I wear a button down shirt, but I LOVE wearing these classic garments. The concept of ‘classic clothing’ is sometimes  misunderstood and translated into uninteresting basics. Not true!


However, I believe after perfecting the fit, it’s important to make the garment work for you.

From my stash I pulled Butterick 5526, a pattern I’ve sewn before, but this time I customized the pattern for a better fit and enhanced visual interest. It’s an easy pattern with no bust darts and a relaxed fit.

ButterickBias cut checks are fun to work with, but my pattern did not have a separate front band. After removing the foldover band from the bodice front pattern piece, I created a separate band which I placed on the bias, along with the cuffs. I love the result.


I added back darts to the shirt to eliminate slack and bulkiness. As you can tell in the photo below, the shirt still has a relaxed fit,


but tucks in nicely now.pg 2This beautiful shirting features a very nice smooth finish which remained after the prewash. Although the pattern suggests fusible interfacing, one of  my favorite cotton RTW shirts uses a light-midweight non fusible interfacing. The shirt is several years old and still looks brand new due to the collar retaining its shape. I used the non-fusible interfacing in the collar and  front band, but wish I had used it on all of the interfaced pieces ….. for now it will be my preferred choice on cotton shirting.

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As always, I used Secura Thread for sewing on the buttons. This heat activated thread by Coats & Clark binds to itself and prevents button loss!

While the gingham is  perfect with summer whites, I’m loving the pattern mixing out there this season and had several pieces just waiting for this classic to come along.

STMF pgg

  1. White RTW Jeans
  2. Fabric Sample
  3. Simplicity Amazing Fit Skirt Pattern
  4. Lilly Pulitzer skort. I bought this last summer…. one of the temptations that put me back on the 2018 RTW Fast
  5. Old RTW Jeans
  6. Patchwork skirt I made during year 1 with Amy Butler Fat Quarters

Many thanks to Style Maker Fabrics for inviting me to join in its 2018 Spring Blog tour. I’m delighted to have rediscovered Pink is the new Black!

The tour continues tomorrow with The Handmade Wardrobe 😊

  • laura towe
    Posted at 07:04h, 25 March Reply

    too cute never been first to comment.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:05h, 25 March Reply

      It’s always fun to be first! Many thanks, Laura 😊

    Posted at 07:07h, 25 March Reply

    So stylish and never out of date. Pink is a surprisingly versatile colour that coordinates with a multitude of others. Fresh look and I really like the mix of gingham and florals.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:11h, 25 March Reply

      Hi Ruth! So nice to hear from you and many thanks for your comment. I’ve had fun styling the shirt and plan to do more pattern mixing this season😉

  • Sharon R Killian
    Posted at 07:15h, 25 March Reply

    Love this, Sarah! Was the non-fusible you used woven or non=woven and would you share the name of it, please? Thanks!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:06h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you, Sharon! I used a non woven interfacing by Pellon.

      • Sharon R Killian
        Posted at 14:50h, 26 March Reply

        Thank you, Sarah!

  • Rebecca Bagwell
    Posted at 07:19h, 25 March Reply

    I LOVE gingham! Great shirt! Can’t wait to try the secure thread. Txs

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:07h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Becky! You’ll love this thread 😊

  • Julie Starr
    Posted at 07:43h, 25 March Reply

    Love your new shirt, Sarah! Gingham always looks so fresh and crisp. I’ve been using plain old muslin and a glue stick for shirt interfacing for a while now, after reading about it somewhere. I’ll never go back – it irons so nicely and there’s none of that glue bubbling that eventually happens after repeated laundering.

    • Jacqueline Harris
      Posted at 09:36h, 25 March Reply

      Hi Julie. I too have never liked iron-on interfacings. I love the idea of using muslin fabric as interfacing though, and wonder if you could explain your process? Is the glue stick used for temporary attachment for the purpose of construction process? Does it wash off easily without affecting the fashion fabric?


      • Sharon R Killian
        Posted at 10:07h, 25 March Reply

        Jacqueline, here’s a tutorial on how to use a glue stick for non-fusible interfacing
        Hope it helps! I’ve used this method and love it!

        • Jacqueline Harris
          Posted at 10:19h, 25 March Reply

          Thank you Sharon. It looks like the link for the tutorial is missing. I look forward to seeing it!


          • Sharon R Killian
            Posted at 12:05h, 25 March

            Jacqueline, attaching the link again:
            If you still can’t see it, go to sewaholic.net, click on tutorials, and search for “shirtmaking how to glue baste”. Hope one of these works! PS – if you have David Page Coffin’s Shirtmaking book, it’s in there as well.

        • Jacqueline Harris
          Posted at 17:29h, 25 March Reply

          Thanks again, Sharon. I now have the link! Will also investigate the book you recommend.


      • Julie Starr
        Posted at 11:40h, 25 March Reply

        Yes and yes! Using a washable glue stick in the seam allowance will temporarily hold it in place until the seams are stitched.

    • Heather Myers
      Posted at 10:02h, 25 March Reply

      Agreed, I’ve never liked iron on interfacing except for totes.😊 I use cotton batiste or something similar, had not thought of Muslim and a blue stick!!

      • Heather Myers
        Posted at 10:05h, 25 March Reply

        Apologies for the autospell errors!! Muslin and glue…

      • goodbyevalentino
        Posted at 07:11h, 26 March Reply

        So many good ideas! Does cotton batiste provide adequate stability for the collar?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:12h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Julie! How did I miss this wonderful tip from you?? I’ll give muslin and a glue stick a try next time 😊

  • Nicki
    Posted at 07:45h, 25 March Reply

    I love that you’re making the basics look so good! I am always drawn to the fancy patterns and have a hard time getting excited about patterns for the basics, but of course they’re the clothes I actually wear! Thanks for showing how a such a plain-looking pattern can make this fashionable and wearable shirt!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:53h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Nicki! It’s easy to be drawn to the fancy patterns and there is certainly a place for them. There have been too many times in my life where I have had a closet full of nothing to wear, but sewing the classics has changed that thank goodness 😉

  • Faye Lewis
    Posted at 07:47h, 25 March Reply

    So well made and such a gorgeous color.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:54h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you so much, Faye!

  • Bobbie Calgaro
    Posted at 07:52h, 25 March Reply

    What kind of interfacing did you use? I remember when I was growing up and just learning to sew using a wonderful interfacing call Sorbonne. What’s out there besides Pellon? I really sometimes hate iron on interfacing.. I never thought it really made things easier. Love the shirt! It is tres cute!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:55h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Bobbie 😊 I used a Pellon non woven interfacing. Read on for other interfacing comments….

  • Eva Kolpacki
    Posted at 08:00h, 25 March Reply

    You look absolutely gorgeous!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:56h, 26 March Reply

      🤗 Such a nice comment, Eva!

  • Sandy
    Posted at 08:14h, 25 March Reply

    This is a gorgeous shirt. I need to try one, because I too think I don’t look great in button up shirts.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:57h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Sandy! Once you get the fitting resolved you might find you like them. I also like button up shirts with princess seams and yokes 😉

  • Joanne Waldron
    Posted at 08:20h, 25 March Reply

    What a lovely shirt, great colour!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:59h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Joanne!!

  • Pamela Joyce Womick
    Posted at 08:48h, 25 March Reply

    I LOVE this perfect shirt you’ve made! I am so going to attempt to make one for myself!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:00h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you, Pamela – go for it!!

  • Barbara Williams
    Posted at 08:57h, 25 March Reply

    What a great color for you! Your shirt is lovely, and so wonderful with the patchwork skirt. Other than the white, the skirt is my favorite combo. My first order from Style Maker Fabrics is on the way. I ordered stretch denim for jeans. 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:01h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you, Barbara! I just pulled a few things from the closet but have lots of fabric in the stash to go with this pretty shade of pink 😊

  • Cissie
    Posted at 09:04h, 25 March Reply

    Love your shirt! And it looks like it will go with everything in your wardrobe!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:02h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you so much, Cissie!

  • Yolanda Fastle
    Posted at 09:21h, 25 March Reply

    This is lovely! I was looking for a classic shirt pattern and this is it. Thank you so much for what you do. It has brought more tailoring to my sewing with a more definitive purpose to my sewing .

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:14h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you for this nice comment, Yolanda! It’s a good pattern to start with. I also like shirt patterns with yokes and princess seams but I knew the gingham needed as little interruption as possible 😊

  • Jacqueline Harris
    Posted at 09:29h, 25 March Reply

    Hello there Sarah,

    Great post on a classic: the button shirt. It is true and so important to have the right fit! How you wear that classic shirt also makes it your own, but again, a good fit very important… I LOVE the mix of patterns that have come into vogue! Gucci has perfect examples of what I see as beautiful and wacky combinations that are like eye candy! I wear mostly black all the time, but when I do step out of my dark zone, I go for those stand out prints like plaids and paisleys…

    Have a great day!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:16h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Jacqueline! I am LOVING the Gucci mix of patterns – it takes a certain confidence and big wallet to wear those frocks, but they are enormously inspiring!

  • Susan Fogel
    Posted at 09:43h, 25 March Reply

    This is lovely. The gingham is fresh and lively.. I have this pattern and a Vogue very much like it. Th Vogue is cutout and waiting to be sewn. You have inspir d me to get going.
    I love all of your combinations.
    And I have drafts but not cut a skirt with a scallop hem..

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:19h, 26 March Reply

      LOL – Lots of projects waiting for your attention, Susan!! Good luck with all and I hope you’ll share some pics. Many thanks for the comment 😊

  • Heather Myers
    Posted at 09:58h, 25 March Reply

    Sarah, Thanks for your inspiring post, I’ll try bias on band and cuffs on my next shirt. I tend to think making button shirts are a lot of work, but they certainly are versatile. I’m amazed by the number of existing pieces you have that match, pink must be your secret wardrobe color!.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:22h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you, Heather! I so agree with you – making button shirts are a lot of work but as with most projects that require a lot of work, they usually pay off. As for my secret colors – I can’t get enough of pink and orange 😉

  • Janine
    Posted at 10:07h, 25 March Reply

    Great shirt for Spring, Sarah. Like you, RTW button downs don’t work for me. It’s so rewarding to know that we can make something better than the so-called ‘professionals’ 😉

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:22h, 26 March Reply

      Amen, Janine!

  • Margene
    Posted at 10:28h, 25 March Reply

    Love it ALL. Thanks for “Style Maker” info.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:24h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you, Margene! Enjoy Style Maker 😊

  • Vanessa Thomas
    Posted at 10:59h, 25 March Reply

    I really love it with the skort! And the bias banding mix looks great too.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:26h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you so much, Vanessa! I bought the skort last summer to figure out the scalloped edge thing (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it 😉)

  • Ann Brodsky
    Posted at 11:08h, 25 March Reply

    So pretty! I love the pink check mixed with the printed garments. So fresh and modern!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:26h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you, Ann! It’s a new look but I like it too 😉

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 12:07h, 25 March Reply

    So pretty. And using the bias makes it visually interesting.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:27h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Alice! I think the bias makes it special for sure.

  • Angela
    Posted at 13:15h, 25 March Reply

    Such a cute and fresh shirt! I’d love to read a column someday about fusible vs sew-in interfacing. And my own preference here – I LOVE LOVE that you write so much out on your blog rather than a quick run of pictures on Instagram. I do not hate Instagram, but I get so much enjoyment from reading what the author says about the process.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:29h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you so much, Angela.. I’m a huge Instagram fan, especially for a quick reference, but I enjoy writing and documenting the process too. I guess you might say I love blogging 😊

  • Mary Anne
    Posted at 13:29h, 25 March Reply

    I love this classic style shirt…. And so versatile.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:29h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Mary Anne!

  • Laura Casey
    Posted at 15:37h, 25 March Reply

    Great post, Sarah….makes me re-evaluate the idea of classics, being the workhorse of any wardrobe. Love all the combinations using your new gingham shirt…makes me want to have one! Thanks everso, laura

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:30h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you, Laura! I like this gingham shirt enough to make another one 😉

  • Diane G
    Posted at 15:44h, 25 March Reply

    Simply gorgeous!. Beautifully made and so versatile as it goes with so many other lovely garments. You have a lovely style

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:31h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks for your nice comment, Diane 😊

  • Margaret Winters
    Posted at 17:20h, 25 March Reply

    Yay! Pink is the new black, I love it!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:34h, 26 March Reply

      Audrey Hepburn says it best!Audrey Hepburn quote

  • Marcia Clever
    Posted at 17:32h, 25 March Reply

    Sarah, I love your pink checked shirt. I have the same pattern and am now motivated to get sewing it. Your sewn Basics are always lovely.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:36h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Marcia! It’s an easy pattern and runs a little large. Good luck 😊

  • Kathy
    Posted at 18:00h, 25 March Reply

    How to you do your fitting? Someone help you or dress form, etc.
    Very nice fit.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:38h, 26 March Reply

      Sometimes I have help from a friend but I often do it alone. I make a muslin from which I make alterations, and I do have a dress form. It’s not an exact duplicate but very helpful. Many thanks for your comment 😊

  • Patty
    Posted at 18:08h, 25 March Reply

    I love the bias bands for buttons and cuffs! What a difference it makes. Love it!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:39h, 26 March Reply

      I agree Patty – those bias bands give it just enough oomph to take it from plain to pretty 😊

  • Linda LaMona
    Posted at 19:31h, 25 March Reply

    Great looking shirt! Love that pink color!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:39h, 26 March Reply

      Thank you so much, Linda!

  • MaryEllen
    Posted at 20:44h, 25 March Reply

    As usual Sarah another winner – I love that you also showed how you styled this gorgeous workhorse shirt.
    I’m also enjoying g all the info about using Muslin for interfacing .
    Lots to learn !,

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:40h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Mary Ellen! I’m loving the interfacing/muslin info too😊😊

  • Alethia Hudson
    Posted at 23:38h, 25 March Reply

    O absolutely love this gorgeous shirt and the many ways you have modeled it!!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:40h, 26 March Reply

      Many thanks, Alethia! It’s going to be a wardrobe staple for sure 😉

  • Cynthia Gilbreth
    Posted at 11:46h, 26 March Reply

    Beautiful! I love the checks and the bias touches. It makes the shirt really special. I have that pattern, now to find some nice shirting.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:25h, 28 March Reply

      Thank you so much, Cynthia! Enjoy sewing this pattern😊

  • Alicia Burrus
    Posted at 11:17h, 27 March Reply

    Beautiful shirt, Sarah! Does it go with your Birdie Jacket? Or your white jacket you made a few weeks ago? Anyway, I love your shirt and I love all the combinations you wore in the pictures!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:24h, 28 March Reply

      Many thanks, Alicia! This shirt works well with both pieces!

  • Melissa Archer
    Posted at 22:24h, 27 March Reply

    What a pretty and oh-so versatile shirt, it looks a million dollars on you Sarah! I like that you’ve paired it with some RTW bottoms as well. It’s a good reminder there’s no crime in making use of previously purchased RTW wardrobe items, even in a fasting year ( :

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:24h, 28 March Reply

      Thank you, Melissa and you are so right! The RTW FAST is not about fasting from wearing the clothes you already have. As a matter of fact I believe we can learn so much from the RTW pieces hanging in our closet. 🙂

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