Burda 7044 – Party Dress!

21 May Burda 7044 – Party Dress!

Nearly 10 years ago I invested in a ‘Chakra Portrait’. I visited with a Median who drew a pot of cascading flowers during our chat. It was nothing like I expected, and at the conclusion of our 90 minutes together I ask her to explain the drawing of my Chakra energies…..

Her reply was that I needed more yellow in my life. I laughed it off but Marcy the Median was right. I need more yellow in my life.
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It’s a color I rarely wear or gravitate towards, but now, seeing the color yellow, be it a daffodil, summer squash, yellow room or this gorgeous fabric reminds me of Marcy’s comment.

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Greetings from Charleston’s Hotel Bennett, the South’s new grand and luxury hotel. We’re in town for a garden wedding reception at the William Aiken House, a lovely historic property in the center of Charleston.

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Mood Fabrics’ Oscar de la Renta cotton and silk faille caught my eye which I immediately ordered. The distinctive ribbed texture, heavy weight and lovely sheen combined with the floral print spelled Garden Wedding Reception Dress to me!

I retrieved a pattern deep in my stash for the dress – Burda 7044. Now out of print, it is available on Etsy and Ebay.

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The tailored one- inch ruffle sealed the deal for my pattern choice.

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After making a quick muslin shell I cut out the pattern but was stumped by the assembly instructions of the ruffle facing, ruffle, overlay and underskirt. My shortcoming I’m sure.

To help me assemble the pieces I turned to the dress that started my blog – my one and only Valentino.

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I discovered no ruffle facings were used. The ruffle was stitched, serged and pressed, and if it’s good enough for Valentino……….  Knowing I need not apply the facings was such a relief which led me to chart my own course.

Since pictures can tell the story better than words……

I pieced together 200 inches of fabric for the ruffle and gathered the ruffle on a ruffler attachment.

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Even though the dress is lined, I followed Burda’s instructions to finish the seam allowances on each piece which was well worth the time and effort.

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My construction process of the overlay assembly looked like this:

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Construction Order:

  1. Dress front
  2. Dress front, topped with skirt overlay and dress front overlay basted together on the left and stitched to side front seam on the right to ruffle marking.
  3. Dress front overlay clipped at marking. Ruffle partially attached
  4. Full photo of #3
  5. Side seam attached. The ruffle is sewn into the side seam to the overlay curve where it then remains free.

It’s true, partially attaching the ruffle before sewing the back and side seams of the dress meant I the had to carry the ruffle around, however I was able to tweak the fit before completing its attachment. I shortened the length and reduced the sweep by 6 inches.

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Viola!

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I chose to omit the bow due to the print of the dress, but I see a black dress in my future with a lovely bow!

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Many thanks to Mood Fabrics for the opportunity to sew on this luscious fabric, and cheers to the color YELLOW!  May it illuminate your life with its cheerful presence 🙂

goodbyevalentino
goodbyevalentino@gmail.com
55 Comments
  • Anne Stoye
    Posted at 07:49h, 21 May Reply

    Lovely dress, looking so fresh and summery, and, as ever, a superb and flattering fit. Does the back of the pattern envelope include a diagram of the pattern pieces? If so, would it be possible for you to post the image please. And maybe a photograph of the inside of the dress? Despite your photographs I am not convinced that I fully understand how to cut and sew a similar wrapped front.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:00h, 21 May Reply

      Thank you, Anne!
      I’m away from home and don’t have the pattern with me. The illustrations in the image above are the illustrations on the pattern back. I’m happy to take a photo of the inside but the lining is a shell which covers the multiple front pieces, however I just noted the construction steps above. Hope it helps. 😉

    • Anne Stoye
      Posted at 11:53h, 21 May Reply

      Thank you very much for the clarification – multiple centre front pieces has made all clear – I had been expecting a partial underlap not a full piece overlap so wasn’t on the right wavelength initially.

  • PatB
    Posted at 07:50h, 21 May Reply

    Love it. Thank you for showing your process, I am so impressed by the even ruffle. I need to buy that attachment. Beautiful fabric and choice of pattern that is perfect for You. The amazing feeling that you are wearing a dress unique to you. Thank you for your inspiration.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:01h, 21 May Reply

      Thanks so much, Pat! A ruffler attachment is worth the investment 😀😀

  • joyjc
    Posted at 08:22h, 21 May Reply

    Yellow is my favorite color! But that dress is absolutely gorgeous! You did an excellent job and you look great in that dress!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:02h, 21 May Reply

      Many thanks, Joy! I like yellow too but for some reason I have only 4 yellow garments 😉

  • Bronwyn David
    Posted at 08:26h, 21 May Reply

    Glorious. Like a ray of sunshine.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:03h, 21 May Reply

      Thank you, David 😀

  • Peggy Leah
    Posted at 08:37h, 21 May Reply

    Love silk faille. Your dress is beautiful. and yellow IS
    under-rated. your dress looks very couture and the
    ruffle really is important. You are such an inspiration!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 09:04h, 21 May Reply

      I’m a new silk faille fan for sure, Peggy! The ruffle transforms the dress in my opinion. Many thanks for your comment😀

  • Mary Funt
    Posted at 10:27h, 21 May Reply

    Wonderful look. The ruffle makes it and the ruffler must have saved you hours and hours. I also loved your wedding look dress ; the Italian fabric was spectacular.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:10h, 22 May Reply

      Mary ~ So nice to hear from you! I love and adore the ruffler😉 Many thanks for the compliment on the wedding photo. Hank took it and it’s not one I would send out but ……go with the flow!!

  • Carol
    Posted at 10:39h, 21 May Reply

    Thank you Sarah
    Love the dress, color, print and fit
    I am in the midst of updating my Spring/Summer wardrobe
    This season will definitely include more yellow as well
    I would also like to thank you for your inspiring blog
    I have been a sewest for years and had no idea so many wonderful blogs and resources existed
    or that the RTW Fast was a thing
    I never seem to find the styles, fabrics, colours or sizes I need or Want
    Made by Me seems like the best way to remove that frustration from my day to day
    I ordered your Tunic Bible last week and am anxiously awaiting its arrival tomorrow
    Thank you for taking the time to share so thoroughly
    Much appreciated
    Carol
    PEI, Canada

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:14h, 22 May Reply

      Such a lovely comment, Carol! One of the aspects of sewing I always touch on when speaking to groups is the Online Sewing Community. I would not be sewing without it. The inspiration and support is unlike anything I’ve seen 😀
      …..and I agree with you…… If you are looking for something in particular, just sew it!!! Many thanks for ordering The Tunic Bible!

  • Ohhmy
    Posted at 10:41h, 21 May Reply

    Here are just a few “superlatives” definition online: excellent, magnificent, wonderful, glorious, marvelous, brilliant, supreme, consummate, outstanding, dazzling. BEAUTIFUL, TOO!!! So well done, Sarah!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:16h, 22 May Reply

      OHHMY…….goodness!!!!! Thank you! I too love it and could not be more pleased 😀

  • LuLu Thomas
    Posted at 11:34h, 21 May Reply

    You look amazing in your creation. I am very jealous of your abilities but always inspired. Thank you for sharing!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:18h, 22 May Reply

      Thank you, Lulu! No need to be jealous – I truly stared at the instructions for over 2 hours and still had no clue what to do 😩 Perserverence is the key to successful sewing for sure!

  • Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
    Posted at 11:45h, 21 May Reply

    that is super cute and the yellow was a pretty choice. I never wear yellow but paired with white I might give it a try. As well as try to recreate that pattern using a simple princess seamed dress – I’m all about reusing patterns I already have. 🙂 Looks great on you.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:22h, 22 May Reply

      Thank you, Beth! If anyone can reinvent a pattern it’s you 😀 Look forward to seeing what you do!

  • Alice Elliot
    Posted at 12:29h, 21 May Reply

    I would never think a tiny ruffle could have so much effect. I love the whole look. Another success!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:23h, 22 May Reply

      Alice ~ I completely agree with you about the ruffle. Details matter for sure 😉

  • Alex in California
    Posted at 14:15h, 21 May Reply

    You look beautiful. I feel you are right about omitting the little bow (maybe a big honking magnolia instead). The little bow might make the dress too cute but absolutely right for the little black dress. It’s always a treat to come see what treasure you have created – thank you.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:25h, 22 May Reply

      Alex, If I had had time before leaving I would have created a Dior Rose embellishment. Many thanks for your comment!

  • Migdalia Báez
    Posted at 14:33h, 21 May Reply

    Perfection!!! I love that your finish projects are always so nicely pressed. Your work inspires me to strive towards perfection. Thank you for sharing.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:26h, 22 May Reply

      PRESSING MATTERS! It can often be the difference between success and failure when sewing. Many thanks, Migdalia 😉

  • Rosalind Clayton
    Posted at 14:52h, 21 May Reply

    As always, totally FABULOUS!!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:27h, 22 May Reply

      Thank you so much, Rosalind!

  • Visitor
    Posted at 15:12h, 21 May Reply

    That looks great.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 14:28h, 22 May Reply

      Many thanks 😀😀

  • Karey
    Posted at 15:57h, 21 May Reply

    The yellow really suits you. It brings out lovely warm tones in your skin. You should definitely include more of it.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:26h, 23 May Reply

      I plan to Karey! Many thanks for your comment 😊

  • Terri Baker
    Posted at 19:11h, 21 May Reply

    Oh My heavens!! This dress is my very favorite ever!! It’s perfect for you!!! May see you in Boston!!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:37h, 23 May Reply

      Thank you, Terri! It’s one of my favorites as well for many reasons. Hope to see you in Boston 😊

  • Hang-Trang
    Posted at 19:36h, 21 May Reply

    I totally agree, you need more yellow. It’s a color I rarely think about because if you get the wrong shade, it doesn’t do it. You look young and gorgeous in this one. I think it’s called “jaune Pernod”, just like the liquor.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:39h, 23 May Reply

      You are so right about finding the correct shade of yellow! I’ve never heard of this shade 😂 Many thanks for your comment, Hang-Trang!

  • Maggie Edger
    Posted at 20:00h, 21 May Reply

    One of my all time favorites. You look so pretty. I must agree, YELLOW is you. Love, A Maggie

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:39h, 23 May Reply

      Thank you, Maggie! Something about the weight and sheen of the fabric took it to another level 😊

  • Lynda Thomas
    Posted at 20:02h, 21 May Reply

    Yellow is a beautiful vibrant color for you,

    I noticed in the photo of you with the ruffle dangling to the floor that this skirt length (before red file is added)
    is a great length for you. Shows off you legs.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:40h, 23 May Reply

      Thank you, Lynda! Are you saying the dress should be shorter in your opinion?

  • Lynda Thomas
    Posted at 20:04h, 21 May Reply

    Let me rewrite this. Dang autocorrect,

    That skirt length before ruffle is added is a good length for you.

  • Claire
    Posted at 22:16h, 21 May Reply

    What a great dress Sarah and the ruffle really is your signature! Perfect for a garden reception. Isn’t wedding season the best??

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:42h, 23 May Reply

      Claire ~ I love wedding season and ruffles 😊 Perhaps the two go hand in hand…….
      Many thanks for your comment and hope you’re doing well!

  • Anne Dawahare
    Posted at 06:43h, 22 May Reply

    Fabulous dress and as always your fitting is perfect. I also enjoy yellow and made a yellow dress for one of my son’s graduation events. Yellow does the soul good.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:43h, 23 May Reply

      ‘Yellow does the soul good’ I’m remembering that one, Anne! Many thanks for your comment 😊

  • Kathy T
    Posted at 11:32h, 22 May Reply

    Thank you for sharing this beautiful, well fitted dress. You did a great job and have inspired me to make myself a summer dress as well.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:44h, 23 May Reply

      Thank you, Kathy! I truly love making dresses and hope you will too. Good luck 😉

  • Karen Of Fifty Dresses
    Posted at 14:05h, 22 May Reply

    Such a successful make, Sarah! I LOVE everything about this dress, and you employed one of fashion sewing secrets by going to a similarly styled RTW dress to figure out a construction technique. This is just lovely, and yes, you should wear more yellow. It suits you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:46h, 23 May Reply

      Thank you so much, Karen!! I would have been lost without the RTW dress as a guide, but its all water under the bridge now 😊 More yellow for sure!

  • Margo Bergman
    Posted at 16:29h, 22 May Reply

    Pretty dress Sarah!! love the color on you!

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 06:46h, 23 May Reply

      Margo ~ So nice to hear from you and many thanks for the comment. Hope you are enjoying your new adventures😊😊

  • Rita Holladay
    Posted at 15:53h, 26 May Reply

    Love the yellow dress; I always fall for ruffles!! Am I correct in reading in the section on Julie Starr’s Chanel jacket that she and her friend from Houston will have a sew along in January? If so please keep us posted about how to sign up, etc.

    • goodbyevalentino
      Posted at 23:02h, 26 May Reply

      Thank you, Rita! Follow Julie and Dorcas on their Instagram accounts for more information on the January sew along😊

  • Linda LaMona
    Posted at 18:24h, 28 May Reply

    Yellow looks good on you and one my favorite colors, yet I hardly sew that color! Gorgeous dress and hope the wedding event went well!

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