Garment #6 – Vogue 8689

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29 Feb Garment #6 – Vogue 8689

My goodness ~ thank you, Readers, for solving the pajamas vs. shirt dilemma! You overwhelmingly suggested that I stay true to my original intention, and I am taking your advice. I will wear the top as pajamas πŸ˜‰

The decision, however, left me without the boyfriend shirt I was craving. Enter garment #6.

Indeed ~ another shirt.

IMG_0091Greetings from the campus of Johnson and Wales University in beautiful Charlotte, NC. We happen to be staying in a hotel that connects with the campus, and if I was a student again, I’d fill my closet with cozy and comfortable button down shirts. This one is sewn in a chambray from Fabric.com.

The pattern is the classic Vogue 8689, and it’s definitely a keeper.

V8689

I made View B Β (featured in the larger photograph) with the bracelet sleeve length and combined with the longer hem length from View E. The princess seams and front and back yokes allow for optimal fitting.

V8689 sketch

What I really enjoyed about sewing this pattern was the professional result due to the flat-fell seam finishes used throughout the shirt’s construction.

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IMG_0039Having sewn only a few traditional shirts during the last 4 1/2 years, I’ve been working hard to sharpen my skills needed to master shirt making.Β The sleeve plackets, collar, collar stand, cuffs and front band all require precision, but practice makes perfect and I may have turned the corner with this one.

IMG_0094I have no tips to pass on through this experience….. only a thought regarding the necessity of sewing a button and buttonhole on the collar stand.

IMG_0035Since I don’t wear a tie and prefer an open collar, I find this detail not only unnecessary, but distracting. Am I wrong?

IMG_0070I know… it’s a matter of personal preference and thankfully, the gift of sewing graciously permits choices.

I’ve been on quite a shirt obsession this month thanks to my new sewing machine with its fabulous buttonhole capabilities,IMG_0056but the obsession has concluded, and the result is a trilogy of tailored patterns to accommodate different fabrics and style preferences. Β From left to right: Sewaholic Granville Shirt, Butterick 5526 and Vogue 8689

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The Granville features front bust darts, the Butterick has no darts, and the Vogue features princess seams. I have achieved the best fit in the back with the Granville pattern, but plan to keep all three patterns for future use.

IMG_0048Call me an optimist, but now that we are nearing the end of winter, I’m ready to change directions with my sewing and think Spring – how about you?

β€œDespite the forecast, live like it’s spring.” 
Lilly Pulitzer

Until soon πŸ™‚

goodbyevalentino
goodbyevalentino@gmail.com
85 Comments
  • Michele Brunskill
    Posted at 07:37h, 29 February Reply

    You did it again!! You made another beautiful shirt. I had voted that the Pajama shirt be worn as a shirt, but this one is even better. Love that colour blue on you. The perfection of the details on this shirt are to die for. Well done!! Cheers, Michele

    • Goodbye valentino
      Posted at 07:52h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Michele! I think I’ll wear this one more than I would have the PJ shirt and am glad I dove in and made one more πŸ™‚

  • Becky Bagwell
    Posted at 07:41h, 29 February Reply

    Perfection!

  • Debbie Bowdish
    Posted at 08:11h, 29 February Reply

    I’m with Becky! It is a gorgeous shirt and looks great on you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 08:14h, 29 February Reply

      Many thanks, Debbie! As I mentioned in the post, I think I’ve got it now πŸ˜‰

  • Laura Casey
    Posted at 08:31h, 29 February Reply

    Oh I think you’ve got it…a perfect shirt. My sister and I sew together (when we are together-she lives out west) and she taught me to add the buttonhole on the collar stand, but not open it…shows a neater collar stand but keeps a boyfriend shirt classic.
    LOVE the length of the sleeves and the fit by having all those princess seams.
    Starting Spring sewing this week!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:58h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you for this great tip, Laura! I’ll use it next time for sure πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

  • Cissie Wellons
    Posted at 08:49h, 29 February Reply

    Love your shirt, Sarah. Perfectly sewn! I agree with you about the button and buttonhole on the collar stand. Totally unnecessary. Even when I add them, I never open the buttonhole.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:01h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Cissie! It never occured to me to sew the buttonhole and leave it closed. You and Laura have passed along a great tip πŸ˜‰

  • Cindy Aymes
    Posted at 08:55h, 29 February Reply

    I’m not a shirt wearer, personally, but do appreciate just how stunning they can be when fit and sewn beautifully! Congratulations on a fabulous trifecta of shirts!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:02h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Cindy! I was not a shirt wearer either, until I discovered the beauty of sewing one for myself πŸ˜‰

  • Sharon E
    Posted at 09:04h, 29 February Reply

    Another winner. So complimentary on you.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:02h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you so much, Sharon!

  • Anne Rhodes
    Posted at 09:13h, 29 February Reply

    Really, really good!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:03h, 29 February Reply

      Many thanks, Anne πŸ˜‰

  • Julie Starr
    Posted at 09:13h, 29 February Reply

    Another winner, Sarah! You have the best of all possible worlds with these three patterns and have perfected shirtmaking.. I’ve never seen that Vogue one before and must pick it up. The front princess seams are so attractive. Great idea re the top buttonhole – will file that for future use!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:06h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Julie! Even with the flat-felled seams, the seamlines almost disappeared into the bodice. I appreciate the buttonhole tip Laura and Cissie have passed along too πŸ™‚

  • Wendy Grossman
    Posted at 09:36h, 29 February Reply

    Love the shirt. You look fabulous in it. And thank you for the great pattern recommendation. My ASG group is embarking on a tailored shirt project and this pattern looks like a winner.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:08h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Wendy. Please pass along any tailoring tips from your shirt project and have fun πŸ™‚

  • Ruthe Ploskunyak
    Posted at 09:43h, 29 February Reply

    Sarah, love the color, the cut and the fit. I also appreciate that you have offered up three shirt alternatives as I am a shirt wearer. I recently made the men’s version Vogue 8759 and loved the back seams, Now, I’ll try the ladies, as it offers beautiful seaming int he front, and along the yokes. Extra bonus for me would be the option of the split yoke if you ever were short of fabric (and who hasn’t had that happen on something that needs a match??). Thank you so much for pushing for perfection; it is an inspiration and a motivator for the rest of us.

    And you look fabulous!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:13h, 29 February Reply

      Ruthie – Thank you so much for this lovely comment! I questioned the split yoke on the back, but it does produce a slight contour that gives the yoke a flattering fit across the upper back.
      Perfection of course is elusive, but the quest will never end πŸ˜‰

  • kathie Bennett
    Posted at 10:07h, 29 February Reply

    This is best looking shirt you have ever made! You can wear this every season and to all occasions…or the grocery store!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:16h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Kathie! There are several elements I simply love about it, but I might make it again in a slightly dressier fabric to make it fit occasions not suited for chambray πŸ˜‰

  • Deborah Penner
    Posted at 10:30h, 29 February Reply

    Wonderful and well-fitted shirt. What will your next project be? I am looking at creating a lovely knit dress and a jacket (lined). It has been many years since I have made a jacket, and never have made a lined jacket. Any patterns you might recommend?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:20h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Deborah! Jacket styles vary as much as shirt styles, so I would select a pattern marked VERY EASY in a style you like. A collarless jacket might eliminate some complications first time around. Good luck πŸ™‚

  • Pam Brady
    Posted at 10:32h, 29 February Reply

    The Carolina Blue is beautiful on you. I am working on sharpening my limited sewing skills, and am enjoying your blog as inspiration! Thank you ~

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:23h, 29 February Reply

      I can’t let my Gamecock friends read this comment, Pam πŸ˜‰ Many thanks and good luck with your sewing!

  • Margene Yeaton
    Posted at 10:39h, 29 February Reply

    Perfect! Love the bracelet length sleeve and the princess fit is fantastic.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:24h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you so much, Margene! Long sleeves seem to make me look shorter so these are perfect πŸ˜‰

  • Jane
    Posted at 11:05h, 29 February Reply

    What did you do that I didn’t or what did I do that you didn’t? My shirt in the same Vogue pattern has little puckers along the princess seams’ top stitching, but yours doesn’t. I sewed both the seams and the top stitching from the bottom up so as to avoid the problem & used my brand new Bernina machine. Is it because my top stitching is a little wider from the seam than yours? Help, please ladies.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:29h, 29 February Reply

      Jane, I’m not sure what fabric you used, but my chambray behaved beautifully throughout the entire project. Maybe your tension was too tight or your stitch was too short. I did run an ease stitch along the side bodice front before stitching the seam which great helped shape the pattern piece. I find nothing nothing more disappointing than irritating snafus that ruin a perfectly fine project. Sorry this happened to you πŸ™

  • Sonja
    Posted at 11:08h, 29 February Reply

    What a gorgeous shirt! I love the look of the topstitched seams!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:30h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you so much, Sonja!

  • Suzanne Landau
    Posted at 11:16h, 29 February Reply

    Beautifully constructed. I think it’s time you gave US some masterclasses in collars and cuffs.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:32h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you for the vote of confidence in me, Suzanne! That would be so much fun πŸ™‚

  • Creative Hormone Rush
    Posted at 11:22h, 29 February Reply

    WOOO, that was fast! This boyfriend shirt is very attractive on you. I love the idea of building up a group of TNT blouse/shirt patterns with design lines that are really flattering on your body and fit your lifestyle so nicely. So much, in fact, that I’m going to shamelessly copy you.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:33h, 29 February Reply

      LOL – copy away and please pass along anything I can copy from you πŸ˜‰ Many thanks!

  • Leigh
    Posted at 11:23h, 29 February Reply

    It looks great! I’m glad you plan to wear the other one as pajamas. The pocket detail really screamed pajamas to me. This new shirt looks really good on you. I agree on the button/hole on the stand. I know I would never use it, but I think it might look unfinished if it wasn’t there. Perhaps sew the button on but don’t cut the buttonhole.

    I like the way you contrast the three patterns. Very helpful. I may pop for the Granville and the Butterick.

    Happy Sewing!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:36h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you so much for your comment, Leigh! Those men shook my confidence with their comments, but the shirt was made to be a PJ top all along πŸ™‚
      It never occured to me to sew a buttonhole and not cut it, until you and other readers passed this wonderful tip on to me. Many thanks and good luck with the patterns.

  • Barbara Byrne
    Posted at 11:26h, 29 February Reply

    Beautiful shape and gorgeous colour on you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:36h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you so much, Barbara!

  • Joan
    Posted at 11:44h, 29 February Reply

    Thanks very much for ID’ing our top options for shirt making patterns, Sarah! I’ve filed your post for future reference.

    And you have mastered the necessary skills!!

    I’ve figured out over time that your talents include “sticking with it through thick and thin”: very necessary if one wants to become accomplished in garment-making (and fitting)!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:39h, 29 February Reply

      I think one must stick with anything to become accomplished, don’t you? I’ve enjoyed the ability to easily document my sewing with the blog as I’ve been able to track successes, failures and everything in between πŸ˜‰
      Many thanks, Joan for your comment!

  • Ally - Design Rewind Fashions
    Posted at 13:24h, 29 February Reply

    TRULY A BEAUTIFUL SHIRT!!! I am always impressed with your sewing skills and fabric choices. I absolutely love the princess seams. You look like a super star in that shirt – and you are!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:40h, 29 February Reply

      Ah…… you make me blush πŸ˜‰ The princess seams worked beautifully with this fabric and pattern for sure. Many thanks, Ally!

  • Ally - Design Rewind Fashions
    Posted at 13:51h, 29 February Reply

    Anytime! When my sewing skills grow up I want them to be like your πŸ™‚

  • Art Attack
    Posted at 13:53h, 29 February Reply

    Great fitting shirt, Sarah! I love the front princess seams and the fact that the pattern has cup sizes. I’m a TNT Granville girl but always open to trying a new one that has a good recommendation. I, too, use that uncut buttonhole on the collar stand when I do one, which is not always, because it’s difficult to get a perfect on there. If Cissie thinks that’s not cheating then it’s good enough for me!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:14h, 29 February Reply

      LOL – Cissie knows best πŸ˜‰
      Many thanks for your comment, Dorcas. I think you would really enjoy this pattern in addition to the Granville !

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 14:15h, 29 February Reply

    The shirt looks terrific. I’d appreciate any tips you can provide on getting that obnoxious junction of collar band to front placket smooth, no bump. I usually make the button on the stand, but don’t cut it open.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:16h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Alice! I use a hammer and gently tap on the fabric (placed under organza) until the area is smooth. I’m serious πŸ˜‰

      • mary
        Posted at 23:00h, 29 February Reply

        Would you mind terribly doing a post on the ‘odd’ tips that work for you? This business of hammering, while still protecting the fabric is a good one. I hadn’t heard this before. People go on about wooden clappers, but if you can’t find/afford one…. and don’t have the equipment to make one, how does one make do? Hammers, a-ha!

      • Alice Elliot
        Posted at 16:12h, 03 March Reply

        OMG! Can’t wait to try that!

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 14:15h, 29 February Reply

    I meant, sew the buttonhole on the stand. <;~)

  • Denise Reed
    Posted at 14:19h, 29 February Reply

    This shirt looks lovely on you, and I really admire the details. The best thing about sewing it yourself is the opportunity to customize the fit to flatter your own figure. Great job.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:17h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Denise and I completely agree!

  • Marvel Donovan
    Posted at 14:54h, 29 February Reply

    Love the blouse!! Personally, I don’t use the button on the neckband, but the absence of a button on the neckband looks homemade rather than store bought. Like you, I just started seeing tailored shirts and like to have my sewn ones look just like the store bought versions. To solve the dilemma, I see the button and button hole but don’t cut the buttonhole. I’m happy!! Thanks for sharing your sewing adventures. I learn a lot.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:19h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Marvel! I’m delighted to learn about this tip of sewing but not cutting the buttonhole. I may need to sew one more shirt to get this right πŸ™‚

  • Sew, Jean Margaret
    Posted at 15:31h, 29 February Reply

    Very professionally sewn shirt! The fit is perfect and that fabric is lovely. Great work.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:19h, 29 February Reply

      Thank you, Jean!

  • krystal h
    Posted at 15:59h, 29 February Reply

    Another gorgeous make! I love your taste in fabric and pattern. You really know your stuff. I’ve got 4+ cuts of shirting i am jonesing to make into button downs and shirtdresses. (New babies make it hard to find enough time to even tracr off a pattern much less sew one.). And you are so right about the button and buttonhole on the collar stand. I prefer my top button undone, too, and think i may play with the idea of forgoing to finicky little thing.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:37h, 03 March Reply

      Hi Krystal,
      I don’t know how you find any time to sew with babies – go girl! I do like the tip I’ve received about sewing the buttonhole but not opening it, and may give it a try next time πŸ˜‰

  • Anne Beecroft
    Posted at 16:37h, 29 February Reply

    Excellent shirt making!!

    I am curious about your new brother sewing machine. Do you use it mostly (or exclusively) for the buttonhole function?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:39h, 03 March Reply

      Thank you, Anne! Right now, I’m using it mostly as I am trying to learn all of the functions, but my Bernina is close at hand πŸ˜‰

  • Gayle
    Posted at 16:57h, 29 February Reply

    Another fantastic shirt! Can’t say enough good things about it! I wonder if that buttonhole would behave if you cut it with a buttonhole cutter (with the little wooden block) instead of a seam ripper. I would put a buttonhole on the stand though just because all the RTW ones seem to be that way. As always, thank you for your inspiration!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:40h, 03 March Reply

      Many thanks Gayle!
      I have forgotten about the buttonhole cutter which I once owned. GREAT advice πŸ™‚

  • Fiona M
    Posted at 17:55h, 29 February Reply

    That really is a stunningly gorgeous shirt! The colour is so pretty on you too.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:41h, 03 March Reply

      Many thanks, Fiona! I am crazy about the color too πŸ˜‰

  • Thelma Ferris
    Posted at 18:24h, 29 February Reply

    This is a superb shirt in every detail. I’m encouraged to finish one I had put aside and go on and make another. Thank you.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:41h, 03 March Reply

      Thank you, Thelma, and good luck finishing your shirt πŸ™‚

  • Gerhild
    Posted at 21:50h, 29 February Reply

    Beautiful shirt. I love the top-stitching. And the fit is perfect. By the way, I’m glad you decided to use the other shirt for your PJs.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:43h, 03 March Reply

      Many thanks, Gerhild! I know this shirt will get lots of wear πŸ˜‰ ………and I agree, the other should remain a pajama top.

  • Mary Funt
    Posted at 23:02h, 29 February Reply

    This one is a keeper. I agree with the majority that the last one was better for PJ wear as it was less fitted. Beautiful work; shirts do require loads of precision details.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:44h, 03 March Reply

      Thank you, Mary! It’s all in the details, huh?

  • Myra
    Posted at 07:27h, 01 March Reply

    This is a beautiful shirt! I absolutely love the color! So are you taking your time and gaining the experience and confidence you needed to pull off this wonderful shirt! Great work!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:47h, 03 March Reply

      Many thanks, Myra! It did take time to work through making shirts, but after three in a row I’m beginning to get it πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

  • Debbie Findlay
    Posted at 09:03h, 01 March Reply

    Thanks for your insight to shirt making…which I don’t like to do! But I agree with you, the collar stand can be removed, The shirt pattern I do occasionally sew has no collar stand and I like the softer look. Great #6!

    Debbie

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:50h, 03 March Reply

      Thank you, Debbie! What shirt pattern do you like to sew?

  • Trish
    Posted at 22:23h, 01 March Reply

    I am practicing flat felled seams. When I get them perfect this shirt will be my reward. (I need a carrot dangling in front of me to keep perfecting.)

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:50h, 03 March Reply

      Trish,
      My challenge is making sure all of the seams were the same size, otherwise, I enjoy this technique πŸ™‚

  • Margo
    Posted at 10:46h, 05 March Reply

    Fabulous shirt! I agree with you on the subject of a button in the button stand…I thought that maybe I was just being lazy about adding it…well, I guess I am but it is also distracting. Sewing for spring is all I can think about now!

  • Heidi Sage
    Posted at 22:20h, 06 March Reply

    Like anything you sew again a super good looking garment. Congratulations! Job well done. I do admire your sewing talent..

  • Deb Weaver
    Posted at 08:46h, 08 March Reply

    Great shirt. I’ve been looking at that pattern. Do you like your new sewing machine? I’ve been looking at that model also. Is service an issue if a Brother machine isn’t bought through a dealer? Does anyone know?

  • Marguerite
    Posted at 11:26h, 25 March Reply

    Simply beautiful. As I have said many times….you really know your best styles. The button up shirt can look anything from frumpy to starchy stiff. But you stay in that Carolina Herrera category of cool class! She even wears hers with glamorous evening skirts! I can picture you in such an outfit.
    I do agree with the posters that say to keep the top button but not cut it open. Good tip! I think the best thing about these types of shirts is that they are casual to a point but never sloppy. In that way, worn over jeans or longer versions over leggings, they elevate what could be a too casual look. Thanks for always being such a wonderful inspiration to us all!

  • Jennifer Shaw
    Posted at 18:19h, 24 April Reply

    I love your new button down shirt!! It is the most gorgeous shirt. I love how beautiful it is on you- the color and the lines of the shirt. Would you recommend this for linen? I am starting my summer sewing plan with a bright coral colored linen and contemplating a variety of tailored shirt patterns.. Thank you for all of the inspiring garments that you make!

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