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No need to respond and my apologies for being pesty.

Until soon :)

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Posted in Uncategorized | 4 Comments

Mood Sewing Network Lace Challenge

Ginevra dressWhile Tory Burch may refer to her Ginevra dress as the little lace sundress in the classic shade of navy, I’m calling my new navy lace dress my Easter dress, and it better warm up or I’m in trouble.

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This is my completed project for the Mood Sewing Network lace challenge and I must say I’m pleased.

IMG_0995Inspired by the Tory Burch Ginevra dress, I ordered this navy cotton lace from Mood,

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and was set to go until I saw –  and touched the actual dress in a store. I suddenly lost confidence fearing I could never make a dress that favorably compared to it….

Thank you, Readers and thank you Lynda Maynard for moving me past my apprehension!

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 Since this was my first experience to sew with lace, I vowed to limit the risk factors by selecting an easy to work with lace, keeping the project simple and sewing a familiar garment style.

 The cotton lace was a delight on many levels. Hand stitching and tracing paper marks disappeared into the sea of navy flowers.  The fabric has good body and held up well when I attached the grosgrain waistband and inserted a hand-picked zipper.

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My only surprise lay in discovering how easily  lace can stretch.  Fortunately stay-stitching the edges solved the issue.

The dress is lined with a navy china silk from Mood Fabrics. I used an older Milly cotton lace dress for reference and decided underlining was unnecessary for this fabric. Since all of my adjustments were made in the muslin the sewing went quickly and a new dress was born!

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 Sew the Perfect Fit Review Part 2

Weeks earlier I began Lynda Maynard’s online Craftsy Course, Sew the Perfect Fit. (blogged here).

sew the perfect fit The course includes Vogue 8766, and View D reminded me of the Ginevra lace dress.

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 In the 10 video lessons, Lynda Maynard demonstrates how to make the perfect muslin from this pattern on three different sized women. I quickly learned how to lengthen the too short bodice and lower the too high bust darts.

 Shortly after completing the Part 1 Review, I learned how to easily solve a fitting dilemma that has plagued my sewing for years – how to remove excessive length from the back. Linda offers a very easy solution!

 1. Measure the excessive fabric and mark.

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2. Make a horizontal cut on the pattern piece all the way to the cutting line. The pattern will now have a hinge.

 3. Adjust pattern and tape. The hinge allows the side seam to remain the same length while allowing you to get rid of the excessive fabric. It also keeps the paper pattern piece flat allowing for an accurate cut.

 4.  H e l l o :)

IMG_0998 Where have I been?

 Lynda also fits the lower body and arms, but my lower body muslin was fine and my pattern version was sleeveless. By the end of the 10th lesson, the model is fitted with the perfect muslin!

As a reminder, Craftsy is offering a 40% discount on this class to my readers for the Sew the Perfect Fit class.  Just click HERE to sign up at the discounted price!

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Building on the skills I have acquired in previous classes combined with new fitting techniques in the Craftsy course proved for a great surprise:  trouble-free sewing.

That’s right –  I have learned trouble-free sewing does exist, and I’ll be back for another fix soon!

:)

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Posted in Craftsy, Mood Fabrics, sewing blog, sewing bloggers, Sewing Dresses, Sewing with Lace, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , , | 119 Comments

MSN / Face the Lace

I’m still here at the resort.

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Lots of news at the Mood Sewing Network!

For starters, Mood has added four new bloggers to the network bringing the total to twelve.

Lori from Girls in the Garden

Lauren from LLadybird

Peter from Male Pattern Boldness

Haley from Threaded

I applaud Mood for continuing to expand the Network with creative diversity. Each of the eleven other MSN bloggers offers a unique style of photography, writing, sewing, fashion and overall character, providing ongoing inspiration to me and hopefully you!

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Did you know during the month of March, the MSN bloggers (minus the 2 newest) have accepted a lace challenge?

You can read more about it HERE on Carolyn’s post (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic).

The NY bloggers were sooooooo helpful photographing lots of laces from Mood.

Several of the bloggers have already completed and posted their lace garment. Lauren made a dynamite red dress, Oona a brilliant chartreuse top and Amanda a stunning skirt.

Me? I’ve been ambivalent……… almost fretful! 

Inspired by the Tory Burch Ginevra dress, I ordered a navy lace which I packed in my suitcase of sewing paraphernalia to contemplate over the weekend.

Before you start thinking I don’t know how to enjoy a vacation, I want to assure you I’ve socialized and taken advantage of most of the amenities.

………but back to sewing and I need your help……..

I was planning to use this pattern from the Sew the Perfect Fit class, but after seeing the dress last week in a store I panicked. The dress is exquisitely constructed and is made from the heaviest lace I have ever handled. It also features a grosgrain waistband.

Ginevra dress

Perhaps I should sew a pattern I’m familiar with like the Cynthia Rowley Simplicity tunic pattern with white underlining.

Here is the lace with navy underlining for the Tory Burch inspired dress.

IMG_0891Thumbs up or thumbs down?

Here is the lace with white underlining for the Cynthia Rowley Simplicity tunic which would be trimmed in navy.

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Yea or Nay?

I enthusiastically welcome all thoughts and advice on my upcoming challenge which I must decide in the next 24 hours.

T h a n k   Y o u   D e a r   R e a d e r s !

I’m already feeling much better :)

Posted in Mood Fabrics, Mood Sewing Network Lace Challenge, sewing bloggers, sewing blogs, Sewing with Lace, Uncategorized, Vogue Sewing Patterns | Tagged , , , , , , | 59 Comments

New Arrival at K a t i e Spade

I’m staying at a lovely 5-star resort through the weekend (not our typical getaway) – one of those places where you swap your car for bicycles upon arrival. My husband is engaged in professional activities allowing me to bring along a suitcase of sewing paraphernalia guilt free.

This morning when I discovered my white thread was left at home I called the concierge to request a sewing kit so I could hem my top.

“My apologies Mrs. Gunn, but we do not furnish sewing kits.”

My husband was slightly incredulous when I got dressed and pedaled to the nearest store to find some thread. I ended up buying a sewing kit with a minute amount of white thread at resort prices – ugh.

IMG_0846 Fortunately the kit contained enough white thread to complete my latest.

Can you tell the difference between the Kate Spade and the K a t i e  Spade?  

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It’s easy to tell the difference this time – I was able to duplicate the style and fit  but not the ruffle. My daughter’s Kate Spade blouse is so cleverly designed that I wanted to clone it.

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I ordered this vibrant blue and white silk twill from Mood Fabrics which has exceeded my expectations. The fabric weight, body and texture are perfect for a variety of garments. I want more!

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 As I began to put Kenneth King’s Clone Your Favorite Garment instructions to practice I noticed the lined shoulder tab in the Kate Spade top.

IMG_0876The seams rest on each side of the shoulder,

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and the purpose is to give a nice flat fit across the upper chest – no gaping whatsoever!

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This is my third time to clone a garment from the wonderful class, Kenneth King’s Clone Your Favorite Garment . Sadly for me, the class does not address cloning a flounce, but somehow I’m going to solve this mystery. Kate Spade’s flounced ruffle has a great drape, width and length. The edge is finished with a rolled hem.

The K a t i e  Spade flounced ruffle  is finished with a narrow hem, and the ruffle itself is shorter and wider.

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 As for the fit – I’m thrilled. Loose but not baggy, the neckline is low enough but not revealing and the shoulders are slightly cut in to elongate the arm. I can wear the shirt tucked in or left out.

IMG_0860 I’m happy to sacrifice the Kate Spade ruffle for a good fit this time. Anyhow, my yard of white thread is gone, the weekend is fast approaching and it’s time to enjoy the gift of these beautiful surroundings.

Have a good one!

Posted in Kate Spade, Mood Fabrics, Online Fabric Orders, Pattern Review Online Classes, Sewing Tops, silk | Tagged , , , , , | 61 Comments

Anchors Away

“I don’t really know how to do casual clothes.”  Oscar de la Renta

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  I don’t know how to sew casual clothes –  the kind of knock around frocks you wear on the weekend – but I’m going to learn.

I believe the art of making a simple garment requires an underestimated level of sophistication that I’ve yet to acquire.  How does one

  • Avoid the discount department store look?
  • Address excessive ease in loose-fitting patterns?
  • Achieve a finished appearance despite a lack of construction details?
  • What is Eileen Fisher’s secret?

I gave myself the assignment to sew a very casual top  – one I would wear on a spring morning while sipping coffee on the porch at the beach.

 As a devoted fan of blue and white everything, I ordered this double-faced navy and white nautical stripe cotton-blend jersey from Mood Fabrics.

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 The fabric is beachy and the price is right. I can make a top for under $15.00.

 And is it possible to get more casual than this McCall’s pattern?M6355

 I liked several things about the pattern description such as a semi-fitted garment, optional vertical darts, and a pattern designed for knits and wovens.

 All that was left to do was fit the garment and add my personal touch, which came in the form of a mistake. The fabric was too thick to fold over the double-layered neck facing forcing me to finish the seam with the serger and leave the bias facing exposed. Adding the bottom bias band seemed like an obvious next step.

What do you think?

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 I guess I passed the assignment, and I like the added touches, but I’m not completely happy.

 I opted out of sewing the vertical darts due to the weight of the fabric, but look at the line drawing – very shapely without the darts if you ask me. I didn’t believe they were necessary.

M6355 line

 T h i s   t o p   i s   j u s t   t o o   b o x y .

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 I’m not much for pity parties and I had fabric left over, so guess what?

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Kenneth King’s Clone Your Favorite Garment class to the rescue! I cloned a favorite, two-year old, J McLaughlin top and now I have just what I want.

The front fabric piece reveals the curves that give it a simple and attractive shape.
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There are no darts and the top is well proportioned.

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 This second time around I sewed French seams in the sleeves allowing me to neatly roll the sleeves and show the contrasting band.

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 As I mentioned before (blogged here), Kenneth King’s course is enlightening! No measuring is involved whatsoever, the use of materials is very efficient and it unlocks designers’ secrets to coveted clothes.  I’ll never understand why the search for simplicity is often so complex – but I suppose it’s worth contemplating one of these days while sitting on the porch at the beach – perhaps in a blue and white striped top.

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Best wishes :)

Posted in Basics, Easy Sewing, Kenneth King, McCall's Sewing Pattern, Mood Fabrics, Pattern Review Online Classes, sewing clothes, Sewing Tops | Tagged , , , , | 104 Comments

Sew the Perfect Fit – Review, Part 1

At last I’m now sewing along with Linda Maynard in her online class -

Sew The Perfect Fit!

The Craftsy course title and description completely captured my attention leading me to contact Craftsy.

sew the perfect fit“Learn how to alter your patterns to achieve a flattering fit for your body. Fit specialist Lynda Maynard teaches fitting techniques you can use to customize any pattern to your shape.”

Since I am receiving the class for free in exchange for a review, I plan to write at least two thorough posts.  I also want to let you know that Craftsy is offering a 40% discount on this class to my readers. I believe Craftsy is running a special on several sewing classes (not linked to me) as well.

Follow this link to get your 40% discount on the class.

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Lynda Maynard, widely known in the industry as a fit specialist illustrates how to fit the included Vogue dress pattern on three models of varying shapes and sizes. Many fitting issues and pattern alterations are explained.

V8766 I’m a long way from the lovely finished garment I prefer to show in my posts  -

no glamour shots today!

 Out of the ten lessons, I’ve completed seven, taking me through the construction and fitting of the muslin. I chose view D (blue dress), since I enjoy wearing straight fitted dresses and because I always seem to have trouble with the dart placement.

Just as in my last class blogged here, the beginning of the class places great emphasis on establishing proper lengthwise and crosswise grainline markings on the pattern pieces as well as proper placement on the muslin fabric.

I was quickly reminded that I am still lacking in basics even after all of my sewing over the last 18 months. For starters, I never knew I needed to true a muslin, an easy three-minute process.

After adding an additional 3/8” to the seam allowance, the crosswise and lengthwise grainlines are marked on each pattern piece. I admit I’m now obsessed about grainline issues, and marked more than Lynda’s recommended  minimum of one on each pattern piece.

V8766 Front Bodice Vogue 8766 backThankfully it was a wise decision on my part because all of my adjustments were guided by the grainlines. Lynda prefers to fit from the shoulders down, so
the muslin is constructed  and fitted in three separate parts – the bodice, skirt and sleeves.

Here I am in the bodice sewn without alterations.

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The darts are too high and the waistline, (marked by a blue W on the muslin and elastic tied across my waist), is at least an inch too high.

Saved by the grain!

Slashing the crosswise grainline marking below the armhole, pulling the waist into place and inserting a strip of fabric in the gap took care of everything.

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Lynda shows how to transfer these markings to the paper pattern pieces which is a must see.

As for the skirt, my fit was good in the waist and hips but slightly tight across the abs. Surprisingly, none of the models have this particular issue. I believe I worked out the alteration but am waiting on an answer from the instructor before proceeding.

 As with all Craftsy classes, I love the ability to take notes and interact with the instructors, as well as having access to the lessons forever. In reference to the Sew the Perfect Fit class, I was   t h r i l l e d   to learn how simple it was to address my particular fitting issue, and how easily Lynda demonstrated the solution.

The next part of my review will cover the assembly of the muslin and construction of the garment. Maybe those glamour shots will be a reality  :)

Until soon!

Posted in Craftsy, Sewing Dresses, Vogue Sewing Patterns | Tagged , , , , | 62 Comments

K a t i e Spade

Can you tell the difference between the Kate Spade and the Katie Spade?

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Most people can’t thanks to Kenneth King’s online course,

Clone Your Favorite Garment!

I’ve made several pencil skirts during the last 17  months, but was still searching for the perfect pattern when I broke down and bought my sixth garment since completing the RTW Fast in August; the Kate Spade Judy Skirt. At 60% off, the skirt was a bargain?? Surprisingly, everything about the skirt works for me, enough so that I wanted this pattern!

Enter Kenneth King.

In a series of 10 brief lessons Kenneth demonstrates how to create a pattern from a RTW jacket by marking the seamlines and grainlines with thread on the garment and tracing the markings to silk organza. With the help of carbon paper, the markings on the organza are transferred to paper.

   photo   Paper rendition

It don’t mean a thing if it ain’t got that grain!  music notes

Establishing the lengthwise grainlines was essential for success, and reproducing a simple skirt was the perfect choice for me as I tried to properly mark the lengthwise grainlines on the garment, organza and paper. One also needs to know how to assemble the pieces once making the pattern is complete.

I quickly saw a distinction between my pencil skirt patterns and the Kate Spade skirt. Quite a difference from the straight pattern pieces I had been using – and there are no front darts.

Katie Spade front

Forgetting to allow for a kickpleat in the back, I settled for a vent.

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I  selected a fabric with similar texture to be safe. Using a contemporary metal zipper and topstitching  just under the waistband are two techniques I’ve overlooked which give the skirt polish, but the fit is what I was really after.

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There is something about cut, fit and shape that I may never understand, but I do know how to follow directions. Kenneth King’s approach to copying RTW is spot on in my opinion. No measuring was involved whatsoever, the use of materials was very efficient and the end result was worth the purchase of the world’s most expensive skirt pattern :)

H E L L O   K A T I E   S P A D E ! ! 

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Posted in Kate Spade, Kenneth King, Pattern Review Online Classes, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , | 107 Comments

What I Did For Love

My sewing goal for this post was to make two pairs of Style Arc’s Elle Pants from fabric I bought over a year ago inspired by Robin of A Little Sewing. The fabrics are a hi-tech matte hybrid in chocolate-brown and red. I made the pants in black last year, blogged here.

For some reason I asked my husband’s opinion about making the pants……….

“Make  a dress out of the red fabric, like the one you had at the beach,”

Hubby was referring to his favorite dress pattern. Of all the dresses I’ve made this is his favorite.

“But Cissie, one of the RTW Fasters has already made this dress in red,” I replied.

“Does that matter? Does Cissie live here? “

“She lives a few hundred miles away, but it doesn’t matter. We sew to have one of a kind clothing and I don’t want to copy her.”

I quickly realized our conversation was headed in the Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus direction.

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Well, tonight, my husband is stepping  w a y  out of his comfort zone to help an organization dear to my heart. He is guest conducting the symphony for fundraising purposes after a three-day crash course in reading music and conducting.

Need I say more?  Cissie, I ask for your forgiveness!

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If  hubby was willing to get out of his comfort zone then I needed to get out of mine, so I cut the dress out two sizes smaller than last time to give it the close fit as described on the pattern envelope.

I quit wear tight-fitting clothes years ago, (don’t want to embarrass the children you know) but I discovered with this dress there is a difference between close fitting and tight fitting.  My new dress is very comfortable even if it doesn’t look it :)

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The ruching in the dress creates quite the silhouette which went unnoticed in the floral version I made in December.

IMG_0545And the pattern is one of the easiest dress patterns I have ever sewn.  With the exception of the center back, all of the seams were sewn on the serger, making for a speedy process!

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I may not wear this dress as much as the red pants I dreamt of sewing, but I’ve got a festive dress for holidays, a new style to further consider and a Happy Husband who’s going out on a limb for the greater good tonight!

I think Cissie will understand :)

Happy Valentine’s Day to all!

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Posted in sewing bloggers, sewing blogs, Sewing Dresses, Uncategorized, Vogue Sewing Patterns | Tagged , , | 102 Comments

A Movement?

I am thrilled, elated and joyous that the RTW Fast is catching on.

Could

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 become a movement?

In late September I was informed by a reader that the day after I completed my RTW Fast, a sew-a-long inspired by my 1 year challenge started on the Pattern Review website in my absence, with many citing me as their inspiration. I was quite moved to say the least.

Just last week I learned Pattern Therapy along with thirteen other women are hosting a year-long challenge for home sewers who want to commit to ONE YEAR of sewing to build their wardrobe. The challenge is to avoid purchasing clothing beginning  on April 1, 2013 and will run until March 30, 2014. Check it out here !

Now, I’d like to welcome three new RTW Fasters to my page!

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SANDRA

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DENISE

9127 Jane Winkler

JANE

As for the RTW Fasters at GOODBYE VALENTINO, I’d like to congratulate Linda on her 6 month anniversary.

I’m naming Jilly as the RTW Faster’s philosopher who by her thoughtful posts and insights naturally inspires the contemplative spirit within us all.

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While I won’t go into detail about every Faster, whom you can easily find HERE,  I will give you a quick summary of recent developments.

Teri  has introduced the group to the Cutting Class blog, an insider’s look at the construction techniques in haute couture. It’s fascinating  in case you are unfamiliar with it.

I must recognize Lorraine who has in a few months made a mammoth amount of clothes. Has she slept since beginning her fast?

Cissie and Barbara have made lovely Valentine attire.

Several Fasters are/have participated in challenges on websites including PR, Sew Weekly  with the latest being Victoria’s Fearless February Sew Along at 10,000 Hours of Sewing!

Last but not least I’d like to recognize, Annika one of the newsest RTW Fasters from Sweden who has hit the ground running making beautiful tops.

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My idea for starting the RTW Fasters page was to bring support and encouragement for those determined to give up RTW for a year in favor of sewing.

“A single twig breaks, but the bundle of twigs is strong.” (Tecumseh)  and this is one strong bundle of twigs.

I’m delighted to see other bloggers and websites taking initiatives to encourage RTW Fasting. Perhaps the strong bundle of twigs will gain the strength of a tree or even a forest and bring positive changes to the clothing industry.

Best wishes for a great remaining weekend!

Posted in Perseverence, Ready to Wear Fast, sewing bloggers, sewing blogs, sewing clothes | Tagged , | 25 Comments

Missoni My Way


I cannot begin to explain how much I have always wanted to own a Missoni dress. Those chevron stripes in wacky colors simply speak to me.

missoniUnfortunately, Missoni is  w a y  out of my price range. I was willing to settle for the one-time Missoni for Target line, but guess what? The event was held during my ready-to-wear fast….. sad, indeed.

Just suppose I could buy the +$1,000 dresses as I pleased…… Something tells me the size 4 on the 6 foot model would look like a different dress on 5’2″ me…… to be young, tall, thin and rich :)

Since my return to sewing clothes 17 months ago, I realize I can have my cake and eat it too, and I just completed my first Missoni dress.

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What’s even more exciting to me is the dress suits my lifestyle and my shape.

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Using this simple McCall’s pattern,  I took several precautions to avoid the potential disasters associated with sewing loosely knit striped fabric. Having made the pattern before (blogged here), I was familiar with the fit and cut a size smaller.

I selected my fabric from  d o z e n s  of Missoni knits at Mood Fabrics (write to info2@moodfabrics.com for more information on Missoni fabrics).   The crochet knit was sheer so the bodice of the dress was underlined with this cream silk knit from Mood Fabrics.

I cut fashion fabric and underlining together which I immediately basted together on the cutting table.

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Rather than cutting the pieces on the fold I opened the fabric to a single layer, cutting one side of the pattern, flipping the pattern piece over and cutting the other side. By doing this I was able to make sure the stripes were perfectly straight – my biggest fear.

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It took twice as long to cut out the pattern as it did to sew it, but once I finished cutting and basting the fabrics, the dress came together very quickly.

You can imagine my relief to see the matching stripes.

IMG_0501 I consider this dress a milestone in my sewing as I’ve always wanted to sew Missoni knits but never felt ready until recently.

Well, now I’m ready to make another one -

m y  s t y l e ,  m y   p r i c e  a n d   m y   w a y  !

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Until soon!

Posted in McCall's Sewing Pattern, Missoni Fabric, Mood Fabrics, sewing blogs, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 105 Comments