08 Nov Giveaway Winner and a Pattern Hack
Greetings!
Many thanks for the comments and tips regarding machine embroidery. It’s coming along very nicely and I’ll get there eventually.
Congratulations go to PAMELA GIANNETTO winner of the monogrammed towels giveaway! Please send me your contact information to goodbyevalentino@gmail.com by Friday, November 10 or a new winner will be selected.
In the meantime I’ve begun a new dress. Below is the inspiration ~ another Oscar de la Renta from the current Ready to Wear Collection. Lovely isn’t it?
What I like about this dress is the way it skims the body. Upon first glance the construction looks quite simple ……. until you zoom in on the image. 
I’m attempting to recreate the dress via pattern hacking from the patterns in my stash. Several of the photos below have similar lines, though none feature the raised waistline.
I measured the length of the upper bodice from this Vogue pattern – one of my favorites.
The flounce from this pattern will work.
Muslin pieces below …….
Dear Readers – Have any of you had the pleasure of seeing this dress? Do you think the flounce is lined? Better yet – does this pattern exist?🤞
I’m seeking advice from all pattern hackers and couture sewists – Many thanks. 😊
Until soon!
Anne Stoye
Posted at 07:20h, 08 NovemberIf you line the flounce to the edge (as same-size facing) that will finish the curved hem at the same time, make it feel better to wear and give a little extra weight. You have a slim waist so you could use the inspiration of this design with a more natural waistline and less pattern hacking. I look forward to seeing another stunning dress and hearing how you finally decided to make it after multiple suggestions from your blog followers.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:01h, 09 NovemberThank you, Anne! I think lining the flounce is a good idea 😉
Carolyn
Posted at 07:54h, 08 NovemberI agree with Anne about lining the flounce. My other suggestion is to listen to the pattern and let it tell you how to proceed. Many times I go into a pattern hack with one idea in mind and end up with some changes based upon working with the pattern. I’m sure you’re finished dress will be gorgeous!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:03h, 09 NovemberThank you, Carolyn! I am taking your (and Anne’s) advice and am lining the flounce. 😉
Rosalind Clayton
Posted at 08:00h, 08 NovemberVogue # 1542 has similar lines, although you’d have to modify the neckline. Also Vogue # 8948 is similar although the flounce is fuller. Just a thought if you don’t want to proceed with what you’ve already done. I agree that the flounce should be lined, it would look far nicer & will finish the hem beautifully. Look forward to what you will create!!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:04h, 09 NovemberMany thanks for your suggestions, Rosalind! For a brief time I thought the flounce might be to heavy if it was lined, but I agree – lining it is the way to go 😉
Cynthia Gilbreth
Posted at 08:43h, 08 NovemberI made a skirt from an OOP Vogue pattern that had a flounce only in the back. I lined the entire skirt right up to the flounce, then lined the flounce separately. This definitely made the flounce look very nice.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:05h, 09 NovemberThank you, Cynthia! That’s what I plan to do 🙂
Barbara Putko
Posted at 08:47h, 08 NovemberI would add a lining to the flounce, maybe china silk, just a little something to give it another layer and if it flips up, the underside it totally finished. You can even use one of the beautiful stitches from the creative icon as a understitiching detail.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:06h, 09 NovemberI love that idea, Barbara! I’ll experiment with the understitching – Many thanks!
Mary Fioretti
Posted at 08:51h, 08 NovemberI appreciate seeing your process. After my sons wedding I’m going to attempt working on thes projects. Do you exclusively purchase online fabric. My comfort level with that isn’t very high.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:07h, 09 NovemberMary,
Almost all of my fabrics are purchased online. Begin by ordering samples and you’ll eventually find a higher comfort level ;). Good luck with the wedding!
Suzanne Landau
Posted at 09:42h, 08 NovemberJoel and Sons in London UK have in their online shop Valentino pink fabric. It’s linen but with something else mixed in else and 8 I think upon enlarging the photo that it may be the very same fabric as used in this dress.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:21h, 09 NovemberSuzanne ~ You’ve introduced me to a fabulous online fabric store :). Thank you so much!
Patty Sampson
Posted at 09:54h, 08 NovemberYou might choose not to line the flounce. There will be areas of bias in the flounce. To assure a level hem the dress should be hung overnight and then pinned level to the floor. This will assure that the bias areas will relax prior to hemming.
Depending on the weight of your fashion fabric you could use a narrow chiffon hem on the flounce. An unlined flounce with the weight of a stitched hem may move more gracefully than a lined flounce. There is also a hem finish used in designer clothing that uses a narrow (approx. 3/4″) self-fabric bias strip. The fabric is pressed in half wrong sides together and then applied to the hem of the flounce (right sides together) with raw edges even using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Next, the hem and bias strip seam allowances are under stitched and the binding is pressed to the wrong side of the flounce over a ham, being careful not to over press which may stretch the hem, or create an unattractive ridge. This hem finish is frequently used in garments made of four-ply silks, and wool crepe.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:26h, 09 NovemberPatty,
I am so glad to learn about this technique. I’m making the dress from a single wool crepe. My concern was the flounce would be too heavy and lose its ability to move gracefully, like you said. I’ve learned the flounce in this dress is lined, but I’ll experiment before making a decision.
Thank you so much for your helpful comment!
Allie Jackson
Posted at 09:57h, 08 NovemberI’d be tempted to do it in a knit using the charleston dress view B (the fitted skirt) and an added flounce!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:27h, 09 NovemberHi Allie!
I’m sewing it in a wool crepe but a knit would be fabulous :). 🙂
Pamela Giannetto
Posted at 10:04h, 08 NovemberI am so excited to be the giveaway winner. I sent my information to you. Thank you so much. I love your blog. Your sewing is so awesome. I just got an embroidery machine and can’t wait to start making everything with embellishments. You are definitely an inspiration.
Maria
Posted at 15:15h, 08 NovemberCongrats Pamela! 🙂
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:27h, 09 NovemberCongratulations, Pamela! I’ll give it my all 🙂
Connie Verdeck
Posted at 11:00h, 08 NovemberWhat do you do with your muslins when you’re finished with a project?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:29h, 09 NovemberHa – ha – ha! I’ve saved almost ALL muslins which are folded, placed in a large ziplock bag, marked and placed out of sight 🙂
Kai
Posted at 11:23h, 08 NovemberI immediately thought of Vogue pattern 9202. The empire waistline is curved,but perhaps this pattern could be adapted to create the ODLR dress.
Look forward to seeing the finished dress!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:30h, 09 NovemberWhat a cute pattern! I love the sleeveless version 🙂 Many thanks for the suggestion, Kai!
Margaret Winters
Posted at 11:36h, 08 NovemberHi Sarah,
Hey June has a cute pattern called the Charleston dress which has all the lines you’re going for except for the flounce. That was on my list of makes as well, flounces move nicely when you’re swing dancing! I wouldn’t line the flounce either. It will move better.
Look forward to seeing this new one made up, you are such an inspiration to us ALL!
Best,
Margaret
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:32h, 09 NovemberThank you Margaret! To line or not to line……………
That is a cute pattern but I’m too far into the process now to change. It’s coming along but is a slower process than anticipated 😉
Joyjc
Posted at 12:14h, 08 NovemberTo line or not line of course will depend on the type of fabric you have chosen and the body you wish your flounce to display. I’ve also seen the flounce lined with a contrasting fabric for a nice subtle (or not) touch of color. The options are endless. I know that whatever you choose it will be lovely.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:33h, 09 NovemberThank you Joy 🙂 The fabric is a single wool crepe.
Maria
Posted at 13:01h, 08 NovemberThe dress on the Oscar de la Renta webside is made of 100% virgin wool… and is fully lined. (I did a live chat and asked… LOL) If you are using a similar fabric I would line as well. Can’t wait to see your finished product!! Enjoy! 🙂
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:35h, 09 NovemberAren’t you a good friend!! I should have thought to have a live chat, Maria! Yes, my fabric is a single wool crepe.
Thank you so much for your help :). 🙂
Linda (ACraftyScrivener)
Posted at 13:34h, 08 NovemberI thought the Pauline Alice Marvolosa dress was going to be it, but it doesn’t have the princess seams! Sorry, but sounds like you are the right track. I love the drop waist!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:35h, 09 NovemberThank you, Linda! It’s coming along 😉
Karla Crane
Posted at 16:51h, 08 NovemberWhat about using V8828 and adding a flounce just below the hip?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:38h, 09 NovemberKarla,
I LOVE that pattern! I’ve cut mine out , but I’m putting V8828 on my wishlist for sure. Many thanks 🙂
Mary Jo Rice
Posted at 17:35h, 08 NovemberI am not near my pattern stash, but the flounce on your dress reminds me of a Vogue/Chado-Ralph Rucci suit that featured the same hemline.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 20:41h, 09 NovemberI just checked out the pattern, Mary Jo – Vogue 1269. Great dress! My pattern is cut out but I do think your recommended pattern would be adaptable for sure :). Many thanks!
Sheila Moller
Posted at 14:51h, 11 NovemberHi Sarah,
What a great dress! Will you be using a wool crepe? Will you let us know where you purchase your fabric? I love the picture of your muslin laid out on the cutting table……you take the time to really understand the structure and design and fit of this garment…all the best with this dress. BTW thanks for reminding us about Oscar de la Renta ready to wear…..many excellent wearable and feminine styles
Pamela Elaine Smith
Posted at 04:57h, 12 NovemberGood luck with this gorgeous dress, look forward to seeing the finished garment.Pamela from Wales UK. x
Carol Bingaman
Posted at 11:13h, 20 NovemberNothing to do with your dress… This Givenchy RTW coat, https://www.givenchy.com/america/en/coat-in-wool–cashmere–lace-and-fox-fur/17A0605058-280.html?cgid=COATS_W#start=1, caught my eye and I thought of your blog. A similar coat design could provide a creative and challenging way to use your Pfaff embroidery system.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 06:02h, 21 NovemberCarol,
That is one gorgeous coat and I love the subtle embroidery! Many thanks for thinking of me 😊
Susanne H. Keller
Posted at 11:12h, 10 DecemberSarah, your black dress is phantastic, one of your best, if you do not mind my saying so. I particularly like the balanced proportions, just perfect! Très chic, Madame!