DVF Cotton Lace Skirt


30 Mar DVF Cotton Lace Skirt

Just a skirt?…… Not to me!

When the DVF floral bordered cotton lace arrived on my doorstep last Spring from Mood Fabrics, I knew it deserved the royal treatment, but I didn’t expect this special fabric to be in queue for nearly a year.


Greetings from Scottsdale, Arizona, the new hometown of my daughter and son-in-law. ย It’s only 2,019 miles away from South Carolina. ๐Ÿ˜‰


I once heard Susan Khalje say that she could keep someone busy for an entire week sewing a pencil skirt. Now, I know what she means, for I spent one week making my couture pencil skirt. The skirt consists of 4 layers – the lace, cotton oxford, silk organza and bemberg rayon lining.

I cut the fabric on the crosswise grain to take advantage of the scalloped border. Then I spent a day securing the oxford to the lace so it would behave as one piece of fabric. In the beginning I knotted and clipped my thread after each stitch, but found that simply knotting was enough.

IMG_1983The silk organza became layer number 3, which was basted to the lace and oxford cloth. In couture sewing the seam line is traced onto every pattern piece and seam allowances are generous. Since this is my 5th Katie Spade skirt to sew, I was tempted to skip this step and cut a 5/8″ allowance. Now I amย thankful I followed the rule as all of the layering can affect the fabric edges andย throw off the entire fit of the garment.

The pattern, modeled after the Kate Spade Judy skirt is truly my favorite skirt to sew with no front darts and beautiful shaping along the side seams. The waistband sitsย at the waist and is not only comfortable but perfect for those rare tuck-in occasions. I may move the zipper to side the next time around.

IMG_0026ย IMG_0016ย ย IMG_0036
Sadly, this lace is no longer available, but here is a link to Mood Fabrics’ ย lace. The oxford cloth was from my stash, and the whisper white silk organza and bemberg rayon linings are readily available from Mood.

I intended to make a two piece dress for my daughter’s Bridesmaids’ Luncheon last August using the vintage McCall’s pattern 8500. While the event has changed my pattern intentions have not, andย I hope to be back soon with the second half of my outfit and an entirely differentย look!



Best wishes ๐Ÿ™‚




  • Vivian Katz
    Posted at 09:52h, 30 March Reply

    This is just lovely. So many layers in a seemingly simple lightweight skirt., but it is perfect for Arizona at this time of year.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 10:24h, 30 March Reply

      Thank you, Vivian! I’m headed back to SC tomorrow and hope to wear it with regularity there ๐Ÿ™‚

      • Charlene Greyard
        Posted at 10:25h, 16 April Reply

        I am new to your blog and just love it! I too live in South Carolina, had a daughter and her husband living in Tucson, AZ for seven years! They then moved it Maine, and this summer, are moving back to SC. So possibly that looooog plane ride will be a thing of the past for you one day! I am so inspired for the first time in many years to cosy back up to my sewing machine because of you. I adore this outfit especially with the gorgeous matching top. I have bough online from your link, the pattern for the ruffle neck top, and am making it in a nice quality white cotten sateen. I only hope I can raise that neck and widen the ruffle as successfully as you did!

  • Anelise Newman
    Posted at 10:51h, 30 March Reply

    What a beautiful skirt! It’s perfect for ringing in the spring. I”m amazed at how much exquisite work you put into it.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:59h, 30 March Reply

      Thank you, Anelise! I knew from the beginning the lace would need special treatment – so glad I put it on the back burner until recenly so I could give it the attention it deserved ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Barbara Carlon
    Posted at 11:19h, 30 March Reply

    Lovely skirt, I really want to do some sewing with lace in the near future and was wondering if you would share the purpose of the silk organza layer. Is it just to give it body? Thanks, Barbara

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:01h, 30 March Reply

      Barbara – The silk organza serves to help the skirt hold its shape and prevent wrinkling. Had I not made a fitted skirt I would have omitted this step ๐Ÿ™‚
      Many thanks for your comment and question!

  • Clarinda
    Posted at 11:23h, 30 March Reply

    It looks absolutely lovely – tres chic! Have a peep at my blog two posts back (Magnificent Mortmain) to see a pair of shoes (wooden clogs actually – Scandi Chic) which I think would look brilliant with your lace skirt – a lovely juxtaposition between the delicacy of the lace and the sturdiness of the wood.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 13:57h, 30 March Reply

      Hi Clarinda – what cute shoes you are wearing!! Many thanks for the suggestion, the lovely comment and for introducing me to your blog ๐Ÿ™‚

  • justine
    Posted at 11:48h, 30 March Reply

    Beautiful! Your hard work really makes a difference!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:32h, 30 March Reply

      Many thanks, Justine! Careful work on an easy pattern is never a bad thing ๐Ÿ™‚

  • moushka26
    Posted at 11:52h, 30 March Reply

    Exquisite skirt. The colour is perfect for you, too, and i love the necklace. I feel for you having your daughter so far away. My daughter lived in Paris for over ten years. Her eldest son was born here but they quickly moved back.to France. It was torture. Now, with Skype, it’s not quite so bad for my sister with her daughter in Florence.

    To Barbara, I would think the silk organza would help keep the wrinkles at bay, as well as support the lace.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:33h, 30 March Reply

      Skype, facetime, airplanes………… fortunately they are in a fantastic city ๐Ÿ™‚
      Many thanks for your comment Musdhka!

  • Rita Hollaay
    Posted at 12:06h, 30 March Reply

    I predict you will enjoy your trips to Scottsdale. We winter in Tucson (live in Nashville) and head home Apr. 1. I kow it is a great distance from your home, but at least it is an interesting place to visit. Great skirt! You never did say if you got the blue spot out of the pink blouse.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:36h, 30 March Reply

      Thank you, Rita! The blue spot is still there with a white ring around it thanks to all of my scrubbing ๐Ÿ™
      And I agree – the area is interesting, beautiful and a great destination spot. I’d love to spend a winter out here!

  • Tina Spear
    Posted at 12:08h, 30 March Reply

    Sarah, do you use this method (fashion fabric, organza, lining) with all the skirts you make? The way Susan Khalje shows?

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:38h, 30 March Reply

      Tina, I do not always make my skirts the Susan Khalje way, but I’m certainly glad I know what to do when the fabric or style dictates couture sewing ๐Ÿ™‚

  • maddie
    Posted at 12:39h, 30 March Reply

    Like a fine wine, the fabric needed time before it was used well. You look regal!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:40h, 30 March Reply

      Thank you, Maddie ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Marysia Paling
    Posted at 12:46h, 30 March Reply

    Beautifully executed as always. Perfect fit and the lace is bang on trend at the moment.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:42h, 30 March Reply

      Thank you Marysia! I’ve sewn a little lace in the past but nothing like this. Now on to the top ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Ally - Design Rewind Fashions
    Posted at 13:01h, 30 March Reply

    Gorgeous! Thank you for the tip on marking each pattern piece’s seam allowance separately. I recently did the skirt sloper class on Craftsy (WONDERFUL!) and will remember to do that. Also, you use color so well. Love the colors you choose for your projects!

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:53h, 31 March Reply

      Many thanks for your nice comment, Ally! Lavender/orchid/lilac and periwinkle may be my favorite color group ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Lori
    Posted at 13:35h, 30 March Reply

    This is a stunning skirt and thanks for the marking tip. I think this would be super cute with a chambray blouse for a casual look, too. You definitely will get so much use from the gorgeous skirt.

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:54h, 31 March Reply

      Many thanks, Lori! I too, think I’ll wear this skirt throughout the Spring and Summer ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Ann-Britt Uhrbom
    Posted at 14:00h, 30 March Reply

    Itยดs lucky that so much work has resulted in an absolutely gorgeous skirt. I like everything about it, the color, the fabric and the pattern. The model looks absolutely gorgeous too.

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:55h, 31 March Reply

      Ah….. this is such a sweet comment, Ann-Britt ๐Ÿ™‚ ๐Ÿ™‚ Many thanks!

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 14:54h, 30 March Reply

    Your skirt is lovely. I love a side zipper too…lapped, looks so much more couture…and maybe hand picked?
    I made a top and skirt similar to McCalls 8500, back when it was not vintage <;~). I made it in champagne silk brocade with a gold thread, for a very fancy event. It was one of my favorite outfits ever. Can't wait to see what you do with that pattern.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:04h, 30 March Reply

      Alice, My zipper is handpicked and looked perfect and invisible unitl I say this picture. Can you tell me what happeedd??

      • Goodbye Valentino
        Posted at 13:56h, 31 March Reply

        To correct my typos……….. ..and invisible until I saw this picture. Ca you tell me what happened??

  • Julie Starr
    Posted at 15:02h, 30 March Reply

    I recall being astonished when Susan spoke those same words to our class. Thanks for showing the insides so we could see all your hard work. I didn’t realize your Katy Spade skirt had no darts until now. How lucky you are to have this pattern to reproduce at will. I also love the dramatic backdrop of cactus in your photos. So different from our South Carolina landscapes! Happy Easter to you and yours.

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:49h, 31 March Reply

      Thank you, Julie! I showed the insides before they took on a life of their own ๐Ÿ˜‰
      Happy Easter to you too !

  • Vicki Maiorano
    Posted at 15:58h, 30 March Reply


  • Sew, Jean Margaret
    Posted at 16:30h, 30 March Reply

    Beautiful! This pattern is becoming your signature piece.

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:50h, 31 March Reply

      Hi Jean! Many thanks – I plead guilt to overmaking the skirt ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Barbara
    Posted at 17:08h, 30 March Reply

    What an elegant skirt and that lilac colour is lovely. I really appreciate the construction details you’ve provided, so interesting.

  • Nancy
    Posted at 20:09h, 30 March Reply

    Ohh I love that! I’ve been thinking of making a lace skirt – now that I’ve seen yours, it’s definitely going on my list!

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:52h, 31 March Reply

      Thank you, Nancy ๐Ÿ™‚ Good luck with your lace skirt !

  • Rosalie Message
    Posted at 21:57h, 30 March Reply

    Love your Katie Spade, Made a Katie Spade last month. Striped top and skirt with appliqued roses ( I used lilies). Looked great.

  • Sewellen
    Posted at 07:01h, 31 March Reply

    Gorgeous, as usual!

  • Cindy Aymes
    Posted at 07:37h, 31 March Reply

    Simply gorgeous! I can’t believe that you even HAVE side seams! Wow!

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:45h, 31 March Reply

      Thank you, Cindy! It’s a wonderful pattern. Maybe you recall that I bought the Kate Spade Judy skirt a couple of years ago and traced the pattern using Kenneth King’s method. It’s the most expensive ‘pattern’ I own but I believe I’ve made it worthwhile ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Gayle
    Posted at 11:47h, 31 March Reply

    Wonderful job, as always! Thank you for showing the detail in photos and your explanations. They are very much appreciated!

  • Mary Lynn
    Posted at 12:17h, 31 March Reply

    Lovely skirt and it will make a great outfit! I was wondering why you used the oxford cloth? When I read about
    the many layers, it seems like whatever you’re making might seem heavy when you’re through. How did you attach the cloth
    that took you a day and you started out sewing and knotting? Also did you get your dress form fixed and what kind
    did you get? Sorry, I’m being such a nosy Parker today. “Inquiring minds want to know!”

    • Goodbye Valentino
      Posted at 13:42h, 31 March Reply

      Thank you, Mary Lynn! Ask away!!!! I often intentionally omit information that I think readers may already know but I’m happy to answer questions. Here goes:
      I used oxford cloth because I liked the color and it was in my stash. I thought about silk but cotton is so breathable. I needed something to back the lace and the grayish lavender color was soothing in my opinion.
      I attached the cloth by hand inserting the needle from the oxford cloth side and catching a small piece of the lace from behind. Take a look at the photo above. ๐Ÿ™‚ At first I knotted and clipped after each stitch, then I just knotted and left a little slack between each knot.
      The skirt is substantial but not ‘heavy’ I love it and wore it to dinner over the weekend. It did not wrinkle and wore very well.
      I did not really get my dress form fixed. It’s passable but I don’t trust fitting a pattern on it. ๐Ÿ™

  • Mary Funt
    Posted at 15:32h, 31 March Reply

    Beautiful job and the fit is perfect. I guess you’ll be logging loads of airline miles back and forth to Arizonia.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:47h, 31 March Reply

      Thanks, Mary! You are correct…….. Arizona is certainly on my radar now. ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Laurie
    Posted at 16:54h, 31 March Reply

    Magnificent! Such a lovely color!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:04h, 01 April Reply

      Many thanks, Laurie!

  • Sharon kane
    Posted at 07:13h, 03 April Reply

    Very cute skirt! I too was wondering why all the layers but another reader beat me to the question and your response was great. Understanding the reason for all the layers, did you apply all layers to the waistband? And, did you eventually sew the skirt with a 5/8 seam allowance? Thanks.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:44h, 05 April Reply

      Thank you, Sharon! I trimmed the large seam allowances after sewing to approximately 1 inch, and I did use th layers in the waistband in lieu of interfacing.

  • Carlee McTavish
    Posted at 07:47h, 03 April Reply

    Wow! I like this even more than the original Kate Spade! Perfect for Easter/spring ๐Ÿ™‚

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:44h, 05 April Reply

      Many thanks, Carlee! It’s one of my favorites too ๐Ÿ™‚

  • MaryEllen
    Posted at 12:09h, 03 April Reply

    Your tips & info are always so inspiring . I so admire the thought process that goes i to your exquisite garments .
    If you ever want to do a meet up sometime you are in AZ let me know. I understand seeing family is always first on the list

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:45h, 05 April Reply

      Thank you, MaryEllen! I’d love to meet up sometime in Scottsdale ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Aracellis Lopez
    Posted at 17:03h, 04 April Reply

    What a lovely skirt. The color of the lace is sew pretty. I always really enjoy reading your post. I learn sew much from them. :- ) I really like the fit on the skirt and how the waistband looks. I would love to try and make one.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:47h, 05 April Reply

      Thank you Aracellis! I love this waistband too. It hits at just the right spot and is comfortable ๐Ÿ™‚

  • joelyne
    Posted at 17:44h, 04 April Reply

    I absolutely love this skirt. Looks fab on you.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 15:47h, 05 April Reply

      Many thanks, Joelyne!

  • designdreamer
    Posted at 20:45h, 12 April Reply

    Welcome (although I’m pretty sure you’re no longer here) to Scottsdale!
    Welcome to your daughter and SIL. You’ll no doubt be back. Love the skirt. Love the idea of a matching lace top. At least that’s what I’m assuming you’re doing.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 21:58h, 12 April Reply

      Scottsdale is fantastic, and I hope to be back soon!
      Many thanks for your comment,. I am almost finished with the top ๐Ÿ™‚

  • DVF Lace, Part II - Mood Sewing Network
    Posted at 01:01h, 15 April Reply

    […] with the skirt blogged here, the top consists of four layers of fabric which include the heavy cotton lace, oxford cloth, silk […]

  • Lynn Pias
    Posted at 16:34h, 23 July Reply

    I made a dress from mood cotton eyelet fabric and have enough left to make a skirt for my grown daughter. She lives out of town so I can’t access her current skirts, can you suggest a pattern for a plain pencil skirt?


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