14 Jan Supersize Me!
Maybe it’s just me but on January 2, I was craving an oversized shirt to hide my holiday indulgences…. and when I’m in an unattractive state of mind, the fabric I like to turn to is silk.
This Famous Designer Black and Off-White Animal Print Crepe de Chine was the perfect antidote for my post holiday doldrums.
I feel better already!
My pattern of choice was Simplicity 2447, but it wasn’t just oversized, it was supersized!
Before cutting into the silk I made a full muslin which required one alteration after another. The photo below shows the muslin after the excess is pinned out of the princess seams and (the photo left) armscye.
It’s not easy being short 😉 Check out the bunching of fabric in the back after I removed two inches of length from the bodice……..
To eliminate the excess from the muslin I followed Lynda Maynard’s directions from her Craftsy Class, Sew the Perfect Fit by horizontally slicing the back pattern piece at the waist to the edge of the paper. By creating a wedge I eliminated the bulk from the middle of the back without affecting the length. Fortunately, my new roll of Pattern Paper from Mood Fabrics served me well as I transferred my alterations to a new pattern piece.
It helped re-draw the pattern on grain and assisted in keeping my alterations precise as I drafted a new pattern piece from the alterations. For those making constant pattern alterations, I believe the huge roll of paper is worth the $30 investment Check it out HERE.
After eliminating the bulk from the back, I left the back length longer than the front.
My one regret was not ordering an extra ½ yard of the silk. I did not have enough fabric for a full collar and settled on the collar stand featured in View D.
I cut all pattern pieces with a new rotary blade and used pattern weights (along with a very few pins) to prevent slipping. All of the careful measuring, pinning and fitting were worth the time, as I believe oversized garments should fit just as well as fitted ones.
Sewing a casual style in silk crepe de chine was true luxury for me. Whether worn with an old pair or cords or my new Marcy Tilton leggings, the combination of style and fabric yields a top that is the epitome of comfort and a great wardrobe extender.
Hubby hasn’t seen it yet but I know what his reaction will be……..
“ It’s pretty, but I like fitted clothes and shirts that tuck in better.”
Presto!
Gotta love the versatility of a silk blouse !
Until soon 🙂
Yoshie Wong
Posted at 07:05h, 14 JanuaryReally nice and cute!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:39h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Yoshie!
Treva Putsche
Posted at 07:19h, 14 JanuaryNice job Sara. Looks like you went a bit shorter than your muslin , I think was a good decision. Being Short can be difficult!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:40h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Treva! I should have made the front 1 inch longer but certainly not as long as the muslin 😉
Barbara gray
Posted at 07:34h, 14 JanuaryIt is stunning Sarah, beautiful work and like you say very versatile.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:40h, 15 JanuaryMany thanks, Barbara! I’ll wear it a lot 🙂
Juliet Lupton
Posted at 08:02h, 14 JanuaryOh yes, you chose a print that is so you and the style of the shirt is beautiful too. How does your silk fabric wash or are you planning to dry clean?
Dianne Wade
Posted at 17:21h, 14 JanuaryI’m interested in whether the silk is washable or to be dry cleaned.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 17:42h, 14 JanuaryThank you, Juliet!
I plan to dry clean this fabric. On occasion I will hand wash silks but overall I believe the crepe de chine maintains its original texture better when dry cleaned 🙂
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:41h, 15 JanuaryMany thanks, Juliet! For this fabric I plan to dry clean 😉
amanda cantarella
Posted at 08:04h, 14 JanuaryGreat shirt , it looks fabulous. Thank you for the tutorial for taking the wedge out of the back . I am only short as well and that is so helpful, thanks.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:59h, 15 JanuaryMany thanks, Amanda! Nothing like being short, huh? 😉
Pru Joy
Posted at 08:21h, 14 JanuaryOohh, I have this pattern too but haven’t used it yet. Fascinating to see you work it out, I am also petite & usually swim in most patterns. I also have Lynda’s Craftsy class. But I must admit I find making a muslin just too tiresome. I don’t understand why you can cut the pattern as per your measurements with adjustments, correct fabric et, yet it is still not right … Mmm, better finish Lynda’s class!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 02:01h, 15 JanuaryPlease let me know once you have figured out how to make a nice fitting garment without a muslin – LOL! I have had to adjust my mindset to accepting the muslin as part of the process for sewing a new pattern 😉
Jane Diggens
Posted at 10:12h, 14 JanuaryFabulous choice of fabric. Great length on you.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:41h, 15 JanuaryThank you so much, Jane!
Beryl Koster
Posted at 10:18h, 14 JanuaryI really appreciate the extra effort you put into showing us all your progress throughout the project…”..it is so helpful!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:42h, 15 JanuaryMany thanks, Beryl 🙂 This sewing experience was every bit as much about the muslin as it was the silk!
Denise Gosselin
Posted at 10:34h, 14 JanuaryVery nice Sarah and two looks completely differents!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:42h, 15 JanuaryThank you so much, Denise!
Marysia Paling
Posted at 11:53h, 14 JanuaryHi there and Happy New Year!
Love working in silk too and as you say, the alterations you have made to this shows the top has loads of versatility. Leggings are fabulous on you too.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:43h, 15 JanuaryMany thanks, Marysia 🙂 I plan to do a post on the leggings soon.
Laura Casey
Posted at 11:55h, 14 JanuaryWow what a cute and versatile blouse….and the silk you picked is sumptuous indeed. I rarely make a muslin….do lots of measuring, refer to other pattern pieces…..use pattern drafting paper quite a bit…..love the #’s on the MOOD version.
Now stay warm and cozy and let your hand rest…..but let your mind go!
Laura
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:45h, 15 JanuaryLaura,
Maybe one day I’ll be able to sew without a muslin, but I’m not there yet. I almost used the lovely buttons you sent to me but decided they would disappear into the fabric and they are too pretty for that 🙂
Irene
Posted at 12:22h, 14 JanuaryGorgeous shirt!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:45h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Irene!
Sarah C
Posted at 12:25h, 14 JanuaryOhh! This looks so good! Great job.
I have this pattern but have been concerned about the fit. Thank you for your review and how you fixed the fit.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:48h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Sarah and good luck with the pattern!
Jet Set Sewing
Posted at 12:35h, 14 JanuaryI love that! You’re definitely ready for Jungle January. Good going on the muslin.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:48h, 15 JanuaryThank you for the compliment and reminding me about Jungle January!
Debbie Wiliams
Posted at 12:43h, 14 Januarythis is an inspiring post – and looks great! so many helpful tips. it makes me want to buy some luscious silk right away! We all have those pounds that pile on over the winter, and the psychological boost is welcome. Keep up the good work. You are my favorite blogger (and i subscribe to around 40).
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:52h, 15 JanuaryAh…… thank you for this nice comment, Debbie 🙂 Psychological boosts are always welcome!
Becry bagwell
Posted at 13:02h, 14 JanuaryYou look amazing!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:53h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Becry! …. or is it Becky 😉
Becry bagwell
Posted at 13:08h, 14 January? You made the pattern with hidden buttons? If so…how?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 00:53h, 15 JanuaryI did not make hidden buttons! They are black and if you magnify the photo you will see them 🙂 🙂
Gail
Posted at 13:11h, 14 JanuaryI really love how you shared your process, Sarah. Thank you! The blouse is gorgeous and can be paired with so many things in so many ways! I realize that I really need some of that paper.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:06h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Gail! The paper is fantastic – not as transparent as I thought it would be though 🙂
marina villalobos
Posted at 13:40h, 14 JanuaryLove the blouse! It looks great on you. I, too, made this Simplicity blouse pattern but in cotton, instead of silk. I like yours better. It looks soft and luxurious. Perhaps I’ll revisit this pattern and this time I’ll do it in silk. I also like the longer back since this feature gives the blouse a modern twist. Nicely done!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:39h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Marina! For me….. I prefer loose fitting clothes in a drapey fabrics – a cotton voile or batiste is tempting too 😉
MaryEllen
Posted at 14:00h, 14 JanuaryGreat job Sarah – you always have such great Info & tips – they help me take the fear out of sewing something new – Thanks
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:41h, 15 JanuaryMany thanks, Mary Ellen 🙂
Eleanor Schreyer
Posted at 14:04h, 14 JanuaryYou’ve shown how important making a muslin first is…now you have a pattern you can remake with confidence & save your fashion fabric… beautiful job! Think I will like that fabric from Mood too.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:42h, 15 JanuaryThank you so much, Elearnor! You’ll love this silk and the price is reasonable 😉
Anne Marie
Posted at 14:05h, 14 JanuaryGorgeous!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:42h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Anne Marie!
Anna O'Day
Posted at 14:18h, 14 JanuaryLove it! It looks beautiful and you look beautiful in it!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:43h, 15 JanuaryWhat a nice comment, Anna 🙂 Thank you so much!
Lauren
Posted at 14:18h, 14 JanuaryToo long for you but may be perfect for me since I’m taller. This pattern was on my list. You did a great job altering it.
Lauren
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:44h, 15 JanuaryHi Lauren,
I was thinking the front was about an inch too short— especially when I wear heels and wedges 😉
Marla Cooprider
Posted at 14:30h, 14 JanuaryI’m petite too. Only 5 feet tall! Your outfits look great! I wonder how I would look in that outfit! And you pull off the boots well! Just turned 59 but look much younger. And lost at least 10 pounds this past year and more fit than ever. Still working on it but a size 6 in RTW. Just have never worn skirts, etc. above me knees. Have “knock-knees”. Ugh. Still, I wonder if I could pull off making myself some leggings with a shirt like that! 🙂
Marla
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:45h, 15 JanuaryCongratulations on the weight loss, Marla!…… and YES, you CAN pull off leggings, a long silk shirt and boots!
Chris
Posted at 14:32h, 14 JanuaryOne advantage to a longer shirt? When you do decide to tuck it in, it stays tucked! No bunching, pulling out at the back, or constant adjusting to make sure it’s still neatly tucked.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:46h, 15 JanuaryI agree, Chris! I might make all of my silk shirts LONG just to be able to comfortably tuck in 🙂
Many thanks for the comment!
Alethia
Posted at 14:53h, 14 JanuaryWhat a beautiful blouse, and I LOVE that fabric!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:47h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Alethia! The fabric is still available 😉
Tina
Posted at 14:55h, 14 JanuaryLovely, Sarah. Could you tell me what fabric you used for the leggings? I am considering making a pair & want to use a fabric which will retract enough so the knees don’t bag.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:48h, 15 JanuaryHi Tina,
I used a fabric I bought at Mood when in NYC and do not have the fabric content. The leggings are new so I’m not sure how they will hold up, however the seams at the Knees should keep them from bagging 🙂
Cynthia
Posted at 15:15h, 14 JanuaryThe shirt is wonderful & the print is utterly ‘you’! I love the drape of the silk. Thanks you for sharing your construction methods AND how you learned them. I will investigate that Craftsy class. Thank you!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 02:12h, 15 JanuaryThanks so much, Cynthia! I credit Craftsy classes with improving my skills for sure 😉
Tia Dia
Posted at 15:16h, 14 JanuaryWow. This is really nice. I heartily agree with you about the loveliness of silk, and your black/white print is perfect in this shirt, tucked in or left out. And thanks for posting all your alterations. Love seeing how sewistas make their garments fit perfectly!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 02:02h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Tia Dia! It really takes some doing to make a pattern fit correctly sometimes 😉
Marilyn Metz
Posted at 15:23h, 14 JanuaryGorgeous!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 02:03h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Marilyn!
Joan
Posted at 15:27h, 14 JanuaryFits beautifully, Sara. Thanks for a terrific overview of your fitting process. I hope you can use that pattern multiple times & ways now that it fits so nicely!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 02:09h, 15 JanuaryThank you so much, Joan! I hope to make it again too 🙂
Kathi Sorensen
Posted at 15:50h, 14 JanuaryGorgeous! Great job refitting the pattern. I don’t think my skills (and patience) are up to it.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 02:10h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Kathi! It’s definitely a matter of patience over skills 😉
Katie Link
Posted at 16:16h, 14 JanuaryI love your new blouse and really appreciate your precision. I have a question about the wedge that you removed from the back and then getting the pattern back on grain. I see where the pattern has become off grain at the bottom. How did it get it back on grain. Did you redraw the side seams after sliding the bottom part of the pattern to on grain at center front? Or, did you redraw the center front to on grain and leave the side seam where it is? The last option seems incorrect to me because it would add a lot of width to the garment at the bottom.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 16:32h, 14 JanuaryKatie,
Thank you for your comment. I hesitate to give advice sometimes because I am not an expert. In the Craftsy class, Lynda demonstrates how to get the pattern piece back on grain. I decided the easiest thing to do was do draw a new pattern piece (on grain) based on my adjustments. After I redrew the piece I compared the width to the original to check for sizing. I recommend either taking her class or looking online for this type of adjustment to make sure it will work for you 🙂
Karen Helm
Posted at 16:44h, 14 JanuaryWhat great shirt for Jungle January! This post is a real lesson in the value of a fitting muslin. It looks wonderful on you!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:50h, 15 JanuaryThank you Karen! I didn’t make too many muslins until I returned to sewing a few years ago. Now, I can’t sew without one 😉
Maris Olsen
Posted at 16:51h, 14 JanuaryLOVE your shirt, Sara! Silk + animal print = killer. You will definitely get loads of wear from this garment.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:50h, 15 JanuaryMany thanks, Maris! I too, believe I’ll be wearing this one a lot 🙂
Gayle
Posted at 18:28h, 14 JanuaryThank you for sharing your muslin alterations with us. A picture is worth a thousand words. Great job as usual!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:51h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Gayle! The muslin pictures aren’t too flattering but as you said…. they tell the story 🙂
Helen McCleneghen
Posted at 20:00h, 14 JanuaryWhat did you make the Marcy Tilton leggings out of?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:12h, 14 JanuaryHelen,
I plan to do a post on the leggings soon. They were made from the fabric I incorporated into the Scuba Knit dress. Here is the post. https://goodbyevalentino.com/scuby-dooby-doo-giveaway-winner/ I bought the fabric at the Mood store and don’t have the content, but it is a two-way stretch. Hope this helps 🙂
Laurel Wilson
Posted at 20:34h, 14 JanuaryI wish my bulk looks as good on me as it does on you–what bulk!! Gorgeous shirt, beautiful fit.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:52h, 15 JanuaryLOL! I’m in need of some slack after eating my way through the holidays 🙂 Thanks for the comment, Laurel!
Maggie edger
Posted at 22:28h, 14 JanuaryI sure could use that lovely top with all the black and white I wear. Very pretty. A Maggie
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:53h, 15 JanuaryThis top would look beautiful on you, Maggie 🙂
Toni
Posted at 22:48h, 14 JanuaryAnimal-print silk? Now, *that’s* a recipe for a pick-me-up! Gorgeous!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:53h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Toni!
Linda L
Posted at 23:12h, 14 JanuaryI like this shirt! I love Lynda Maynard’s class, it was most helpful in making fitting adjustments. Just when I think I know enough someone like her gives me other alternatives.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:54h, 15 JanuaryHi Linda! I too learned things I didn’t know I needed to know in Lynda’s class 😉 Many thanks for the comment 🙂
Nana
Posted at 23:16h, 14 JanuaryExcellent fabric and pattern match. Love the details you include on fitting. Thanks for the link to the paper….will be looking at that too.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:55h, 15 JanuaryThanks, Nana! I love the paper – it is not as transparent as I expected it to be FYI 😉
Mary Lynn
Posted at 23:34h, 14 JanuaryThat fabric is wonderful – it goes with everything! I loved reading how you made all of the adjustments to make
this shirt fit so nicely and be more versatile. I have to go back and finish linda Maynard’s fitting video. Welcome
back 🙂
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:56h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Mary Lynn! I think almost all clothes are worth making as versatile as possible 😉
Sharon
Posted at 23:47h, 14 JanuaryGorgeous oversized (fitted) shirt, it certainly sounds luxurious and looks very adaptable.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:56h, 15 JanuaryLOL! In many ways it is Oversized and Fitted 🙂 Thanks for the comment, Sharon.
Alice Elliot
Posted at 01:06h, 15 JanuaryLovely blouse! It almost looks in the muslin like you could go down a couple sizes in the pattern. But maybe then the shoulders wouldn’t fit and I find that to be a next to impossible pattern adjustment.
I do the same back adjustment, taking a wedge out of the back at the waist. I learned it by making a duct tape dress form and finally being able to fit my own back!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 01:58h, 15 JanuaryHi Alice and thanks for the comment. Based on the pattern I think I got the fit just right but it wasn’t easy 😉 The back adjustment is a lifesaver for sure!
Tomasa Jimenez
Posted at 02:03h, 15 JanuaryI love animal print and a black and white animal print is just the absolute best. Your blouse is beautiful and you look great. Whatever your holiday indulgences were certainly have not manifested. You look gorgeous!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 11:19h, 15 JanuaryThank you for your nice and encouraging comment, Tomasa! If an oversized animal print garment can’t hide an inch around the waist then I don’t know what can 😉
Myra Rentmeester
Posted at 02:33h, 15 JanuaryLovely blouse Sarah! Love the animal print and can you believe I’ve never worked with “Silk” crepe de chine?? I think you’ve created a goal in 2015 for me!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 11:20h, 15 JanuaryMyra,
Thank you for the comment! I think you’ll find the fabric not too difficult to work with. Cut carefully and baste, baste, baste!
Irma R.
Posted at 05:49h, 15 JanuaryI like the blouse and you look great. And – you are not the only one who has to hide the holiday indulgences. 😉
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 11:21h, 15 JanuaryGlad to know I’m not alone! Many thanks, Irma 🙂
Linda
Posted at 05:55h, 15 JanuaryNice work on the shirt! I saw the same paper on a Janet Pray course. I am going to have to look into getting some for myself!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 11:22h, 15 JanuaryThank you, Linda! I’m finding the paper very handy 🙂
Cindy Aymes
Posted at 13:01h, 15 JanuaryAh, us petite girls! I always make a muslin but without a fitting buddy it’s very difficult and time consuming! And not always successful. But the results you get keeps making me want to try harder! Thanks for the inspiration. And lovely blouse!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:14h, 15 JanuaryCindy, I rarely use a fittng buddy and have learned to fit myself accordingly. It is time consuming and affects my pattern purchases, but very much worth the time and trouble. : Many thanks for your comment!
Jean W
Posted at 13:42h, 15 JanuarySarah – the pattern paper you mentioned – is it like medical paper or more like interfacing so you can use it for fitting:? Why do you prefer to use this kind?
thanks!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:10h, 15 JanuaryJean,
The paper is more like medical paper. I’m inexperienced when it comes to buying pattern paper and this is the only true pattern paper I have used. The paper is not as transparent as I imagined it to be, but for my purposes it works very well. The markings on the paper serve a excellent guides. and I wish I had discovered the paper earlier 🙂
Cindy Aymes
Posted at 14:27h, 15 JanuaryI’m sorry, I don’t usually horn in on other’s conversations. But I was in a class this past week and when I wanted to trace out my pattern before cutting, the teacher had me use a pinpoint tracing wheel which leaves perforations in the paper. It was very thick paper and you couldn’t see through it, so I couldn’t trace it as I normally would have done with my medical paper. Anyway, the pinpoint tracing wheel is very sharp. She put a thick piece of fleece under the paper before I traced it. It was very simple to transfer all of the lines and markings and cut it out, but I would have marred the countertop had I done it without the fleece. It was a neat way of getting much more stable pattern pieces! Just thought I’d let you know about it, if you didn’t.
Jean W
Posted at 17:52h, 16 Januarythanks Sarah! I have just been using medical paper.
monica
Posted at 14:37h, 15 JanuaryStunning! Love your style. I am also a petite size 5’1″ and just turned 50. Love reading your blog and have copied several of your ideas. Please keep them coming!
Sharon
Posted at 21:05h, 15 JanuaryGreat job. And it’s so true, when in a funk why not put on something nice to pick you up! I love the fabric and how it makes even a casual outfit look special.
Lynn Marsh
Posted at 22:42h, 15 JanuaryI have this patternbut never used it. Thanks for the tutorial on the back wedge. I’m short too so this will be very helpful. I really like your posts always interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Roses of Paris
Posted at 00:47h, 16 JanuaryLove it, Sarah! Looks just like an Equipment Paris piece. As far as I’m concerned, animal print is a neutral so I’m sure you will get lots of wear out of this quality basic. Really well done x
Sarah Wilson
Posted at 08:51h, 16 JanuaryShirts are a great wardrobe standby and in this animal print you will get lots of use from it all year round. It looks fab on you.
poppykettle
Posted at 09:22h, 16 JanuaryThis is a really beautiful shirt! So classic and effortlessly elegant, tucked in or not 😉 I adore sewing with and wearing silk crepe de chine, divine stuff.
Ebi P.
Posted at 20:19h, 17 JanuaryGreat top! Very Jungle January. 🙂
Venora Smith
Posted at 09:38h, 28 JanuaryHello Valentino,
Have you got a dress makers model adjust you clothes on?
What kind of machine do you have and do you have a cover stitch machine,
Which I’m hoping to buy. Your shirt looks wonderful.
I love watching ‘ the great British sewing bee’ on foxtel.!
But your posts are great !
Cheers from Australia
Viddy