30 Mar DVF Cotton Lace Skirt
Just a skirt?…… Not to me!
When the DVF floral bordered cotton lace arrived on my doorstep last Spring from Mood Fabrics, I knew it deserved the royal treatment, but I didn’t expect this special fabric to be in queue for nearly a year.
Greetings from Scottsdale, Arizona, the new hometown of my daughter and son-in-law. It’s only 2,019 miles away from South Carolina. 😉
I once heard Susan Khalje say that she could keep someone busy for an entire week sewing a pencil skirt. Now, I know what she means, for I spent one week making my couture pencil skirt. The skirt consists of 4 layers – the lace, cotton oxford, silk organza and bemberg rayon lining.
I cut the fabric on the crosswise grain to take advantage of the scalloped border. Then I spent a day securing the oxford to the lace so it would behave as one piece of fabric. In the beginning I knotted and clipped my thread after each stitch, but found that simply knotting was enough.
The silk organza became layer number 3, which was basted to the lace and oxford cloth. In couture sewing the seam line is traced onto every pattern piece and seam allowances are generous. Since this is my 5th Katie Spade skirt to sew, I was tempted to skip this step and cut a 5/8″ allowance. Now I am thankful I followed the rule as all of the layering can affect the fabric edges and throw off the entire fit of the garment.
The pattern, modeled after the Kate Spade Judy skirt is truly my favorite skirt to sew with no front darts and beautiful shaping along the side seams. The waistband sits at the waist and is not only comfortable but perfect for those rare tuck-in occasions. I may move the zipper to side the next time around.
Sadly, this lace is no longer available, but here is a link to Mood Fabrics’ lace. The oxford cloth was from my stash, and the whisper white silk organza and bemberg rayon linings are readily available from Mood.
I intended to make a two piece dress for my daughter’s Bridesmaids’ Luncheon last August using the vintage McCall’s pattern 8500. While the event has changed my pattern intentions have not, and I hope to be back soon with the second half of my outfit and an entirely different look!
Best wishes 🙂
Vivian Katz
Posted at 09:52h, 30 MarchThis is just lovely. So many layers in a seemingly simple lightweight skirt., but it is perfect for Arizona at this time of year.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 10:24h, 30 MarchThank you, Vivian! I’m headed back to SC tomorrow and hope to wear it with regularity there 🙂
Charlene Greyard
Posted at 10:25h, 16 AprilI am new to your blog and just love it! I too live in South Carolina, had a daughter and her husband living in Tucson, AZ for seven years! They then moved it Maine, and this summer, are moving back to SC. So possibly that looooog plane ride will be a thing of the past for you one day! I am so inspired for the first time in many years to cosy back up to my sewing machine because of you. I adore this outfit especially with the gorgeous matching top. I have bough online from your link, the pattern for the ruffle neck top, and am making it in a nice quality white cotten sateen. I only hope I can raise that neck and widen the ruffle as successfully as you did!
Anelise Newman
Posted at 10:51h, 30 MarchWhat a beautiful skirt! It’s perfect for ringing in the spring. I”m amazed at how much exquisite work you put into it.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 13:59h, 30 MarchThank you, Anelise! I knew from the beginning the lace would need special treatment – so glad I put it on the back burner until recenly so I could give it the attention it deserved 🙂
Barbara Carlon
Posted at 11:19h, 30 MarchLovely skirt, I really want to do some sewing with lace in the near future and was wondering if you would share the purpose of the silk organza layer. Is it just to give it body? Thanks, Barbara
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:01h, 30 MarchBarbara – The silk organza serves to help the skirt hold its shape and prevent wrinkling. Had I not made a fitted skirt I would have omitted this step 🙂
Many thanks for your comment and question!
Clarinda
Posted at 11:23h, 30 MarchIt looks absolutely lovely – tres chic! Have a peep at my blog two posts back (Magnificent Mortmain) to see a pair of shoes (wooden clogs actually – Scandi Chic) which I think would look brilliant with your lace skirt – a lovely juxtaposition between the delicacy of the lace and the sturdiness of the wood.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 13:57h, 30 MarchHi Clarinda – what cute shoes you are wearing!! Many thanks for the suggestion, the lovely comment and for introducing me to your blog 🙂
justine
Posted at 11:48h, 30 MarchBeautiful! Your hard work really makes a difference!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:32h, 30 MarchMany thanks, Justine! Careful work on an easy pattern is never a bad thing 🙂
moushka26
Posted at 11:52h, 30 MarchExquisite skirt. The colour is perfect for you, too, and i love the necklace. I feel for you having your daughter so far away. My daughter lived in Paris for over ten years. Her eldest son was born here but they quickly moved back.to France. It was torture. Now, with Skype, it’s not quite so bad for my sister with her daughter in Florence.
To Barbara, I would think the silk organza would help keep the wrinkles at bay, as well as support the lace.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:33h, 30 MarchSkype, facetime, airplanes………… fortunately they are in a fantastic city 🙂
Many thanks for your comment Musdhka!
Rita Hollaay
Posted at 12:06h, 30 MarchI predict you will enjoy your trips to Scottsdale. We winter in Tucson (live in Nashville) and head home Apr. 1. I kow it is a great distance from your home, but at least it is an interesting place to visit. Great skirt! You never did say if you got the blue spot out of the pink blouse.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:36h, 30 MarchThank you, Rita! The blue spot is still there with a white ring around it thanks to all of my scrubbing 🙁
And I agree – the area is interesting, beautiful and a great destination spot. I’d love to spend a winter out here!
Tina Spear
Posted at 12:08h, 30 MarchSarah, do you use this method (fashion fabric, organza, lining) with all the skirts you make? The way Susan Khalje shows?
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:38h, 30 MarchTina, I do not always make my skirts the Susan Khalje way, but I’m certainly glad I know what to do when the fabric or style dictates couture sewing 🙂
maddie
Posted at 12:39h, 30 MarchLike a fine wine, the fabric needed time before it was used well. You look regal!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:40h, 30 MarchThank you, Maddie 🙂
Marysia Paling
Posted at 12:46h, 30 MarchBeautifully executed as always. Perfect fit and the lace is bang on trend at the moment.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 14:42h, 30 MarchThank you Marysia! I’ve sewn a little lace in the past but nothing like this. Now on to the top 🙂
Ally - Design Rewind Fashions
Posted at 13:01h, 30 MarchGorgeous! Thank you for the tip on marking each pattern piece’s seam allowance separately. I recently did the skirt sloper class on Craftsy (WONDERFUL!) and will remember to do that. Also, you use color so well. Love the colors you choose for your projects!
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:53h, 31 MarchMany thanks for your nice comment, Ally! Lavender/orchid/lilac and periwinkle may be my favorite color group 🙂
Lori
Posted at 13:35h, 30 MarchThis is a stunning skirt and thanks for the marking tip. I think this would be super cute with a chambray blouse for a casual look, too. You definitely will get so much use from the gorgeous skirt.
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:54h, 31 MarchMany thanks, Lori! I too, think I’ll wear this skirt throughout the Spring and Summer 😉
Ann-Britt Uhrbom
Posted at 14:00h, 30 MarchIt´s lucky that so much work has resulted in an absolutely gorgeous skirt. I like everything about it, the color, the fabric and the pattern. The model looks absolutely gorgeous too.
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:55h, 31 MarchAh….. this is such a sweet comment, Ann-Britt 🙂 🙂 Many thanks!
Alice Elliot
Posted at 14:54h, 30 MarchYour skirt is lovely. I love a side zipper too…lapped, looks so much more couture…and maybe hand picked?
I made a top and skirt similar to McCalls 8500, back when it was not vintage <;~). I made it in champagne silk brocade with a gold thread, for a very fancy event. It was one of my favorite outfits ever. Can't wait to see what you do with that pattern.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 15:04h, 30 MarchAlice, My zipper is handpicked and looked perfect and invisible unitl I say this picture. Can you tell me what happeedd??
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:56h, 31 MarchTo correct my typos……….. ..and invisible until I saw this picture. Ca you tell me what happened??
Julie Starr
Posted at 15:02h, 30 MarchI recall being astonished when Susan spoke those same words to our class. Thanks for showing the insides so we could see all your hard work. I didn’t realize your Katy Spade skirt had no darts until now. How lucky you are to have this pattern to reproduce at will. I also love the dramatic backdrop of cactus in your photos. So different from our South Carolina landscapes! Happy Easter to you and yours.
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:49h, 31 MarchThank you, Julie! I showed the insides before they took on a life of their own 😉
Happy Easter to you too !
Vicki Maiorano
Posted at 15:58h, 30 MarchBeautiful!
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:49h, 31 MarchThank you, Vicki!
Sew, Jean Margaret
Posted at 16:30h, 30 MarchBeautiful! This pattern is becoming your signature piece.
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:50h, 31 MarchHi Jean! Many thanks – I plead guilt to overmaking the skirt 😉
Barbara
Posted at 17:08h, 30 MarchWhat an elegant skirt and that lilac colour is lovely. I really appreciate the construction details you’ve provided, so interesting.
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:51h, 31 MarchThank you so much, Barbara 🙂
Nancy
Posted at 20:09h, 30 MarchOhh I love that! I’ve been thinking of making a lace skirt – now that I’ve seen yours, it’s definitely going on my list!
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:52h, 31 MarchThank you, Nancy 🙂 Good luck with your lace skirt !
Rosalie Message
Posted at 21:57h, 30 MarchLove your Katie Spade, Made a Katie Spade last month. Striped top and skirt with appliqued roses ( I used lilies). Looked great.
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:47h, 31 MarchHi Rosalie – that sounds very cute! 😉
Sewellen
Posted at 07:01h, 31 MarchGorgeous, as usual!
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:46h, 31 MarchMany thanks, Sew Ellen 🙂
Cindy Aymes
Posted at 07:37h, 31 MarchSimply gorgeous! I can’t believe that you even HAVE side seams! Wow!
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:45h, 31 MarchThank you, Cindy! It’s a wonderful pattern. Maybe you recall that I bought the Kate Spade Judy skirt a couple of years ago and traced the pattern using Kenneth King’s method. It’s the most expensive ‘pattern’ I own but I believe I’ve made it worthwhile 😉
Gayle
Posted at 11:47h, 31 MarchWonderful job, as always! Thank you for showing the detail in photos and your explanations. They are very much appreciated!
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:43h, 31 MarchMany thanks, Gayle! 🙂
Mary Lynn
Posted at 12:17h, 31 MarchLovely skirt and it will make a great outfit! I was wondering why you used the oxford cloth? When I read about
the many layers, it seems like whatever you’re making might seem heavy when you’re through. How did you attach the cloth
that took you a day and you started out sewing and knotting? Also did you get your dress form fixed and what kind
did you get? Sorry, I’m being such a nosy Parker today. “Inquiring minds want to know!”
Goodbye Valentino
Posted at 13:42h, 31 MarchThank you, Mary Lynn! Ask away!!!! I often intentionally omit information that I think readers may already know but I’m happy to answer questions. Here goes:
I used oxford cloth because I liked the color and it was in my stash. I thought about silk but cotton is so breathable. I needed something to back the lace and the grayish lavender color was soothing in my opinion.
I attached the cloth by hand inserting the needle from the oxford cloth side and catching a small piece of the lace from behind. Take a look at the photo above. 🙂 At first I knotted and clipped after each stitch, then I just knotted and left a little slack between each knot.
The skirt is substantial but not ‘heavy’ I love it and wore it to dinner over the weekend. It did not wrinkle and wore very well.
I did not really get my dress form fixed. It’s passable but I don’t trust fitting a pattern on it. 🙁
Mary Funt
Posted at 15:32h, 31 MarchBeautiful job and the fit is perfect. I guess you’ll be logging loads of airline miles back and forth to Arizonia.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 15:47h, 31 MarchThanks, Mary! You are correct…….. Arizona is certainly on my radar now. 🙂
Laurie
Posted at 16:54h, 31 MarchMagnificent! Such a lovely color!
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 09:04h, 01 AprilMany thanks, Laurie!
Sharon kane
Posted at 07:13h, 03 AprilVery cute skirt! I too was wondering why all the layers but another reader beat me to the question and your response was great. Understanding the reason for all the layers, did you apply all layers to the waistband? And, did you eventually sew the skirt with a 5/8 seam allowance? Thanks.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 15:44h, 05 AprilThank you, Sharon! I trimmed the large seam allowances after sewing to approximately 1 inch, and I did use th layers in the waistband in lieu of interfacing.
Carlee McTavish
Posted at 07:47h, 03 AprilWow! I like this even more than the original Kate Spade! Perfect for Easter/spring 🙂
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 15:44h, 05 AprilMany thanks, Carlee! It’s one of my favorites too 🙂
MaryEllen
Posted at 12:09h, 03 AprilYour tips & info are always so inspiring . I so admire the thought process that goes i to your exquisite garments .
If you ever want to do a meet up sometime you are in AZ let me know. I understand seeing family is always first on the list
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 15:45h, 05 AprilThank you, MaryEllen! I’d love to meet up sometime in Scottsdale 🙂
Aracellis Lopez
Posted at 17:03h, 04 AprilWhat a lovely skirt. The color of the lace is sew pretty. I always really enjoy reading your post. I learn sew much from them. :- ) I really like the fit on the skirt and how the waistband looks. I would love to try and make one.
Thanks,
Aracellis
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 15:47h, 05 AprilThank you Aracellis! I love this waistband too. It hits at just the right spot and is comfortable 🙂
joelyne
Posted at 17:44h, 04 AprilI absolutely love this skirt. Looks fab on you.
J
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 15:47h, 05 AprilMany thanks, Joelyne!
designdreamer
Posted at 20:45h, 12 AprilWelcome (although I’m pretty sure you’re no longer here) to Scottsdale!
Welcome to your daughter and SIL. You’ll no doubt be back. Love the skirt. Love the idea of a matching lace top. At least that’s what I’m assuming you’re doing.
goodbyevalentino
Posted at 21:58h, 12 AprilScottsdale is fantastic, and I hope to be back soon!
Many thanks for your comment,. I am almost finished with the top 🙂
DVF Lace, Part II - Mood Sewing Network
Posted at 01:01h, 15 April[…] with the skirt blogged here, the top consists of four layers of fabric which include the heavy cotton lace, oxford cloth, silk […]
Lynn Pias
Posted at 16:34h, 23 JulyI made a dress from mood cotton eyelet fabric and have enough left to make a skirt for my grown daughter. She lives out of town so I can’t access her current skirts, can you suggest a pattern for a plain pencil skirt?
Thanks!