Garment 1 – Butterick 6103

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05 Dec Garment 1 – Butterick 6103

The completion of Garment #1 was delayed due to the recent death of my mother-in-law, Elizabeth Neuburger. “Lib” lived to the age of 92 and remained young at heart until the end. Though boating was her passion later in life, she sewed beautifully and especially loved to needlepoint. Our family has a treasure of beautiful Christmas stockings and lovely smocked dresses that money cannot buy. This post is dedicated to Lib.

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Greetings 🙂

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Well, here it is, the first of 40. In approximately 345 days, I’ll be celebrating the new 40 with 40 new garments made by moi.  I’m beginning the challenge with Butterick 6103.

 I’ve made only one lined jacket during my four years and four months of blogging which was under the guidance of Susan Khalje. While I adore the jacket, it took 100 hours to complete and I’ve never had the urge to make another jacket until now.

I knew the pattern’s princess seams would allow for easy alterations to easily achieve a flattering fit, and couldn’t possibly take 100 hours to sew.

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Not only did I need a jacket to pull a few basics together……. I needed some color to combat the winter drabs!

Mood Fabric’s Green on Black Polka Dotted Polyester Jacquard caught my eye online but nearly blinded me when I opened the package!  (more colors here)

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I began with View C  featuring the long draped back, but switched to a more fitted silhouette 3 seconds afters seeing this photo of the muslin. Donald Duck, perhaps?

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Much better!

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 I truly enjoyed the construction process of this garment. Because I know so little about tailoring and jacket construction, I kept the instructions close at hand along with the 1980 edition of The New Vogue Sewing Book. Rather than attach the jacket and lining (minus the arms) in one fell swoop, I broke it into manageable sections. The Vogue sewing book recommends starting at the center of the collar, attaching 1/2 at a time to prevent slipping and shifting.

Attach lining and collar starting in the center of the collar

Attach lining and collar starting in the center of the collar

Once the collar and lining were stitched together, I continued and stitched the neckline and front facings to the lining. Before sewing the lower edge and lining together, I turned the garment to check for symmetry in the notched collar as well as checking the jacket length  before continuing.

Stitch lower edges after checking the collar symmetry and jacket length.

Stitch lower edges after checking the collar symmetry and jacket length.

The sleeve lining was attached to the lower edge of the sleeve, then slipstitched to the shoulder. I love this method as it reduces stress points in the lining.

Lining attached at lower edge of sleeve.

Lining attached at lower edge of sleeve.

...then slipstitched to shoulder

…then slipstitched to shoulder

To turn the jacket into a festive winter garment, I trimmed the jacquard using a black velvet on the upper collar and front facing….

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…and added black sleeve cuffs.

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I’m also digging the pockets of this pattern 😉

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So, #1 is complete, and though it may not be as finely tailored as Hubby’s, it’s added a new dimension to my wardrobe in both style and color.

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Happy December to all!

Until soon.

 

 

goodbyevalentino
goodbyevalentino@gmail.com
88 Comments
  • Debby
    Posted at 04:08h, 05 December Reply

    Sorry for your loss. Cherish the memories and handmade treasures!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:52h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Debby. We have lovely memories indeed 🙂

  • Anne
    Posted at 05:27h, 05 December Reply

    Nice jacket. Well done on #1. Sorry to hear of your sad loss.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:54h, 05 December Reply

      Many thanks, Anne! Lib and her husband are reunited – hopefully on a boat together sipping martinis. 😉

  • Kim Dimond
    Posted at 05:48h, 05 December Reply

    What great memories your MIL has left for your family. The jacket is beautiful! I am so glad to see your posts back as they are so inspiring. I am off to Williamston to our “All About Fabric” to get fabric for large Santa Sacks..Not nearly as inspiring but should be fun to make..

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:57h, 05 December Reply

      Thanks so much, Kim! Making Santa Sacks will be fun indeed – and not too difficult!

  • Marysia Paling
    Posted at 06:05h, 05 December Reply

    Hi Sarah,
    So lovely to see you in my inbox this morning.
    Sad to hear of the passing of your beloved Mother in Law, but what wonderful memories you all have of this lovely lady.

    Your jacket is beautiful and I especially like the addition of the black velvet to make it a truly one off garment. Butterick patterns this season had quite a think about the elongated back detail, and I think that you did the right thing amending the pattern. I worked Butterick 6172 this summer in white linen and I too removed the tail!!

    Wishing you and your family a peaceful, fun and loving Christmas..

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:02h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Marysia! We miss Lib and the memories are great comfort.
      I just took a look at B 6172, and without seeing your garment, know you did the right thing too. The “tail” on my jacket added about 8 inches to my hips – no thank you 😉

  • Sew, Jean Margaret
    Posted at 06:15h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry to hear of the loss of your Mother in Law. Sounds like she has left you with some wonderful memories.

    Your jacket is gorgeous and that colour is perfect for the festive season. Beautiful sewing as always.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:04h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Jean! The color was a shocker but it all worked out 😉

  • Jan Crews
    Posted at 06:59h, 05 December Reply

    Deepest condolences in the loss of a grand lady. How wonderful that she was a part of your daughters’ lives for so many years.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:06h, 05 December Reply

      Many thanks, Jan. We will miss her and how right you are – the girls were very fortunate to have a loving grandmother in their lives for so long 😉

  • Julie Starr
    Posted at 07:15h, 05 December Reply

    Such a lovely trubute to your mother in law, Sarah. You’re off and running on your challenge and if this jacket is any indication, you’re going to have a productive year! I love the festive touch of velvet and seeing your construction photos. Holiday cheer, for sure!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:36h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Julie – she was a fun lady and will be missed.
      As far as the jacket goes, it was a worthwhile project and I hope to make another 😉

  • Laura Casey
    Posted at 07:52h, 05 December Reply

    Very cute post…and your dedication to your mother-in-law was sweet with the various pictures…..enjoy Christmas…..I am!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 08:04h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Laura! Asheville is bound to be festive in December 🙂

  • Patti Hall
    Posted at 07:54h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry for your loss. I know you will cherish the fond memories! I am thankful that you explained the way you lined the jacket – it looks like that would be a great way to do It. Not sure I am brave enough to tackle one, but when I do, I will come back to this post.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 08:05h, 05 December Reply

      Many thanks, Patti! I found the pattern to be very well instructed, but I’m glad I had other references too 😉

  • Becky Bagwell
    Posted at 08:12h, 05 December Reply

    Love it all! Especially sharing memories of Billy’s sweet Mom.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:49h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Becky 🙂

  • Irene
    Posted at 08:17h, 05 December Reply

    My sincere condolences.
    Your jacket looks beautiful! Very festive.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:49h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Irene 😉

  • Myra
    Posted at 08:23h, 05 December Reply

    So very sorry about your mother-in-law Sarah .

    Your jacket is absolutely stunning! And I love your Christmas tree too!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:51h, 05 December Reply

      Hi Myra!
      Sadly the tree is not mine, but sits in the lobby of my husband’s office building. Many thanks for the comment 🙂

  • Cynthia
    Posted at 08:27h, 05 December Reply

    Merry Christmas! Your jacket is gorgeous! (So is your tree!)

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:53h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Cynthia! It was really a fun project to sew. The tree…….. sits in the lobby of my husband’s office. I only wish it was mine 😉

  • Bernice Ramsey
    Posted at 08:29h, 05 December Reply

    Hope you and your family have a wound earful holiday. Your jacket is stunning.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:53h, 05 December Reply

      Many thanks, Bernice! I really enjoyed this project 🙂

  • Fran Giacobbe
    Posted at 08:30h, 05 December Reply

    It is never easy to lose a parent but I am sure that the many “Lib” moments will ease your loss. As always your project looks wonderful and I look forward to your “40” new inspirations ..in 345 days! You always “WOW” me!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:55h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Fran. We have many wonderful memories of Lib. I might “wow” you, but frankly, I scare myself at times 😉 🙂 the clock is ticking!

  • Cindy Aymes
    Posted at 08:40h, 05 December Reply

    Lovely tribute to your mother in law. And a lovely jacket too! I like the “idea” of a tail on an outfit, but it doesn’t sit well on my 5′ frame either! Your jacket is the perfect length and a great outfit for Christmas. And I too will come back to your sewing of the lining when I get to that stage in my jacket. All the best of he holiday season! Cindy

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:58h, 05 December Reply

      Many thanks for your nice comment, Cindy! That ‘tail’ needs to be sewn in a lighter weight fabric and trimmed down for sure. 😉

  • Kate
    Posted at 09:19h, 05 December Reply

    Beautiful and inspiring work!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:59h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Kate!

  • Marla Cooprider
    Posted at 09:21h, 05 December Reply

    I’m sorry to hear of the loss of your mother-in-law. Prayers to the family. I love the jacket. I recently purchased this jacket pattern. At only 5′ tall I don’t think I would want the long “tail”! So looking at the other views! I love the black velvet as an accent. I’m just a little leery of using velvet as I have a tendency to be a perfectionist and rip things out till I’m satisfied. I would have to be extremely careful to get it right the first time! I admire your bravery! 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:01h, 05 December Reply

      Many thanks, Marla! The ‘tail’ made the coat look like a costume, although it could be cute in a lighter weight fabric combined with some alterations.

      • Marla Cooprider
        Posted at 17:20h, 05 December Reply

        Good idea. I’m considering the view with the shorter “tail” possibly. But other projects ahead after Christmas! I enjoy your blog so much!

  • Denise Thompson
    Posted at 09:51h, 05 December Reply

    Very sorry for your loss. Life tends to put things in perspective. I LOVE the jacket you made. I’m impressed that you make muslins for your garments so often _ LOL. The green color is beautiful on you.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:03h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you, Denise! Can you imagine if I had not made a muslin and made the jacket with a big fluffy green tail? LOL

  • Janee
    Posted at 09:57h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry for your loss. I love the image of your mother-in-law and her husband on a boat together now – that’s how I think of my mom and dad, too. Your family will treasure those handmade lovelies as time goes past.

    Your jacket is wonderful – and a great start to this ambitious project!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:04h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you for your nice comment, Janee. Indeed we have always treasured our handmade gifts and you’re right – they’ll become even more special now.

  • Deborah Penner
    Posted at 10:14h, 05 December Reply

    Love the decision to use the version without the tail. I rejected this pattern at first because of the long tail, but your version inspires new possibilities for this pattern.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:05h, 05 December Reply

      Great, Deborah! I hope you’ll give the pattern a try 🙂

  • Gayle
    Posted at 10:19h, 05 December Reply

    Please accept my sympathy for your loss. It’s so hard to lose a beloved family member, especially at this time of the year.

    Your jacket looks wonderful on you! Can’t wait to see the next garment.

    Merry Christmas to you and yours and a very happy New Year!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:07h, 05 December Reply

      Thank you so much , Gayle. The next garment is in the works 🙂

  • Karon Scptt
    Posted at 10:59h, 05 December Reply

    My first thought when you pictured the different back view was the longer also…..but aren’t muslins great to teach us how things look and fit. Love the completed jacket. You are amazing in choices of colors and patterns. Merry Christmas

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:08h, 06 December Reply

      Many thanks, Karon! Years ago I rarely made muslins which may be the reason I quit sewing clothes. It’s rare that I sew a new pattern without one 😉

  • CarolinasCallin
    Posted at 11:19h, 05 December Reply

    Well, you had me at “green and black” – what a fun fabric! Love your new jacket, and I’m really admiring your commitment to doing forty garments this year – especially because I have no doubt that you’ll actually DO it! This is a terrific start – the color is great on you, too, and I love the style of this jacket! Well done, as usual!

    So very sorry to hear about your mother-in-law – but what wonderful memories she has left you! How special to be using the Christmas stockings she made every year that will keep her a ‘part’ of things always. She must have been very proud of everything you’ve accomplished with your own sewing 🙂

    Enjoy your holidays and have a very blessed Christmas!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:11h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Cheryl!
      I suppose a 100-hour jacket is nothing compared to our gorgeous stockings 😉 I’m not sure Lib ever understood what a blog is, but she did love the Spartanburg magazine article.
      Merry Christmas!

  • Sidney Evans
    Posted at 12:10h, 05 December Reply

    I just recently found your blog and I am so excited to see what you will be sewing next. I used to sew a lot of my kid’s clothes, but that has tapered off over the years. Thanks for new inspiration; that is a beautiful jacket!
    Peace to your hearts after the loss of your mother-in-law. It’s a tough life passage to lose parents.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:13h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you, Sidney for your nice comment! I once sewed clothes for my children too which I thoroughly enjoyed, but sewing my clothes the second time around has been great fun 🙂

  • Marguerite
    Posted at 12:12h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry for your loss of such a great lady. It’s a blessing you had her for so long though. What wonderful memories for your family.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:14h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you, Marguerite! We have great memories, indeed 🙂

  • Barbara Carlon
    Posted at 12:25h, 05 December Reply

    Great color on you and so festive! Just last night I wore a holiday coat that I had made and received so many nice compliments. It seams must women these days just wear black. Wait ’till you go out and about in that colorful coat (with just the right amount of black). Get ready to say “Thank you, I made it!”

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:16h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you, Barbara! I gave it a test run a few days ago, and enjoyed the compliments. I agree that it has the ‘right amount’ of black 🙂

  • PL ART
    Posted at 13:04h, 05 December Reply

    I love your clothing and attitude toward life. Your green jacket is exquisite. Hope you’ll respond to my question: how do you fit yourself so well? Wish you’d tell us since so many of us sew without a fitting buddy. Many thanks for your time spent on your blog. I follow it closely and have gotten much inspiration from it..

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:21h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you for this lovely comment, PL.
      As for fitting, the muslin is key for me. I primarily but not always sew patterns from the Big Four and am familiar with how these patterns will fit me. I also study the line drawing carefully before buying a pattern to determine what may need adjusting on my 5’2″ frame. It really does get easier!
      I do not have a fitting buddy either 😉

  • Carol Ware
    Posted at 13:29h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry for family loss. 92 years is truly a blessing! Your jacket is wonderful! So festive and happy! Happy holiday season!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:22h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Carol!

  • Jennifer Shaw
    Posted at 13:52h, 05 December Reply

    I am sorry to hear of your loss. . It sounds that your mother-in -law was an absolute delightful person. My thoughts are with you and your family.

    I so love your beautiful new jacket! It is perfect on you. The contrast of the colors is stunning. How do you figure out the proportions of length for coats and jackets? I am so happy to have found your blog, because it is so inspirational.

    Wishing you and your family a wonderful Holiday season.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:25h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you, Jennifer! Lib was such fun and will be missed.
      I knew I wanted a long jacket to wear with slim jeans, leggings and pencil skirts. Taking photographs of muslins is critical for me as photos provide me with a much better picture of the overall fit than looking in the mirror 😉

  • Samina
    Posted at 14:14h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry for your loss. I lost my own mother earlier in 2015 at the age of almost-90.
    That is a lovely jacket! Looking forward to seeing the other 39 garments 🙂

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 07:26h, 06 December Reply

      Many thanks for your nice comment, Samina!

  • Lydia Ruiz
    Posted at 14:36h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry for your loss. Life is simply too short and we are never ready to say goodbye.

    Your jacket is beautiful. Any ideas what your next project will be?

    Sincerely,
    Lydia

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:07h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you, Lydia! Next project will be jeans or a refashioned dress 🙂

  • Karen Helm
    Posted at 15:36h, 05 December Reply

    Your lovely words about your mother-in-law were delightful to read – I suspect very strongly that she shared similar lovely thoughts about you! I know you will miss her. Your jacket is beautiful and really makes a statement – so perfect for the holidays. What a good start to your challenge.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:09h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Karen! I know you’ve made many jackets – I was relieved this one turned out well 😉

  • Margene Yeaton
    Posted at 16:37h, 05 December Reply

    Was so excited to see a new post from you. Very nice comments about your MIL, Lib! Happy for her that she had all of you to share her life with and now she is off to her next adventure. Bless you all at this time of your loss.

    You continue to inspire not only with the garments you make, but with all the color you bring. I’m changing from a more black/dark wardrobe and adding color after discovering your blog. Love the green and it is good to see that you proceeded after the initial bright shock. Enjoyed your details about the lining. Your blog reminds me of things with balance: not too much, not too little, but JUST RIGHT! Can’t wait to see garment #2! NO, I mean it, I can’t wait!:)

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:11h, 06 December Reply

      Your comment is so sweet, Margene – thank you!
      It’s so easy to get into the rut of dressing in black and forgetting how a little color can go a long way 🙂

  • Maggie Edger
    Posted at 17:28h, 05 December Reply

    Enjoyed the pics of Lib. I remembered how lovely she looked at Katie’s wedding. Memories are wonderful! Sarah, I would buy that jacket in a minute if one were available. I love it. You, the jacket and your tree are so pretty. See you soon. A Maggie

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:12h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you, Maggie! It is a beautiful tree, but it sits in the lobby of Billy’s office. I knew it would look good with my jacket 🙂 🙂

  • Marilyn Kelly-Clark
    Posted at 18:54h, 05 December Reply

    Beautiful job on the jacket-love the colors on you. Your tree is beautiful as well. So sorry about your Mother-in-Law passing, She looked like a very fun lady. Wonderful that you had her in your lives for so long. Merry Christmas to you and your family. I really enjoy your blog!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 12:13h, 06 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Marilyn! I should have stated from the start that the tree is in my husband’s office and does not belong to me 😉

  • Wendy
    Posted at 20:00h, 05 December Reply

    I’m so sorry to hear about the loss of your MIL. Life is precious and just too short. I’m sure she loved having you as a DIL! Your jacket is beautiful. I love seeing techniques used from the Vogue new sewing book published in 1980. Oh, how I remember using that book as a guide while taking a tailoring class in high school. That’s where I first learned tailoring techniques and that book was used as a guide. With so many shortcuts taken today, I just love the old way of doing it all. You always do a beautiful job and inspire us all. Thank you so much for sharing with us!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:38h, 07 December Reply

      Many thanks for your nice comment, Wendy! I had not looked at the book in a while and find it to be very current 35 years later 🙂

  • Carolyn
    Posted at 20:05h, 05 December Reply

    Sorry to learn about your MIL’s passing. It seems that she lived a full and amazing life. The jacket is very pretty. I love how you added the black velvet to it!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:42h, 07 December Reply

      Thank you, Carolyn! She had a great life and leaves us with wonderful memories 😉

  • Gerhild Turner
    Posted at 20:14h, 05 December Reply

    I’m so sorry for your loss. I am glad you had such a great relationship with your Mother-in-Law. I love the jacket and the black accents. Great choice for going with the shorter version. Have a wonderful holiday season.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:44h, 07 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Gerhild! The shorter version was definitely the right decision 🙂

  • Tomasa
    Posted at 21:12h, 05 December Reply

    So sorry for your loss. Your jacket is beautiful and I love the bright happy green color. Perfect for the holidays! You’ve done a great job – gorgeous.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:45h, 07 December Reply

      Many thanks, Tomasa! The jacket is a happy one and I look forward to wearing it during the holidays 😉

  • Mary Funt
    Posted at 07:10h, 07 December Reply

    What wonderful photos. Lib’s zest for life and her love shows. How fortunate that your family has such wonderful memories.
    Your jacket is lovely and perfect for the festive season. Happy holidays and I’m looking forward to seeing your next 39 creations.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:21h, 08 December Reply

      Thank you so much, Mary!

  • Lesley Murray
    Posted at 09:00h, 07 December Reply

    So sorry for your recent loss. My own mother was 80 this year – but can no longer sew, knit etc very well because of neuropathy in her fingers. However, she passed her sewing skills down to me and one other sister (of 4 girls).
    I’m trying to liberate material from my stash, and am making a jacket from worsted wool. The first I’ve attempted as I used to have two ladies who did sewing and design for me.
    i purchased the fabric back in the 80;s which rates as vintage in the UK. The mustard colour is still current and it compliments a skater style dress (still unfinished from 2 years ago) which has a red and mustard check running through it.
    Luckily, there is a couture sewing class only 2 miles from my home. Our tutor is very firm, but I have mentioned your blog to other class members and her too.
    I have so many projects on the go, and so little time. Having seen your brilliant fabrics from Italy, I will be seeking out all manner of fabric shops or market stalls when I go to Prague on Dec 13.
    So much for using up my stash.
    BW
    Lesley.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:22h, 08 December Reply

      How I would love to have easy access to a couture class! Good luck with your jacket, and have a great trip to Prague.
      Many thanks for the comment, Lesley 🙂

  • Margo
    Posted at 07:19h, 08 December Reply

    Your mother in law sounds and looks like a lovely lady, I’m sorry for your loss Sarah. Your jacket is gorgeous and I love this new challenge you have set out on! 40 garments seems doable and I look forward to seeing each and every one!

  • SP
    Posted at 14:39h, 09 December Reply

    Love your jacket! So festive! Loved the fabric choice to add the black velvet – it grounded the color. I was wondering whether you considered a bagging method to lining the jacket? Your adventures in sewing are so inspiring to me – thank you for sharing!

    Sorry for your family’s loss – cherish the memories!

  • Lucy
    Posted at 13:40h, 10 December Reply

    I’m very sorry for your loss. It sounds like your family was lucky to have such a wonderful woman as an inspiration.
    I love your jacket. The fit looks great and the color is wonderful. I’m looking forward to following your sewing adventures building your “40” wardrobe. I think it is a fabulous idea.

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