21 May Burda 7044 – Party Dress!
Nearly 10 years ago I invested in a ‘Chakra Portrait’. I visited with a Median who drew a pot of cascading flowers during our chat. It was nothing like I expected, and at the conclusion of our 90 minutes together I ask her to explain the drawing of my Chakra energies…..
Her reply was that I needed more yellow in my life. I laughed it off but Marcy the Median was right. I need more yellow in my life.
It’s a color I rarely wear or gravitate towards, but now, seeing the color yellow, be it a daffodil, summer squash, yellow room or this gorgeous fabric reminds me of Marcy’s comment.
Greetings from Charleston’s Hotel Bennett, the South’s new grand and luxury hotel. We’re in town for a garden wedding reception at the William Aiken House, a lovely historic property in the center of Charleston.
Mood Fabrics’ Oscar de la Renta cotton and silk faille caught my eye which I immediately ordered. The distinctive ribbed texture, heavy weight and lovely sheen combined with the floral print spelled Garden Wedding Reception Dress to me!
I retrieved a pattern deep in my stash for the dress – Burda 7044. Now out of print, it is available on Etsy and Ebay.
The tailored one- inch ruffle sealed the deal for my pattern choice.
After making a quick muslin shell I cut out the pattern but was stumped by the assembly instructions of the ruffle facing, ruffle, overlay and underskirt. My shortcoming I’m sure.
To help me assemble the pieces I turned to the dress that started my blog – my one and only Valentino.
I discovered no ruffle facings were used. The ruffle was stitched, serged and pressed, and if it’s good enough for Valentino………. Knowing I need not apply the facings was such a relief which led me to chart my own course.
Since pictures can tell the story better than words……
I pieced together 200 inches of fabric for the ruffle and gathered the ruffle on a ruffler attachment.
Even though the dress is lined, I followed Burda’s instructions to finish the seam allowances on each piece which was well worth the time and effort.
My construction process of the overlay assembly looked like this:
Construction Order:
- Dress front
- Dress front, topped with skirt overlay and dress front overlay basted together on the left and stitched to side front seam on the right to ruffle marking.
- Dress front overlay clipped at marking. Ruffle partially attached
- Full photo of #3
- Side seam attached. The ruffle is sewn into the side seam to the overlay curve where it then remains free.
It’s true, partially attaching the ruffle before sewing the back and side seams of the dress meant I the had to carry the ruffle around, however I was able to tweak the fit before completing its attachment. I shortened the length and reduced the sweep by 6 inches.
Viola!
I chose to omit the bow due to the print of the dress, but I see a black dress in my future with a lovely bow!
Many thanks to Mood Fabrics for the opportunity to sew on this luscious fabric, and cheers to the color YELLOW! May it illuminate your life with its cheerful presence 🙂
Anne Stoye
Posted at 07:49h, 21 MayLovely dress, looking so fresh and summery, and, as ever, a superb and flattering fit. Does the back of the pattern envelope include a diagram of the pattern pieces? If so, would it be possible for you to post the image please. And maybe a photograph of the inside of the dress? Despite your photographs I am not convinced that I fully understand how to cut and sew a similar wrapped front.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 09:00h, 21 MayThank you, Anne!
I’m away from home and don’t have the pattern with me. The illustrations in the image above are the illustrations on the pattern back. I’m happy to take a photo of the inside but the lining is a shell which covers the multiple front pieces, however I just noted the construction steps above. Hope it helps. 😉
Anne Stoye
Posted at 11:53h, 21 MayThank you very much for the clarification – multiple centre front pieces has made all clear – I had been expecting a partial underlap not a full piece overlap so wasn’t on the right wavelength initially.
PatB
Posted at 07:50h, 21 MayLove it. Thank you for showing your process, I am so impressed by the even ruffle. I need to buy that attachment. Beautiful fabric and choice of pattern that is perfect for You. The amazing feeling that you are wearing a dress unique to you. Thank you for your inspiration.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 09:01h, 21 MayThanks so much, Pat! A ruffler attachment is worth the investment 😀😀
joyjc
Posted at 08:22h, 21 MayYellow is my favorite color! But that dress is absolutely gorgeous! You did an excellent job and you look great in that dress!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 09:02h, 21 MayMany thanks, Joy! I like yellow too but for some reason I have only 4 yellow garments 😉
Bronwyn David
Posted at 08:26h, 21 MayGlorious. Like a ray of sunshine.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 09:03h, 21 MayThank you, David 😀
Peggy Leah
Posted at 08:37h, 21 MayLove silk faille. Your dress is beautiful. and yellow IS
under-rated. your dress looks very couture and the
ruffle really is important. You are such an inspiration!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 09:04h, 21 MayI’m a new silk faille fan for sure, Peggy! The ruffle transforms the dress in my opinion. Many thanks for your comment😀
Mary Funt
Posted at 10:27h, 21 MayWonderful look. The ruffle makes it and the ruffler must have saved you hours and hours. I also loved your wedding look dress ; the Italian fabric was spectacular.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:10h, 22 MayMary ~ So nice to hear from you! I love and adore the ruffler😉 Many thanks for the compliment on the wedding photo. Hank took it and it’s not one I would send out but ……go with the flow!!
Carol
Posted at 10:39h, 21 MayThank you Sarah
Love the dress, color, print and fit
I am in the midst of updating my Spring/Summer wardrobe
This season will definitely include more yellow as well
I would also like to thank you for your inspiring blog
I have been a sewest for years and had no idea so many wonderful blogs and resources existed
or that the RTW Fast was a thing
I never seem to find the styles, fabrics, colours or sizes I need or Want
Made by Me seems like the best way to remove that frustration from my day to day
I ordered your Tunic Bible last week and am anxiously awaiting its arrival tomorrow
Thank you for taking the time to share so thoroughly
Much appreciated
Carol
PEI, Canada
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:14h, 22 MaySuch a lovely comment, Carol! One of the aspects of sewing I always touch on when speaking to groups is the Online Sewing Community. I would not be sewing without it. The inspiration and support is unlike anything I’ve seen 😀
…..and I agree with you…… If you are looking for something in particular, just sew it!!! Many thanks for ordering The Tunic Bible!
Ohhmy
Posted at 10:41h, 21 MayHere are just a few “superlatives” definition online: excellent, magnificent, wonderful, glorious, marvelous, brilliant, supreme, consummate, outstanding, dazzling. BEAUTIFUL, TOO!!! So well done, Sarah!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:16h, 22 MayOHHMY…….goodness!!!!! Thank you! I too love it and could not be more pleased 😀
LuLu Thomas
Posted at 11:34h, 21 MayYou look amazing in your creation. I am very jealous of your abilities but always inspired. Thank you for sharing!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:18h, 22 MayThank you, Lulu! No need to be jealous – I truly stared at the instructions for over 2 hours and still had no clue what to do 😩 Perserverence is the key to successful sewing for sure!
Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
Posted at 11:45h, 21 Maythat is super cute and the yellow was a pretty choice. I never wear yellow but paired with white I might give it a try. As well as try to recreate that pattern using a simple princess seamed dress – I’m all about reusing patterns I already have. 🙂 Looks great on you.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:22h, 22 MayThank you, Beth! If anyone can reinvent a pattern it’s you 😀 Look forward to seeing what you do!
Alice Elliot
Posted at 12:29h, 21 MayI would never think a tiny ruffle could have so much effect. I love the whole look. Another success!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:23h, 22 MayAlice ~ I completely agree with you about the ruffle. Details matter for sure 😉
Alex in California
Posted at 14:15h, 21 MayYou look beautiful. I feel you are right about omitting the little bow (maybe a big honking magnolia instead). The little bow might make the dress too cute but absolutely right for the little black dress. It’s always a treat to come see what treasure you have created – thank you.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:25h, 22 MayAlex, If I had had time before leaving I would have created a Dior Rose embellishment. Many thanks for your comment!
Migdalia Báez
Posted at 14:33h, 21 MayPerfection!!! I love that your finish projects are always so nicely pressed. Your work inspires me to strive towards perfection. Thank you for sharing.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:26h, 22 MayPRESSING MATTERS! It can often be the difference between success and failure when sewing. Many thanks, Migdalia 😉
Rosalind Clayton
Posted at 14:52h, 21 MayAs always, totally FABULOUS!!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:27h, 22 MayThank you so much, Rosalind!
Visitor
Posted at 15:12h, 21 MayThat looks great.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:28h, 22 MayMany thanks 😀😀
Karey
Posted at 15:57h, 21 MayThe yellow really suits you. It brings out lovely warm tones in your skin. You should definitely include more of it.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:26h, 23 MayI plan to Karey! Many thanks for your comment 😊
Terri Baker
Posted at 19:11h, 21 MayOh My heavens!! This dress is my very favorite ever!! It’s perfect for you!!! May see you in Boston!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:37h, 23 MayThank you, Terri! It’s one of my favorites as well for many reasons. Hope to see you in Boston 😊
Hang-Trang
Posted at 19:36h, 21 MayI totally agree, you need more yellow. It’s a color I rarely think about because if you get the wrong shade, it doesn’t do it. You look young and gorgeous in this one. I think it’s called “jaune Pernod”, just like the liquor.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:39h, 23 MayYou are so right about finding the correct shade of yellow! I’ve never heard of this shade 😂 Many thanks for your comment, Hang-Trang!
Maggie Edger
Posted at 20:00h, 21 MayOne of my all time favorites. You look so pretty. I must agree, YELLOW is you. Love, A Maggie
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:39h, 23 MayThank you, Maggie! Something about the weight and sheen of the fabric took it to another level 😊
Lynda Thomas
Posted at 20:02h, 21 MayYellow is a beautiful vibrant color for you,
I noticed in the photo of you with the ruffle dangling to the floor that this skirt length (before red file is added)
is a great length for you. Shows off you legs.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:40h, 23 MayThank you, Lynda! Are you saying the dress should be shorter in your opinion?
Lynda Thomas
Posted at 20:04h, 21 MayLet me rewrite this. Dang autocorrect,
That skirt length before ruffle is added is a good length for you.
Claire
Posted at 22:16h, 21 MayWhat a great dress Sarah and the ruffle really is your signature! Perfect for a garden reception. Isn’t wedding season the best??
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:42h, 23 MayClaire ~ I love wedding season and ruffles 😊 Perhaps the two go hand in hand…….
Many thanks for your comment and hope you’re doing well!
Anne Dawahare
Posted at 06:43h, 22 MayFabulous dress and as always your fitting is perfect. I also enjoy yellow and made a yellow dress for one of my son’s graduation events. Yellow does the soul good.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:43h, 23 May‘Yellow does the soul good’ I’m remembering that one, Anne! Many thanks for your comment 😊
Kathy T
Posted at 11:32h, 22 MayThank you for sharing this beautiful, well fitted dress. You did a great job and have inspired me to make myself a summer dress as well.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:44h, 23 MayThank you, Kathy! I truly love making dresses and hope you will too. Good luck 😉
Karen Of Fifty Dresses
Posted at 14:05h, 22 MaySuch a successful make, Sarah! I LOVE everything about this dress, and you employed one of fashion sewing secrets by going to a similarly styled RTW dress to figure out a construction technique. This is just lovely, and yes, you should wear more yellow. It suits you!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:46h, 23 MayThank you so much, Karen!! I would have been lost without the RTW dress as a guide, but its all water under the bridge now 😊 More yellow for sure!
Margo Bergman
Posted at 16:29h, 22 MayPretty dress Sarah!! love the color on you!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:46h, 23 MayMargo ~ So nice to hear from you and many thanks for the comment. Hope you are enjoying your new adventures😊😊
Rita Holladay
Posted at 15:53h, 26 MayLove the yellow dress; I always fall for ruffles!! Am I correct in reading in the section on Julie Starr’s Chanel jacket that she and her friend from Houston will have a sew along in January? If so please keep us posted about how to sign up, etc.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 23:02h, 26 MayThank you, Rita! Follow Julie and Dorcas on their Instagram accounts for more information on the January sew along😊
Linda LaMona
Posted at 18:24h, 28 MayYellow looks good on you and one my favorite colors, yet I hardly sew that color! Gorgeous dress and hope the wedding event went well!